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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#21 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: London
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Quote:
Sorry to thread hijack but this has some interesting info on it.... I am looking at the 3e audio tpa3251 4x 100wpc. What power supply would you reccomend and what would the effect if underpowering with a lower wattage psu be other than reduced output? This psu looks good: £38.78 | 400W 24V/15.5A 12V/2A Mini Digital Power Amplifier Switching Power Supply With PFC For Amplifier AliExpress |
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#22 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: London
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Quote:
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#23 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
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Quote:
The TPA3251 chip can operate down to 12V so 24V is fine for the chip. The 3E-board is recommended to operate with a supply voltage in the range 24-32V, thus 24V should be fine. Only the output power should change (reduce) with less supply voltage, not the SQ. SQ with Class D amplifiers is less supply voltage dependent than for class AB. A clear advantage with less supply voltage is that the heatsink becomes less warm. |
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#24 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northern germany
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You must be aware that you loose headroom, if you use less voltage than optimal for any amp. This might compress the sound even at moderate levels, if the music has high dynamics.
Even very small high quality speaker, today can take very high bursts, which makes them sound so amazing. I write "high quality", because we are in a DIYS forum and many build their speakers, too. So if you have a pair of small Scan Speak, Seas or Peerless etc. based speakers, you might be right to use a high power amp on it. I never found any disadvantage by using amps that are 5 times stronger than the speakers are rated. This question is asked very often, because people want to use something as a power supply, that is already in their possession. So, yes, you can use a mismatched power supply, if it has less volt than possible with the amp, but do not expect the optimum result. For a first test, this maybe OK, but if you are disappointed, donīt blame the amp module. |
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#25 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: London
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Interesting, thanks for the reply. I suppose what I don't understand is what wattage the PSU needs to be in order for the TPA3252/TPA3255 to function and best capacity. What is most presumably obvious is that it needs to have more watts than the amp power output?
For instance, Kjaerlarsen has picked a wattage higher than the amp output. Is this because the amp is not 100% efficient? |
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#26 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Somewhere in Jutland
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Quote:
I chose the size of the power supply based on the maximum power the amp can deliver in 4 ohms, it may be overkill, but the price difference was very small. Also, I chose voltage in the upper range of the amps working limits, which should ensure that no headroom is lost. I do hope I got it right, only time will tell. ![]() |
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#27 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Johannesburg
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Quote:
1. Overload protection and there are 3 types. Some PSU's make smooth transition from voltage regulation to current limiting, this one is the best for you. The other one will temporary pause conversion and restore operation after removing a cause. You will definitely notice it when happens. The third type will permanently lock-up PSU output. You will have to complete power cycle to restore operation. 2. Working on the limits increase PSU noise, as rectifiers works harder there are bigger requirements for the size of capacitors in the output filter. In addition, the best PSU (see #1) has apparently the poorest noise parameters on the maximum load, so it is not a good idea to depend on the current limiting feature anyway. |
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#28 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
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Quote:
What you sometimes see mentioned as the "crest factor of music" allows us to use a power supply with less power (down to half) than calculated above. Using the calculation above and stepping up in size to the next standard power value of the power supply is safe play. Last edited by FauxFrench; 18th October 2019 at 12:24 PM. |
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#29 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
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Many have praised the class d boards by ljm, they are based on iraud amplifier, there are several threads here on topic, and they are dirt cheap, then u can spend more money on a good psu and chassis
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#30 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northern germany
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The type of power supply is indeed the cause for the different answers to this "simple" question, if you ask different people.
There are parts even with good DIYS, where you can not find the perfect single solution. Example one: I want to use low cost stuff. I buy at Alibaba, eBay or Amazon. The amp module has been used by others and found to be OK. The amp should put out itīs maximum power of 160 W for a small sub woofer for a home cinema. It may run with constant high load and distortion sometimes, which is no problem with very low frequency. I buy a no name OEM supply, rated at 240W, to feed my 36V amp. This takes into account, that the Chinese producer of the PS is rating it very optimistic, the amps 90% efficiency and the possible lowest load a 4 ohm rated woofer may have. Seen from this perspective, 1/3 or 50% of of a reserve seems to give some peace of mind. 2. Example: I want a high quality amp for my Dadīs floor standers. It may cost a little more. He usually listens low volume, just sometimes likes an opera loud. I take a good 2x 140 amp module from a reputable constructor/ seller, use the recommended power supply of 200 W and will be fine. Even as I only have 2/3rd or 65% of the amps nominal output power, the PS will have enough reserve to play some peakīs that may be in the music sometimes. Both amps do nothing wrong, one with 65% PS, the other with 150% theoretical power. |
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