Hello, i have a t5630 it stopped working like 1-2 years ago,
Only does were shutdown , after like 9 hours of continious music a 80-90 percent of the volume on jbl 250w rms/1000w max so i doubt the jbl killed him or if it would i guess it would kill 1 the the second channel not all the amplifier in one time
Im more sure for the power part with the lm317 and the tl2575, i also see one inductor wich could be wrong but as i cant test it for the moment i dont really know at the multimeter it look working but i dont know if it shorted so i need to wait for the lcr meter to test it
If someone know what it could be
Thank you
Only does were shutdown , after like 9 hours of continious music a 80-90 percent of the volume on jbl 250w rms/1000w max so i doubt the jbl killed him or if it would i guess it would kill 1 the the second channel not all the amplifier in one time
Im more sure for the power part with the lm317 and the tl2575, i also see one inductor wich could be wrong but as i cant test it for the moment i dont really know at the multimeter it look working but i dont know if it shorted so i need to wait for the lcr meter to test it
If someone know what it could be
Thank you
Hi
As you couldn´t see any smoke its a good chance that something "easy" is broken
are your speakers ok? or your soeaker coil is shorted? please check..
if you got your multimeter
-check if your outputs are shorted without spekaers and no power on the amp
- check if you get a short between the output terminals and GND or V+
- check visually all caps/ components
- dismount the heatsink (right side of the pic) --> visal check thsi chip
do not power on before you check the points above
chris
As you couldn´t see any smoke its a good chance that something "easy" is broken
are your speakers ok? or your soeaker coil is shorted? please check..
if you got your multimeter
-check if your outputs are shorted without spekaers and no power on the amp
- check if you get a short between the output terminals and GND or V+
- check visually all caps/ components
- dismount the heatsink (right side of the pic) --> visal check thsi chip
do not power on before you check the points above
chris
Ok thank you but ever tryed to power afain but no result
Not even a circuit oline sign on my last try speaker was not even look like getting any power so might be the power, i was having a voltage drop if i remember good , also as it suddenly stopped without smoke for sure might be somethink on power line, i could guess the amp burn but both L and R amp in same time it look hard to imagine even if its possible.
As im not at home today i cant do more test now
For capacitor and all look ok at first view
Ill try to check voltage tomorow on power line
Not even a circuit oline sign on my last try speaker was not even look like getting any power so might be the power, i was having a voltage drop if i remember good , also as it suddenly stopped without smoke for sure might be somethink on power line, i could guess the amp burn but both L and R amp in same time it look hard to imagine even if its possible.
As im not at home today i cant do more test now
For capacitor and all look ok at first view
Ill try to check voltage tomorow on power line
Hi
so your impression is that your PSu is faulty?
nevertheless chekck with the DMM what happend at the PSU outputs.
this "inteligent chips" (TPA + TAS) could have many reasons they stop working or go into protection mode or mute. i personally do not know the TAS chips but its not a bad idea to go through the datasheet and "read/learn"
chris
so your impression is that your PSu is faulty?
nevertheless chekck with the DMM what happend at the PSU outputs.
