I bought this amp from amazon and didn't notice it's problems until it was too late to return it.
Amazon.com: AOSHIKE TPA3116D2 2 Channels High Power Digital Audio Car Amplifier Board Support Storage Battery/Lithium Battery DC12V 150Wx2: Home Audio & Theater
I first had to fix the awful hiss caused by the input of the chip being set to as sensitive as possible.
Now after lots of testing suddenly it's making this god awful noise randomly. It happens with music playing, and silence and doesn't stop if I unhook the input or turn the trim knobs down all the way. I am afraid that if I leave the amp on it will ruin my speakers which I wasted too much time on. (long story don't ask).
I want to suspect the AM rejection is not set correctly. In my notes it looks like I confirmed that all 3 AM pins are tied to ground. Is that the correct setting for Central Florida USA?
Here is a video of the noise Shared album - Matt Battaglia - Google Photos
Amazon.com: AOSHIKE TPA3116D2 2 Channels High Power Digital Audio Car Amplifier Board Support Storage Battery/Lithium Battery DC12V 150Wx2: Home Audio & Theater
I first had to fix the awful hiss caused by the input of the chip being set to as sensitive as possible.
Now after lots of testing suddenly it's making this god awful noise randomly. It happens with music playing, and silence and doesn't stop if I unhook the input or turn the trim knobs down all the way. I am afraid that if I leave the amp on it will ruin my speakers which I wasted too much time on. (long story don't ask).
I want to suspect the AM rejection is not set correctly. In my notes it looks like I confirmed that all 3 AM pins are tied to ground. Is that the correct setting for Central Florida USA?
Here is a video of the noise Shared album - Matt Battaglia - Google Photos
At least my system does not support this video format. Could we please have a simple MP3?
All three AM-pins low means 400KHz carrier frequency. My impression is that the setting of the carrier frequency is a matter of not disturbing eventual AM transmission, not a matter of being sensitive to AM signals.
Please use some cheap test speakers until the problem is solved. If you short-circuit the two inputs to signal ground, do you then still have this random noise problem?
All three AM-pins low means 400KHz carrier frequency. My impression is that the setting of the carrier frequency is a matter of not disturbing eventual AM transmission, not a matter of being sensitive to AM signals.
Please use some cheap test speakers until the problem is solved. If you short-circuit the two inputs to signal ground, do you then still have this random noise problem?
Hi
you wrote that you fix the awful hiss sound. What did you?--> re check this changes...maybe there is the fault....wrong/faulty components..
at my 3116 amp i did implement the wrong value of caps because i sorted it in the wrong box- without checking the values
instead of 4,7µF i used 4,7nF
its make noise like an old radio with not getting the correct channel...noise with some mouse pip
chris
you wrote that you fix the awful hiss sound. What did you?--> re check this changes...maybe there is the fault....wrong/faulty components..
at my 3116 amp i did implement the wrong value of caps because i sorted it in the wrong box- without checking the values
instead of 4,7µF i used 4,7nFits make noise like an old radio with not getting the correct channel...noise with some mouse pip
chris
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Thanks, yeah so the fix was to set the input gain correctly. From the factory they were set to +36db gain so I swapped some resistors to make it +20db gain and the hiss is gone.
As per usual when you ask someone for help it magically repaired itself. It has not made the noise since I posted that video. Which is happy and also worrisome.
As per usual when you ask someone for help it magically repaired itself. It has not made the noise since I posted that video. Which is happy and also worrisome.
Well, if you chose to buy the cheapest amp available, it may bite your a$$ in return. Amps and power are insanely cheap these days but if you skip on actually necessarily parts, you'll have to pay some price for it.
The gain can be adjusted, but the problem seems to still exist in the input stage and probably the output filters. You can revert the circuit to the reference design provided in the datasheet but if they 'saved' too much, it might be cheaper to order a different, properly designed amplifier board. Karma's a bitch, you know?
The gain can be adjusted, but the problem seems to still exist in the input stage and probably the output filters. You can revert the circuit to the reference design provided in the datasheet but if they 'saved' too much, it might be cheaper to order a different, properly designed amplifier board. Karma's a bitch, you know?
Thanks again. So living with this for a few more days it seems to happen within the first 20 minutes of the amp warming up. and it only happens on the right side of the amp the left side is quiet and it does happen with nothing connected so it's a connection issue.
I thought I was buying a good board because it (in theory) had the voltage regulation to bring up 12v to 24v but I was wrong.
I just fired up my PC and the amp and it just happened but it was quiet this time. It seems to be getting better every time. The first day it was making horrendous noise every 10 minutes, now it's barely noticeable.
I thought I was buying a good board because it (in theory) had the voltage regulation to bring up 12v to 24v but I was wrong.
I just fired up my PC and the amp and it just happened but it was quiet this time. It seems to be getting better every time. The first day it was making horrendous noise every 10 minutes, now it's barely noticeable.
"....it does happen with nothing connected....". If you mean an open input, it can pick-up any kind of noise. Also with a SmartPhone as source and if no music, the output of the phone normally becomes high impedance (in order to save power).
Even just in the vicinity of the amplifier but not connected to the amplifier, a SmartPhone can induce noises in the amplifier when it performs the frequent "hand-shakes" with the repeater (sounds a bit like a grasshopper). Move the phone away from the amplifier.
Even just in the vicinity of the amplifier but not connected to the amplifier, a SmartPhone can induce noises in the amplifier when it performs the frequent "hand-shakes" with the repeater (sounds a bit like a grasshopper). Move the phone away from the amplifier.
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A lot of class D amp boards are in PBTL mode, their output may not be connected to the gnd. Such a short is the main reason the boards fry. They probably had 'saved' too much and it was prone to fail because of that anyway.
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