Solder it out or take only the wires leading to it. You replace it by the slider, which is a pot as well. So the slider is digitalized, the value compared to the table you gave the DSP and the volume set in the digital domain. This way you loose no digital resolution and have no nearly 50 years old pot in the signals way, distorting the sound.
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Solder it out or set it once, if the power amp has a pot.
The gain of the amp behind the DSP should be matched to the max. output voltage of the DSP.
In the end, if you put the B&O volume at 100% this should be maximum output of the amp. Maybe the max. level you ever want to hear, if you are sure that will be enough.
The gain of the amp behind the DSP should be matched to the max. output voltage of the DSP.
In the end, if you put the B&O volume at 100% this should be maximum output of the amp. Maybe the max. level you ever want to hear, if you are sure that will be enough.
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Another question.. I have seen that some people have used the DSP for RIAA equalisation. So can it replace the preamp entirely by coupling it to the phono switch to activate that mode? I don't know if it would provide the amplification also. My TT is a Pioneer PL-S40 that the manual says is MC. However, it seems to work best in MM mode on the Little bear.. which I suspect is actually the MC circuit which they have labelled incorrectly. The 'MC' circuit has a lot of pops and whistles, so I think it may be faulty.
Thanks
Thanks
Yes, it can be done, I´m sure, but this would require some linear amplification first, as the MC signal is to weak to enter the DSP directly. Also, it might use a lot of the DSP´s limited CPU power and memory.
I may be wrong, but I see no advantage over a hardware solution.
The Little Bear should be a good phono -pre, so maybe have a look inside, what may be wrong.
The MC input is a very sensitive amp, it may be upset by the smallest problem. This is why putting it into the player is such a good idea.
Have a look what the cartridge with the needle is called and look for a manual. There are high output MC, which run better at a MM input. These distort at a "real" MC input.
I may be wrong, but I see no advantage over a hardware solution.
The Little Bear should be a good phono -pre, so maybe have a look inside, what may be wrong.
The MC input is a very sensitive amp, it may be upset by the smallest problem. This is why putting it into the player is such a good idea.
Have a look what the cartridge with the needle is called and look for a manual. There are high output MC, which run better at a MM input. These distort at a "real" MC input.
Hi,
I have most of my parts now. I have the DSP and a 3116 two chip amp:
150W TPA3116 D2 Dual channel Stereo High Power Digital Audio Power Amplifier Board with TL074C OPAMP-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I can see the input caps for the balanced input which on this board look like they are connected to the single input via an op-amp. So do I just unsolder the opamp side of the caps and feed +/- balanced input through the caps? I have seen other balanced input mods where the -ve input has a cap to ground. Do I need to do this, because the data sheet, fig37 http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf does not show it.
Also, what do I do with the DSP ground output for each channel? It has three outputs for each channel: +ve, -ve and gnd. Do I just connect L and R grounds to the common ground of the amp (pin 1)?
Thanks, Theo
I have most of my parts now. I have the DSP and a 3116 two chip amp:
150W TPA3116 D2 Dual channel Stereo High Power Digital Audio Power Amplifier Board with TL074C OPAMP-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I can see the input caps for the balanced input which on this board look like they are connected to the single input via an op-amp. So do I just unsolder the opamp side of the caps and feed +/- balanced input through the caps? I have seen other balanced input mods where the -ve input has a cap to ground. Do I need to do this, because the data sheet, fig37 http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf does not show it.
Also, what do I do with the DSP ground output for each channel? It has three outputs for each channel: +ve, -ve and gnd. Do I just connect L and R grounds to the common ground of the amp (pin 1)?
Thanks, Theo
Also, I have just realised that the DSP did not come with the USB interface so there is no way to program it. Any ideas?
I have messaged the seller but no reply. Looking at SigmaDSP studio it also looks a bit beyond me without any simple guides online that I can find... I may have to go with a simple analog tone preamp that I also bought, which is very dissappointing.
I have messaged the seller but no reply. Looking at SigmaDSP studio it also looks a bit beyond me without any simple guides online that I can find... I may have to go with a simple analog tone preamp that I also bought, which is very dissappointing.
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You have to get some interface to run Sigma studio and load other options. No way around that.
The cheap interface from eBay or Amazon works well, if you reprogram it, as described.
Popular product EZ-USB FX2LP Cypress CY7C68013A USB2.0 Developement Board | eBay
Prices are different, product always the same.
