Hi again. So I received my TAS5630 and step up transformer but haven't had a chance to test them yet.
I understand the amp is bridged. It has two outputs (L/R) but I am creating just one speaker. Now, I know I cannot bridge L/R, and a bridged amp isn't necessarily mono. Can someone tell me if this amp is mono due it being bridged, in which case I can plug into either output and get the same sound?
My buddy is also making a speaker and we tested his setup a TPA3116D2, we are both using the same speaker setup, different amp/power. The sound was tinny and really bad. We think this is down to stripping a stereo aux cable and wiring into amp and 3.5mm jack on phone. Does this make sense? We have ordered some new cables and mono jack, so hope this will solve the issue and it's not just a bad speaker. Also, even when no cable connected, there was a lot of "static" noise.
I understand the amp is bridged. It has two outputs (L/R) but I am creating just one speaker. Now, I know I cannot bridge L/R, and a bridged amp isn't necessarily mono. Can someone tell me if this amp is mono due it being bridged, in which case I can plug into either output and get the same sound?
My buddy is also making a speaker and we tested his setup a TPA3116D2, we are both using the same speaker setup, different amp/power. The sound was tinny and really bad. We think this is down to stripping a stereo aux cable and wiring into amp and 3.5mm jack on phone. Does this make sense? We have ordered some new cables and mono jack, so hope this will solve the issue and it's not just a bad speaker. Also, even when no cable connected, there was a lot of "static" noise.
After a bit more reading, it seems I have hit a bit of a wall on this. Paralleling may be an option to achieve mono output, but it is bad as out of phase signals work against each other, which can lead to bad sound and amp getting damaged.
What if I were to also parallel the input as well as the output, so output channels would be perfectly in-phase? Would this enable me to use this stereo amp in mono?
Or simply mono to L input and only R output? I have read some amps don't react too well to this.
eshamp, I'm amazed that nobody has pointed out to you that you're going about this completely upside down, you're fixated on how many watts you can get, while you should be focusing on SPL, and getting there with as few watts as possible, because you're ultimately limited by the size of your battery.
There was a chap here called Saturnus who designed a portable speaker system for listening to Scandinavian death metal, which he called boominator, there is a thread here on this very forum that you might like to peruse. He abandoned the boominator a few years ago to concentrate on a commercial version called soundboks, and maybe a good off the shelf solution for you that you can buy right now.
Of course you can do better making your own version, for a start by having two speakers, separated by a distance that lets you enjoy stereo sound.
There was a chap here called Saturnus who designed a portable speaker system for listening to Scandinavian death metal, which he called boominator, there is a thread here on this very forum that you might like to peruse. He abandoned the boominator a few years ago to concentrate on a commercial version called soundboks, and maybe a good off the shelf solution for you that you can buy right now.
Of course you can do better making your own version, for a start by having two speakers, separated by a distance that lets you enjoy stereo sound.
Thanks for the response. I luckily had read about SPL before buying my speaker. It is quite efficient at an SPL of 96db.
I was tempted by boominator and halfinator, but I didn't go down that route for a number of reasons. Cost (the guide is quite precise and so the parts listed are all quite expensive), size, weight, build quality and portability. A used ready built Wharfedale Titan Pro 8 PA speaker in a plastic housing that is already weatherproofed cost me just £20 and weighs 7kg, and there is space in the housing for the amp and battery pack.
I've no doubt in the future I will make a boominator, but for now I am just trying to convert this passive PA speaker.
My and my friend are still very clueless but we've learnt a fair bit so far, hopefully this experience will help when I do make something like the boominator.
In the meantime, I've read conflicting views on whether a stereo amp can be used as a mono amp and how to go about it. I'd really rather not buy another amp for this project. :/
Hi eshamp,
Your post 42 reminds me of a boof that happens around here every once in a while:
People like to stack adapters to plug their iPod into a mic input on a mix board. Trouble is, they're feeding a differential input. That causes all signals that match between the 2 channels to be greatly attenuated. Virtually all commercial recordings are mixed to mono below a couple hundred Hz. The result is exactly what you described -- missing bottom 2 octaves.
A stereo amp with its jumpers set to 'bridged' cannot accept two inputs. Please review the amp's documentation until that completely makes sense. The time will be well-spent in the long run, and you'll save money, too.
Cheers,
Rick
Your post 42 reminds me of a boof that happens around here every once in a while:
People like to stack adapters to plug their iPod into a mic input on a mix board. Trouble is, they're feeding a differential input. That causes all signals that match between the 2 channels to be greatly attenuated. Virtually all commercial recordings are mixed to mono below a couple hundred Hz. The result is exactly what you described -- missing bottom 2 octaves.
