Hi! To Calculate the Enclosure Dimensions just use a Vented Box Calculator... liek this maybe? Check...: Loudspeaker enclosure calculating with Thiele Small parameter
Use the Eminence APT-80 tweeter, put a 6uF capacitor on the tweeter and a 0.18mH inductor on the woofers (which you wire in parallel). That's 1st order at 3.5KHz, this is perfectly adequate for a battery powered amp, and is going to sound excellent, but keep in mind if you ever going to use a bigger mains powered amp you and turn it up, you will blow the tweeter.
You can not design a x-over without first measuring the finished cabinet, as response and radiaton depend on it. If you ignore this, the result will, at best, be a combination that does not burn the tweeter. An electrical x-over has nothing to do with an acoustical one.
If you are at a point of doing a decent, well sounding x-over, you will soon realize, it is much cheaper and more easy to just wire up a second amp and a DSP instead of buying heaps of capacitors, coils and resistors.
There are very few people that are able to do a passive x-over, while anyone with basic electric- acoustical knowledge and a microphone can combine two chassis with a DSP.
For newbies it is hard to believe, but the "complicated DSP" is much simpler than any passive combination.
If you are at a point of doing a decent, well sounding x-over, you will soon realize, it is much cheaper and more easy to just wire up a second amp and a DSP instead of buying heaps of capacitors, coils and resistors.
There are very few people that are able to do a passive x-over, while anyone with basic electric- acoustical knowledge and a microphone can combine two chassis with a DSP.
For newbies it is hard to believe, but the "complicated DSP" is much simpler than any passive combination.
Did you read the original post?? He wants a 2way using two 10"woofers, in mono. This is not intended for critical listening, this is for banging it out, I wouldn't do it, but to each their own.
He doesn't even know how to calculate a crossover filter, and you want him to measure driver response in box as if it was the most trivial thing in the world, besides the fact that at the crossover frequency the cabinet doesn't really do much to the FR.
And then on top you suggest getting a dsp and two amps. I'm sorry but I don't think your advice is helpful.
Hi horst303, basically, we perfectly agree.
To do something well designed and well sounding, you do not just "bang" something together. You need skill and some knowledge. To communicate this can not be totally wrong. He is going to spent quite some money and will get nothing out of it, but a frustrating experience if he goes passive.
Maybe you missed he plans on some good, expensive drivers?
So he expects something better than just loud noise, i suppose.
This forum is called "do it your self audio", not "DIYS music noise converters".
Banging something together is DIYS noise.
If you tell people how to do something right, maybe they get interested. If not, they are better off to buy some finished, cheap parts and screw together their "Boominator" in half an hour, instead of wasting time and money.
2-way active is quite do able, needs only a few wires. A measuring software is free and a microphone cheap.
A passive x-over can only be made by an expert...
Maybe you do not know you can NOT calculate any passive x-over for a dynamic speaker? Even as it might seem simple, using some theoretic formula, which never works in practice?
So if you want to do something worth the money and effort, the active way is way much better.
Today kids find it much easier to work with software than the elder generation.
He was able to use a speaker simulation, so he sure can do the same with a software for measuring and finally tweak some filters of a simple DSP software.
The point some have not realized, today active is cheaper than passive x-over´s.
I have about 50kg parts for passive x-overs and I hardly use them any more. Not worth the time.
So why should I lie to someone in telling him, he could build something good sounding from excellent P-Audio drivers and a simple capacitor?
To do something well designed and well sounding, you do not just "bang" something together. You need skill and some knowledge. To communicate this can not be totally wrong. He is going to spent quite some money and will get nothing out of it, but a frustrating experience if he goes passive.
Maybe you missed he plans on some good, expensive drivers?
So he expects something better than just loud noise, i suppose.
This forum is called "do it your self audio", not "DIYS music noise converters".
Banging something together is DIYS noise.
If you tell people how to do something right, maybe they get interested. If not, they are better off to buy some finished, cheap parts and screw together their "Boominator" in half an hour, instead of wasting time and money.
2-way active is quite do able, needs only a few wires. A measuring software is free and a microphone cheap.
A passive x-over can only be made by an expert...