this "inteligent chips" (TPA + TAS) could have many reasons they stop working or go into protection mode or mute. i personally do not know the TAS chips but its not a bad idea to go through the datasheet and "read/learn"
chris
Yeah, thats also why i didnt investigate into it when it burned, the circuit were looking complex
Also i was having a fan soits not even overheated
The only eye seen problem is those 1MH inductor wich was moving but even buy solder it its still not good, may be it overheated and burned wrong value of the inductor and its not working but i dont really know atm
Also i was having a fan soits not even overheated
The only eye seen problem is those 1MH inductor wich was moving but even buy solder it its still not good, may be it overheated and burned wrong value of the inductor and its not working but i dont really know atm
Hi,
If your AUX supply (12v) fail 90% chance your TAS5630 will die
no, i didnt unput 12v, just the pc output so i guess 500mv to 2v probably but my volume at 90% of the potentiometer, what would be the use of inputing 12v in an amp , i guess it would even saturate at 5v
no, i didnt unput 12v, just the pc output so i guess 500mv to 2v probably but my volume at 90% of the potentiometer, what would be the use of inputing 12v in an amp , i guess it would even saturate at 5v
No, AUX means auxiliary supply (VDD +12v provided to TAS5630 PIN-64)
Regards
MANOJ
Ha ok, no no they are a simple one input line of 50v, its an original part that i bought, i didnt made any change on it
Somethink like this buton ebay
Assembly Class D HIFI TAS5630 2.0 channel high power digital amplifier board 1200W-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I paid somethink like 60usd if i remember good, it was powered by a philips hifi power supply that was delivering 46-48v 6-7a arround so nothink that would push it at limit
So as it suddenly stopped without any smoke of bang sound, if i could repair it, it would be great and a worth repair board may be if its somethink on the power supply line
The lm317 worth somethink like 2 usd a lot of 5, the OPA1632DR worth 2 usd, the tl2575 7 usd for a 60 usd board if its repairable i would give a try if its not to much expensive, as the board wasnt too bad for my need it was doing the job,
Also i notice they are 2 amps on one power line
Thanks
Regards
Somethink like this buton ebay
Assembly Class D HIFI TAS5630 2.0 channel high power digital amplifier board 1200W-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I paid somethink like 60usd if i remember good, it was powered by a philips hifi power supply that was delivering 46-48v 6-7a arround so nothink that would push it at limit
So as it suddenly stopped without any smoke of bang sound, if i could repair it, it would be great and a worth repair board may be if its somethink on the power supply line
The lm317 worth somethink like 2 usd a lot of 5, the OPA1632DR worth 2 usd, the tl2575 7 usd for a 60 usd board if its repairable i would give a try if its not to much expensive, as the board wasnt too bad for my need it was doing the job,
Also i notice they are 2 amps on one power line
Thanks
Regards
auxiliary supply (VDD +12v provided to TAS5630 PIN-64)
TL2575HL used for this. (i think the coil bad)remove the coil and use drum coil 1mH or 500uH one with 2A capacity.
Regards
MANOJ
Hi,
drum coil through hole type. remove SMD coil and solder it on SMD pad and glue it.
Regards
MANOJ
Okok, i'm wating for a lcr meter actually also as i'm not sure that that i have the inductor so i need to check later
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Hello
I have a 3x TAS5630 amplifier which works. But after e few time power consumption rise up and every thing goes hot. Coils, heatsink are so hot i bruned my finger. Sound alway normal. Nothing changed. Only when I toke a look to the powerconsumption meter I saw power consumtopn increse from 15W to 115W.... No idea why...
I have a 3x TAS5630 amplifier which works. But after e few time power consumption rise up and every thing goes hot. Coils, heatsink are so hot i bruned my finger. Sound alway normal. Nothing changed. Only when I toke a look to the powerconsumption meter I saw power consumtopn increse from 15W to 115W.... No idea why...
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I had listen with this amp the hole morning. No problem. Speakers are all 4ohm.
At the beginning the amp and coil does not warm up. A few hours later I saw not about 15W but 60W and peak of 115W. Amp has no sound changes or something. Only consumes a lot more power and gets hot.
Its the amp of an Pionner VSX-S510. Is this a good implementation of TAS5630B?
At the beginning the amp and coil does not warm up. A few hours later I saw not about 15W but 60W and peak of 115W. Amp has no sound changes or something. Only consumes a lot more power and gets hot.
Its the amp of an Pionner VSX-S510. Is this a good implementation of TAS5630B?
Attachments
a bit later again.... Power consumption rise up. Not louder or anything.
Also no changement on audio quality and output... strange
so we have to look for a silent power "eater"
try to check the PSu Voltage during this phenomenon. The decoupling caps on the board are check???
So I mesured voltage. Nothing changed. Changement is, that when power increase some strange noises apears on the speaker... After waiting some time amp works normal again for a time.
YouTube
YouTube
YouTube
Here are 3 videos with IR, power consumption and voltage
Uploading videos are not possible directly?!?
YouTube
YouTube
YouTube
Here are 3 videos with IR, power consumption and voltage
Uploading videos are not possible directly?!?
So I mesured voltage. Nothing changed. Changement is, that when power increase some strange noises apears on the speaker... After waiting some time amp works normal again for a time.
YouTube
YouTube
YouTube
Here are 3 videos with IR, power consumption and voltage
Uploading videos are not possible directly?!?
hi Hans
I just guestimating - check al solder points and solder once again...caps are checked?
chris
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