Hi XRK971,
Does that PSU have a fan?
Currently i have a Meanwell 48V 600W PSU- very loud fan that i hve disconnected and use with the top cover off - ceiling fan or aircon on - and it works fine.
I need another PSU and like your comments on this one from AliExpress
What is Noctua?
Thanks
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"Noctua" or "Arctic" are brands that have specialized in low noise fan´s.
Such a fan as exchange for the cheap stock one, maybe with a voltage regulator, keeps air flowing and noise inaudible.
These are standard modification for amps or power supplies that are used in Hifi (living room) audio, if the stock unit is over sized or unregulated.
Such a fan as exchange for the cheap stock one, maybe with a voltage regulator, keeps air flowing and noise inaudible.
These are standard modification for amps or power supplies that are used in Hifi (living room) audio, if the stock unit is over sized or unregulated.
You can try to pickup one of the Icepower 125ASX2 modules from AliExpress (or for about $75 more, an enclosed amp). It is the amp inside the Yamaha WXA-50, which tested extremely well on ASR:
Review and Measurements of Yamaha WXA-50 Streaming Amp | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Review and Measurements of Yamaha WXA-50 Streaming Amp | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
The bundled power adaptor of FX502Spro 4A@24V (i doubt it can give 96W) and that voltage is a joke, would be surprise if it can gives 40W audio without clipping.
I remembering using a meanwell LR150-36 150W voltage adjusted to @32V which gives abt 4.5A supply to FX502Spro. Btw no one with sensible mind would drive at a continuous 80wx2 (heatsink & distortion level need to be considered), that was intended transient peak-music energy.
Sometime back, did a quick survey:-
Amplifier for indoor audio music, would only around 10-20W of pure clean power. Even when factor in a good margin, 50W would be overkill.
Someone yet to give me any understanding when is 100w needed for indoors.
I would consider that only for outdoor purpose.
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50 watt woudm't be overkill i have speaker measured to be 85 db where some say 88db is in the low end.
Having more power then you need makes sense in that way that you want more power then you need, to make shure the music your playing always sounds clean and controlled when playing loud, not to play excessive loud.
Added power could also give better control
That's like having 400 horse power instead of 100, just becuase you can go alot faster with 400 horsepower doesn't mean you should,if for some reason you need to, you can, having that kind of power just makes it easier to go fast without using the engine to it's limited.
If possible i also want better sound.
Forestgump try reading this thread (25 pages long) and see if it makes any sense to you
How much amplifier power do I REALLY need? | The Harbeth User Group: The shortest journey to the most realistic sound
Having more power then you need makes sense in that way that you want more power then you need, to make shure the music your playing always sounds clean and controlled when playing loud, not to play excessive loud.
Added power could also give better control
That's like having 400 horse power instead of 100, just becuase you can go alot faster with 400 horsepower doesn't mean you should,if for some reason you need to, you can, having that kind of power just makes it easier to go fast without using the engine to it's limited.
If possible i also want better sound.
Forestgump try reading this thread (25 pages long) and see if it makes any sense to you
How much amplifier power do I REALLY need? | The Harbeth User Group: The shortest journey to the most realistic sound
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A while ago a friend of mine bought such a small 2x50 Watt amp he raved about. He took it to my place and we connected it to a pair of small 2-way´s. The sound was fine, showed details, everything clean and tidy, tight bass, fast and well controlled. Nice to hear music with.
At some kind of level, higher than for basic listening, it started to sound some how un-clean. He pointed out that the speakers where at their limit.
Then we took a pair of mono amp´s that where a bit over sized in the power supply (600W each) rated at 400W rms.
First my fried looked a bit surprised, then he said, "OK, nice trick, where is the sub woofer?" The sound pressure could be pushed much higher, while the positve aspects of the small amp were still there.
IMO small, clean mini amps are fine, as most people do not listen very loud and firm bass leads to trouble with neighbours. So what is the need for strong amps? Maybe, as long as you do not know the difference, you will miss nothing.
Class A sometimes has the same effect, a much more relaxed, easy and effortless sound with great control.
At some kind of level, higher than for basic listening, it started to sound some how un-clean. He pointed out that the speakers where at their limit.
Then we took a pair of mono amp´s that where a bit over sized in the power supply (600W each) rated at 400W rms.
First my fried looked a bit surprised, then he said, "OK, nice trick, where is the sub woofer?" The sound pressure could be pushed much higher, while the positve aspects of the small amp were still there.
IMO small, clean mini amps are fine, as most people do not listen very loud and firm bass leads to trouble with neighbours. So what is the need for strong amps? Maybe, as long as you do not know the difference, you will miss nothing.
Class A sometimes has the same effect, a much more relaxed, easy and effortless sound with great control.
When i upgrade i try to not just upgrade one thing like sound quality (which is my main reason to upgrade), second is more power, i don't often play loud but when i do it's fantastic having alot of clean power.
Have tried playing really loud and when i just for the fun of it turn the bass up on some electronic music, i wouldn't mind a bit more power, not something extreme, just about double the wattage.
The amp cost with free delivery 40 euros, the same with the preamp, better speaker cable better sound quality (those i had later turned out to be quiet bright sounding), tube preamp better sound, better tubes again better sound and finally using my older hifime usb soundcard and qed graphite perormance interconnect gave my further improvements in the highs as i got from my tube preamp.