Maybe you do not know you can NOT calculate any passive x-over for a dynamic speaker? Even as it might seem simple, using some theoretic formula, which never works in practice?
So if you want to do something worth the money and effort, the active way is way much better.
Today kids find it much easier to work with software than the elder generation.
He was able to use a speaker simulation, so he sure can do the same with a software for measuring and finally tweak some filters of a simple DSP software.
The point some have not realized, today active is cheaper than passive x-over´s.
I have about 50kg parts for passive x-overs and I hardly use them any more. Not worth the time.
So why should I lie to someone in telling him, he could build something good sounding from excellent P-Audio drivers and a simple capacitor?
Thank you for your help. I´ll use a DSP miniDSP 2x4 Kit Digital Signal Processor Assembled Board , Im studying electronics but the world of sound is so big for me so i need a little help with the design, my idea is to make a loud speaker with good bass for techno music. Sorry for my bad english.
keep in mind that you need two amps and probably a minimum of 200mA, which will be 3 times more than using just one amp, the minidsp will draw at least 75mA, in real world listening this will essentially half your battery time.
Although I would make a stereo deck ( because I remember hearing very fine 'tricks' in techno productions, such as the french artist Vitalic), having a stereo amplifier allows for some experiments
1) instead of a tweeter, a fullrange driver
2a) the inputs of the amplifiers could be joined and channel A for woofer and ch B for fullrange, values of coils&caps to be chosen for arranging LP and HP
2b) the inputs are feed from RC/CR LP-HP
2c) a mix of 2a and 2b, limiting BW to each speaker before and after the amplifier
1) instead of a tweeter, a fullrange driver
2a) the inputs of the amplifiers could be joined and channel A for woofer and ch B for fullrange, values of coils&caps to be chosen for arranging LP and HP
2b) the inputs are feed from RC/CR LP-HP
2c) a mix of 2a and 2b, limiting BW to each speaker before and after the amplifier
I wouldn't negate it firmly, not at all. It requires skills that are gained trough experience, and it's supposed that you know what is placed before ( amplifier) and after ( speakers) the X-O.
A full range driver would sound like a tortured cat trying to keep up with a HP-10W, never mind two.
I prefer a 2-way speaker design to get better sound, should i order the two woofers and the APT:80 - Supertweeters | Eminence Speaker ? it will be enough Highs for the two woofers?
I've decided to use Three xpl woofers instead of p-Audio hp10w because the have more SPL and are 4 ohm Woofer 10" XPL XW10-03 and i think that only one eminence apt150 would be little, what do you think?
I think I can use three wofers because im going to use 4 litlle amps and a DSP to get the biggest SPL possible, one mono amp for each driver.
And I know that they have Fs of 80Hz but in the first post of the Boominator Saturnus said "Trying to go belong 100 Hz in free-field is nonsense if you keep the other design parameters in mind. It's better to have a good middle bass performance to compensate for the lack of real sub-bass."
Hi, my approach is always good sound quality first. SPL comes by it self, if you use the right drivers. The small horn is a compromise, just as the speakers are. So you have to use quite good woofer to have them perform at a very high frequency.
If you use a DSP, you can have very steep low and high cuts. Which makes it possible to max out the horn performance wise. If you want to use 3 woofer, you have to go 3-way. One woofer serves as a mid speaker too, while the others will just give lower bass.
If all 3 woofer perform in the same frequency range, some frequency will cancel out, giving strange results you can NOT correct with equalizing.
If you just want a loud noise making device, you will be better of to buy it ready made, as the industry knows better than you how to combine the cheapest parts.
The only sense in DIYS is to take carefully selected stuff and put it together right, to get a result that is much better than same price industry stuff.
If you use a DSP, you can have very steep low and high cuts. Which makes it possible to max out the horn performance wise. If you want to use 3 woofer, you have to go 3-way. One woofer serves as a mid speaker too, while the others will just give lower bass.
If all 3 woofer perform in the same frequency range, some frequency will cancel out, giving strange results you can NOT correct with equalizing.
If you just want a loud noise making device, you will be better of to buy it ready made, as the industry knows better than you how to combine the cheapest parts.
The only sense in DIYS is to take carefully selected stuff and put it together right, to get a result that is much better than same price industry stuff.
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