A stereo amp with its jumpers set to 'bridged' cannot accept two inputs. Please review the amp's documentation until that completely makes sense. The time will be well-spent in the long run, and you'll save money, too.
Cheers,
Rick
So you get a TAS5630.
That´s fine, you put it in PBTL mode and happily drive a 8Ohm driver with clean 100-140 watt´s. Isn´t that what you wanted?
Maybe you are confused with different ways of using the 4 outputs of the chip?
At the same power supply voltage you get with some distortion:
SE = single ended =TAS has 4 Outputs =quattro =4x 45W at 8 Ohms
BTL = bridged =TAS has 2 outputs =stereo = 2x 180W at 8 Ohms
PBTL = parallel bridge =TAS has one output = Mono = 1x190W at 8Ohms, but 2x current capability, better control of driver
OK?
That´s fine, you put it in PBTL mode and happily drive a 8Ohm driver with clean 100-140 watt´s. Isn´t that what you wanted?
Maybe you are confused with different ways of using the 4 outputs of the chip?
At the same power supply voltage you get with some distortion:
SE = single ended =TAS has 4 Outputs =quattro =4x 45W at 8 Ohms
BTL = bridged =TAS has 2 outputs =stereo = 2x 180W at 8 Ohms
PBTL = parallel bridge =TAS has one output = Mono = 1x190W at 8Ohms, but 2x current capability, better control of driver
OK?
Ok, I assumed because you wanted to use LifPo4 batteries that you were loaded, but now I understand you are pretty much skint.
LifePo4 is great battery technology, but they have lost out to Li ion, in spite of their problems all the manufacturing R&D money is going there.
And just use one of the little blue 3118 boards
They sound great, are mono so you don't have to fret about that, and are very efficient, I have one version that measures just 25mA quiescent.
Haha, yep, skint. The main reason I didn't go with a TPA3118 was I needed the voltage to get the most out of my 150w rms Wharfedale Titan Pro 8. Now that I tested the setup with a step up transformer, increased voltage didn't lead to increased volume, which I found very weird. Have I missed something? The
TAS5630 on full volume as was the input device. I tested from 13v up to 48v and volume stayed the same...
hi
but if you bought the board like the post #1 i think its configured at Mono board. so No its not possible the get out your 4x210W.
if you look at the Datasheet of the chip..you will see that this chip is designed foe max 210Wx2
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TDA8954.pdf
just a reminder 210 Watt per channel is a huge power what you "need". Tell us what you want to do....PA outdoor like eshamp?
datasheet chapter 4 --> +/- 41V power supply into 4 R load give 210W with 10% THD
chris
Hi
do you mean the power supply voltage?
if so then its normal until your output voltage is not near the voltage of the rail voltage or more --> clipping
ideal:
you have an input signal - this gets amplified (gain of the amplifier)- -> the output voltage swings with the input signal up to the max rail voltage (power supply) into the load. the power supply voltage give you the margin how big that output swing can be. if its under 13V you will not hear any difference.
so the "volume" (volume knob) is the variable voltage input for the amplifier
chris
do you mean the power supply voltage?
if so then its normal until your output voltage is not near the voltage of the rail voltage or more --> clipping
ideal:
you have an input signal - this gets amplified (gain of the amplifier)- -> the output voltage swings with the input signal up to the max rail voltage (power supply) into the load. the power supply voltage give you the margin how big that output swing can be. if its under 13V you will not hear any difference.
so the "volume" (volume knob) is the variable voltage input for the amplifier
chris
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OK, thank you. So to get the most out of the amp I need an additional pre-amp to increase the gain? The "volume" knob on the amplifier does not do this?
Hi
no. i guess push the level of your input source...DAC, CDplayer....what ever...
source- amp-loudspeaker
Sorry I'm very new to this, but input (phone) is on full volume and so is amp.
Hi
no problem...
the phone is the source...approx max 500mV output voltage at modern smart phone maybe 600mV-700mV.
but your amp with volume knob at the max is not sufficient???
you use the TAS5630 amp. so it should have enough gain..
i use tpa3250, tpa3255 and tpa3116 and i measured during listening the input voltage at my amp from my dac and its about 70mV rms and 350mV Vpp....--> pic
hhhmmm....i really do not know whats going on here
re check all wirings and connections
chris
no problem...
the phone is the source...approx max 500mV output voltage at modern smart phone maybe 600mV-700mV.
but your amp with volume knob at the max is not sufficient???
you use the TAS5630 amp. so it should have enough gain..
i use tpa3250, tpa3255 and tpa3116 and i measured during listening the input voltage at my amp from my dac and its about 70mV rms and 350mV Vpp....--> pic
hhhmmm....i really do not know whats going on here
re check all wirings and connections
chris
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