One comment on the LM317/337 regulator schematics here. They show 330 to 1000uF caps on the output of the regulator. The data sheet "typical application" shows a 1uF to "improve transient response". In my experience, they sound better with a good 1uF film cap on the output (RC 2R7 1uF in series for LM317 HV regulator as in LB-47 Maida) and adjust pin. I have tried it with various values of caps. This is in a tube amp, not sure about solid state. Any comments?
The LM317/337 need a 1uF film cap as near as possible at their outputs, larger caps will usually follow at the amplifier stages they power. Some designs combine the 1uF with a, maybe 100-330uF electrolytic, but never without the 1uF near the regulator IC. Good idea to solder it on the underside of the PCB directly at the regulator.
You should be able to see the effect with an oscilloscope, it really is important. The small cap reduces all kind of high frequency ripple on the voltage larger ones do not remove.
The voltage a behind a regulator, may it be 78xx or others, is by far not clean. The cheap regulators are not especially made for audio, most power something else, may it be a fan, controller or what ever. Many decently build audio products have Zehner diode / transistor regulators which behave much better if done right.
You should be able to see the effect with an oscilloscope, it really is important. The small cap reduces all kind of high frequency ripple on the voltage larger ones do not remove.
The voltage a behind a regulator, may it be 78xx or others, is by far not clean. The cheap regulators are not especially made for audio, most power something else, may it be a fan, controller or what ever. Many decently build audio products have Zehner diode / transistor regulators which behave much better if done right.
I think it would be fine, but it says "All needed Jumpers/cables/brass studs/screws are provided together" so does that mean it has the JST for the 125ASX2 on the other end? I think the signal JST for the 125ASX2 and 500ASP are the same, and probably the same for all the Icepower modules?. I don't like the JST connectors. Crimping requires an expensive tool. Haven't looked at it, but maybe you could solder directly below the JST to the PCB, or unsolder the JST..
Yes, I'd use it for stereo. Yes, the shielded one:
ghentaudio --- DIY Hifi Cable-Set for ICEpower 125ASX2/250ASX2 module
On the other hand I don't quite get what's so special about that cable, wouldn't it be the same if I'd cut 30 cm from any RCA interconnect?
ghentaudio --- DIY Hifi Cable-Set for ICEpower 125ASX2/250ASX2 module
On the other hand I don't quite get what's so special about that cable, wouldn't it be the same if I'd cut 30 cm from any RCA interconnect?
Pull the unused wires, with crimped connectors intact, from the unused JST slots. Gives you spares. Twist the two pairs of signal wires. Cut and solder. No need to buy the pro cable. The Pro is regular shielded RCA cable. There are various qualities of shielded signal wire. For the line level and short distance, twisted-pair is probably fine.
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Thanks for this and the previous post to this. Exactly what I was looking to do. I will need to get to examining this on the weekend. Have you done this on your own amps, and what were your findings? I am running a Triamped setup and want to use these for mids. Thanks again!
I have not done it yet. Haven't had time and waiting for parts for active balanced line driver. Plan to connect a balun I have first, and see how it sounds.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1RF...olid=3JBGPPHTKSQ2X&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Supposed to be a decent crimper for cheap.
Supposed to be a decent crimper for cheap.
I'm doing BTL with the NE5532 balanced line driver described in Elliott Sound website, with the 317/337 regulator with Maida output and adjust RCs on perfboard. Using 1000uF plus input caps with 3R0 series resistors to the +/- 24V 125ASX2 supply. The two 1uF film caps are fairly large, but from past experience with the 317, I think it sounds best that way, very sharp, precise but smooth. The bigger caps on the output make the regulation too slow to transients, and it sounds "fuzzy". If it doesn't work, the electrolytics would substitute in the space without a problem. Using a lot of 100nF multi ceramics to silicon supplies as recommended.
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