Hi guys. I recent ran an "experiment" which burnt out a long time reliable TPA3116 2.1 board. I was trying to:
-boost out put
-run 2 board simultaneous
Using a Behringer HA400 head phone amplifier. It did "work" in that I listened to around 20 bass heavy tracks at just below distorted volume on a number of occasions. But one day left tunes playing for 1 hour plus, and board overheated.
My question is if I replaced these toroidal things with bit of wire to test the board is functioning, is that good idea? What do the toroids do? Are they low pass filters of some sort? I have plenty of large toroids hanging around could I replace them with mismatched ones?
Or do think other things have likely been melted and I should just replace the whole board at cost of £7.50 (!). What is you gut feeling?
-boost out put
-run 2 board simultaneous
Using a Behringer HA400 head phone amplifier. It did "work" in that I listened to around 20 bass heavy tracks at just below distorted volume on a number of occasions. But one day left tunes playing for 1 hour plus, and board overheated.
My question is if I replaced these toroidal things with bit of wire to test the board is functioning, is that good idea? What do the toroids do? Are they low pass filters of some sort? I have plenty of large toroids hanging around could I replace them with mismatched ones?
Or do think other things have likely been melted and I should just replace the whole board at cost of £7.50 (!). What is you gut feeling?
At only GBP 7.50 one can't expect top state of the art quality 
. As always, you get what you pay for 
.
Inadequate LPF inductors are well known here as an issue with cheap Chinese TPA3255 boards. I suspect the ferrite rings in your board don't cope with the switching frequency, hence overheat.
Best regards!
. As always, you get what you pay for .Inadequate LPF inductors are well known here as an issue with cheap Chinese TPA3255 boards. I suspect the ferrite rings in your board don't cope with the switching frequency, hence overheat.
Best regards!
The number of turns is most important. You can rewind them with stronger, insulated copper wire or get some with about 5A and 10uH for the 2.0 channels and 7.5A 15uH for the sub channel. The type you have on the board is OK, there are more expensive ones, that may shield EMI better, but soundwise there is not much to gain if the ampere value is similar.
I´m not sure there was everything OK with your installation, as normaly there should not be that much energy heating up the coils. It´s ampere value = low resistance is to make them transparent for audio frequncy. Maybe you put an amperemeter in series with the supply and whatch how much current is used. It seems the oscillations the coil has to absorb are much to high.
I´m not sure there was everything OK with your installation, as normaly there should not be that much energy heating up the coils. It´s ampere value = low resistance is to make them transparent for audio frequncy. Maybe you put an amperemeter in series with the supply and whatch how much current is used. It seems the oscillations the coil has to absorb are much to high.
Definitely nothing to do with the wire, its perfectly adequate, the _cores_ are underrated and overheating due to magnetic hysteresis - I have this board too. Had to fix the wrong cap value (forget which thread alerted me to that, there's a 1nF that should be 1pF on the slave clock line.)
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