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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

6 Channel TPA3116 + DSP
6 Channel TPA3116 + DSP
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Old 24th October 2019, 03:07 AM   #21
digitaled is offline digitaled
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The main reason here for that is pricing. The AV receivers are too expensive.

Maybe there are some less expensive that I dont know of. Can you give a list of some reasonable prices AV receivers.




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Originally Posted by Turbowatch2 View Post
@diditaled
You take a Dolby 5.1 pre amp and put it in front of your 6-channel amp. Was that your question? But why build a 5.1 Dolby amp? There are AVR receiver out there...

@grahamgraham The diode only in the + (or, with a dual supply + and -) supply line, no diode with ground.
Yes, this diode thing is used with many D-amps. I think it is more a kind of idiot protection you need if you sell worldwide to people that do not have any basic education, like you expect them in most western country´s. I have worked with refugees and now have a different view at our (good) school system.
With D-amps it might even reduce the need to synchronize them.

@NMOS
look for PM
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Old 24th October 2019, 05:38 AM   #22
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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eBay? Used one?
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Old 24th October 2019, 08:53 AM   #23
digitaled is offline digitaled
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Ok 👍👍

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eBay? Used one?
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Old 28th October 2019, 12:26 AM   #24
Neil Davis is offline Neil Davis  United States
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6 Channel TPA3116 + DSP
Here is a mostly completed project with that board. It's a computer monitor stand, so it's intended for very near-field listening, with small (2-1/2") subs and PR's on either side. That amp has enough power to fill up a room--it's perfect with a stereo 3-way DSP board.
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Old 28th October 2019, 11:35 AM   #25
grahamgraham is offline grahamgraham  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Davis View Post
Here is a mostly completed project with that board. It's a computer monitor stand, so it's intended for very near-field listening, with small (2-1/2") subs and PR's on either side. That amp has enough power to fill up a room--it's perfect with a stereo 3-way DSP board.
Nice build! I would like to make something almost exactly like that with the birch ply I will be using for the speakers.

Do you have any issues with noise? What do you do about grounding and safety with regards to the power supply?

I would like to have a go at that 3 way board but I am an SMD novice.
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Old 28th October 2019, 12:01 PM   #26
grahamgraham is offline grahamgraham  United Kingdom
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As the parts for this build start to come in from the East et al, I am starting to think about how to go about things.


In previous builds where I have used balanced inputs to the chip via a 1uf cap. I then soldered flying leads to the cap on the board. This was a pain in the neck as they aren't easily soldered/resoldered.

So, my plan is solder cables to the +&- of the board inputs and run these to a prototype board daughter board where I can use through-hole caps and connect/disconnect with ease.


Two questions regarding this:


1. I can't see any issues with doing this, can anybody else?


2. What caps do I need to use for optimal performance? From what I have read MKP film seems the best choice?

So many here, but which?
Polypropylene Film Capacitors | RS Components

Do they all pretty much perform the same?
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Old 28th October 2019, 04:24 PM   #27
Neil Davis is offline Neil Davis  United States
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6 Channel TPA3116 + DSP
Regarding noise:

1) I'm still working on grounding issues. I got a surprise by using those heat pipes to bring the heat out to the back panel and found out the heatsinks are connected to the circuit ground. I had lots of buzzing until I connected the back panel to the power cord safety ground, but now there is lots of hum whenever the amp is connected to a computer. I can make that go away by transformer-isolating the input, but I don't like that solution, so I'm still thinking about how I want to finalize the grounds.

2) The amp itself is somewhat noisy ("hiss") because the gain is set too high. I haven't looked at how the gain is configured, but I think the gain-setting resistors are under the heatsink and I don't feel like taking this thing apart right now. I bought another amp to see how the gain is set, but it won't come in for another 3 weeks or so. The gain is so high that a computer can easily overdrive the input, so I want to change the gain. Reducing the gain should lower the noise.

3) I'm not sure what you mean by "+&- of the board inputs". The board input connector only has 6 "+" inputs and one "-" connector on the original version of the board (with two bulk capacitors). The newer version of the board (with one bulk capacitor) uses a longer connector, but it still doesn't have the separate "-" inputs you need for balanced input. But you should be able to remove some of those 1uF electrolytic caps that connect the "-" input to ground, and that would give you some pads to connect to. I don't know whether using balanced inputs would make it easier to avoid shared ground problems, but it might...
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Old 28th October 2019, 05:04 PM   #28
grahamgraham is offline grahamgraham  United Kingdom
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Neil, perhaps I should have explained a little more explicitly.

Instead of using the single ended inputs provided I will remove the heatsink and fish out the differential/balanced input traces. Then, remove the coupling capacitors on both positive and negative inputs and solder in two flying leads for each channel that I will bring to a daughter board. This is where I will have the coupling caps which can be swapped out without me risking damaging the pads on the board every time I solder.

The balanced signals from the DSP board will not require a ground.

Yeah, I expected this board to have its gain set way too high so I will bring them all down to 20db with some surface mount resistors I have.

This combined with the balanced input should keep noise issues to a minimum.

I'm a little concerned about safety and wooden amp boxes. I thought perhaps a wooden frame with aluminium top and bottom.
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Old 28th October 2019, 06:39 PM   #29
Neil Davis is offline Neil Davis  United States
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6 Channel TPA3116 + DSP
I don't think you will need to remove the heatsink. Just remove all of those 1uF electrolytic capacitors and use the capacitor holes to make the connections to the daughter board.

It's usually not wise to comment on safety, but my experience is that once you convert to DC in a properly isolated and grounded power supply, the safety concerns are mostly eliminated. However, it's good to have some aluminum plate, foil or thin sheet metal close to the amp, connected to safety ground, as it there is a *lot* of radiated noise from this amp. I'm using 24V, which results in enough noise and heat that a metal mounting plate made sense.
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Old 29th October 2019, 01:23 PM   #30
grahamgraham is offline grahamgraham  United Kingdom
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Would someone mind helping me select input coupling 1uf capacitors, please? I am really confused now. I don't want to spend a fortune.

Do I want polypropylene, polyester?

What ESR is acceptable?

AC or DC?

Voltage rating?

Good grief.

Last edited by grahamgraham; 29th October 2019 at 01:25 PM.
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