The cheap interface from eBay or Amazon works well, if you reprogram it, as described.
Popular product EZ-USB FX2LP Cypress CY7C68013A USB2.0 Developement Board | eBay
Prices are different, product always the same.
Yes, I just ordered one. Reading this post [freeDSP / freeUSBi] help sought for electronics newbie it looks like it might not be straightforward, but I will persevere. 
Eventually I want the DSP to ouput to two separate amps, for the A and B channels. One will be set up for music, the other for movies.
Eventually I want the DSP to ouput to two separate amps, for the A and B channels. One will be set up for music, the other for movies.
please read here, post 42-
this description worked for the cheapest programmer $3.80 inc. P&P even with the newer software.
low cost USBi programmer using cypress CY7C68013A board
this description worked for the cheapest programmer $3.80 inc. P&P even with the newer software.
low cost USBi programmer using cypress CY7C68013A board
Ok, I think programming this DSP is beyond me. The main LED on the board does not come on now, and cannot reprogram to the original crossover so something is wrong. Turbowatch, have you got yours to work? The vendor will not reply and they have very little documentation, I am beginning to realise why it is so cheap..
Thanks, but I have the board that turbowatch mentioned on order. Setting up the RPi will take days I don't have. I just hope that with the programming board I can bring it back to life. The LED does not light now, even though the arduino recognises the eprom. So I'm hoping the LED doesn't light because it has no program now, somehow the arduino just flashed it. If it doesn't work then its just $50 in the trash
. The worst thing with this board has been the replies from 3-e audio, along the lines of 'you are too stupid to use it', and 'no, we won't send you any examples or advice.'
I have the cheapest programmer (and a logic analyzer) that I first reprogrammed to work with Sigma Studio. Works fine and did what I wanted to the 3e-board.
If you have not got it working with SS as described, there is no way to program anything. Do not connect it to the DSP, you can do nothing with it.
I have not used the DSP in my final installation, as it is part of a larger project and hobby time has it´s limits.
Yes, it is not expensive, because you have to do some extra work, but this extra work makes it so universal. If you only want a DSP for equalizing or an x-over, you can get the same DSP with a program as a finished unit. The disadvantage is, you can not reprogram it for other functions.
So you got a flexible product, which makes it very useful, but on the other hand, many options make it more complicated.
I told you that it will need some time to learn how to use it. The thread about SS here in the forum is very detailed and correct if you follow it step by step.
As I do not have your individual parts, maybe something is not working on your´s, but the product in general is fine and well designed, as far as one can expect from such a thing today.
I´m sorry you did not get the programmer (it was missing in your order, if I remember right?), as this would make things much simpler for you.
I can not say anything about using Arduino with Sigma Studio, this was to complicated and confusing for me.
I use WIN 7 -64, the cheap 5$ programmer and Sigma Studio. This is the way it is advised by the manufacturer of the the ADAU1701 DSP. I will not try to work around this.
If you load one of the basic files for the DSP in SS, you can modify them for your needs.
Sigma Studio has anything I could ever think of and even more.
If you have not got it working with SS as described, there is no way to program anything. Do not connect it to the DSP, you can do nothing with it.
I have not used the DSP in my final installation, as it is part of a larger project and hobby time has it´s limits.
Yes, it is not expensive, because you have to do some extra work, but this extra work makes it so universal. If you only want a DSP for equalizing or an x-over, you can get the same DSP with a program as a finished unit. The disadvantage is, you can not reprogram it for other functions.
So you got a flexible product, which makes it very useful, but on the other hand, many options make it more complicated.
I told you that it will need some time to learn how to use it. The thread about SS here in the forum is very detailed and correct if you follow it step by step.
As I do not have your individual parts, maybe something is not working on your´s, but the product in general is fine and well designed, as far as one can expect from such a thing today.
I´m sorry you did not get the programmer (it was missing in your order, if I remember right?), as this would make things much simpler for you.
I can not say anything about using Arduino with Sigma Studio, this was to complicated and confusing for me.
I use WIN 7 -64, the cheap 5$ programmer and Sigma Studio. This is the way it is advised by the manufacturer of the the ADAU1701 DSP. I will not try to work around this.
If you load one of the basic files for the DSP in SS, you can modify them for your needs.
Sigma Studio has anything I could ever think of and even more.
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