I think my amp,preamp sounds amazing for the money, so much i want more, my amp,preamp each cost only 40 euro, if i can get much better sound for only 60-70 euros, im upgrading my amp.
More power would be a very nice bonus
Have tried playing really loud and when i just for the fun of it turn the bass up on some electronic music, i wouldn't mind a bit more power, not something extreme, just about double the wattage.
The amp cost with free delivery 40 euros, the same with the preamp, better speaker cable better sound quality (those i had later turned out to be quiet bright sounding), tube preamp better sound, better tubes again better sound and finally using my older hifime usb soundcard and qed graphite perormance interconnect gave my further improvements in the highs as i got from my tube preamp.
I think my amp,preamp sounds amazing for the money, so much i want more, my amp,preamp each cost only 40 euro, if i can get much better sound for only 60-70 euros, im upgrading my amp.
More power would be a very nice bonus
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I got an 800w smps so that when I disconnected the fan, it can run at 100w and not even get warm as built in passive heatsink effect of the chassis.
A Noctua fan replacement can work if you want to get 400w output. That’s 40w excess get for a 90% efficient smps.
A 100w amp is needed for some speakers that are not efficient. My FAST 10F/RS225 are only 82dB/1watt due to bass falloff from 87dB nominal efficiency. The extra headroom allows speakers to hit mid range crescendos effortlessly. Also, bass kick drums sound accurate and powerful.
yep, beg your pardon missed out the start pt. is 8 ohm @85dB spkrs, this really hurts; my comment was mean not for yester-years spkr.
Am using on 6ohm @86dB spkrs , as long as I use a decent sufficient power supply. Maybe can consider ample supply on power source, thought i was on meanwell 350W built-in active fan, found it overkill, it was a noise generator & quite a brick - so downsize to 150W fanless which is still way able to bring down the house.
Of-course if you dont mind huge power amps & large power blocks in your indoor, by all means!
Am using on 6ohm @86dB spkrs , as long as I use a decent sufficient power supply. Maybe can consider ample supply on power source, thought i was on meanwell 350W built-in active fan, found it overkill, it was a noise generator & quite a brick - so downsize to 150W fanless which is still way able to bring down the house.
Of-course if you dont mind huge power amps & large power blocks in your indoor, by all means!
@forestgump
Your power demand for the same amp driven with the same voltage depends very much on the construction of the power supply (capacitors store energy) and the music program you run.
While some music may be happy with 20 watt, some electronic music will need 20 times that much at the same speakers and identical level.
An amp may be able to deliver clean 400 watt peaks, while the constant power output of it´s supply is only 150 watt. If you give it a 500W supply, it will not sound worse, with the most demanding program, even if peak power is not any higher.
So there is no final right or wrong in this question.
Some misunderstanding may come from technical differences. A SMPS in overload will just shut down after half a second. A simple transformer supply in overload will give a lower voltage and get hotter, but play on until it burns out. Lower voltage means less headroom for the amp. Here, an over sized transformer has real advantages. That´s the explanation why old PA amp´s are so damm heavy.
In DIYS where with today´s SMPS, power is cheap and over sized supply´s do not have higher consumption than smaller ones, so why should you lean to the weak side?
Compare the price of a simple, 120W and 240W SMPS, you get twice the power for 3$ more. So why not give a 2x100W amp a 240W supply, even as it would work just fine with 120W?
In the past, where we used heavy, expensive transformers, you could save a lot of weight and money. OK, that´s over now.
Your power demand for the same amp driven with the same voltage depends very much on the construction of the power supply (capacitors store energy) and the music program you run.
While some music may be happy with 20 watt, some electronic music will need 20 times that much at the same speakers and identical level.
An amp may be able to deliver clean 400 watt peaks, while the constant power output of it´s supply is only 150 watt. If you give it a 500W supply, it will not sound worse, with the most demanding program, even if peak power is not any higher.
So there is no final right or wrong in this question.
Some misunderstanding may come from technical differences. A SMPS in overload will just shut down after half a second. A simple transformer supply in overload will give a lower voltage and get hotter, but play on until it burns out. Lower voltage means less headroom for the amp. Here, an over sized transformer has real advantages. That´s the explanation why old PA amp´s are so damm heavy.
In DIYS where with today´s SMPS, power is cheap and over sized supply´s do not have higher consumption than smaller ones, so why should you lean to the weak side?
Compare the price of a simple, 120W and 240W SMPS, you get twice the power for 3$ more. So why not give a 2x100W amp a 240W supply, even as it would work just fine with 120W?
In the past, where we used heavy, expensive transformers, you could save a lot of weight and money. OK, that´s over now.
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Why? well as mentioned... i guess loved both elegant music & elegant appearance.
Anyway thanks pointing out SMPS in overload will just shut down after half a second, GOOD - now dont even worry about the remote possibility of under current - it will shutdown without any damage.
As I know you like plug'n'play ready to go solutions, here's a pre-built 7498E, under your budget:
FX-AUDIO FX1002A TDA7498E Class D Amplifier 2x100W / 4 Ohm Black - Audiophonics
Sparkle? I suppose that could depend on the plug in and switch on sequence.
Are you sure it was a review the E version that got hot? The standard 7498 can suffer if the supply voltage and speaker impedance are not the right combination.
Your posts seem to be going the same way as they did on Audiokarma, in that you ask lots of questions, receive some good advice, then you diss the answers and end up doing nothing...
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