I'm looking to power two subwoofers from a T-Amp with a 24v supply. But I'm not quite sure how to match them up.
The Drivers might be the Eminence Kappalite 10" 8ohm 450wRMS...wired in parallel to bring them to 4ohms: link
(edit: I could use 4ohm drivers also...in parallel to make it 2ohms: link)
I've been looking at the line of SureWondom amps (link1, link2) but the figures for the amps are given in different voltage and ohms so much so that my maths-phobic brain starts to melt down!
Please help!!
The Drivers might be the Eminence Kappalite 10" 8ohm 450wRMS...wired in parallel to bring them to 4ohms: link
(edit: I could use 4ohm drivers also...in parallel to make it 2ohms: link)
I've been looking at the line of SureWondom amps (link1, link2) but the figures for the amps are given in different voltage and ohms so much so that my maths-phobic brain starts to melt down!
Please help!!
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With a 24V supply, you get 65-70W in 4 Ohm. The limit is set by the supply voltage. Is that power enough?
Only "link1" works for me. The amplifiers displayed by "link1" are much more powerful than what the 24V allows. Do you still want to continue with a 24V supply (70W)? If yes, does it have to be class T? There are better (more suited) and much cheaper amplifiers to run on 24V.
Only "link1" works for me. The amplifiers displayed by "link1" are much more powerful than what the 24V allows. Do you still want to continue with a 24V supply (70W)? If yes, does it have to be class T? There are better (more suited) and much cheaper amplifiers to run on 24V.
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Whatever class you use, it's the power supply voltage that sets your limits - as mentioned above. Current is also important, you usually need a lot for subs so be sure your power supply has high current ability.
You might do OK with a 24V supply depending on your room size and listening levels, but it seems like the lower limit for sub-woofers. The nice thing about the Kappalite is that it's fairly efficient so you don't need unusually high voltages. The suggested dual driver sub design from Eminence says 99dB @ 2.83V, which is quite high. The box does need EQ, though.
If I were doing it, I'd just buy an Icepower module wit the built in power supply and be done with it.
You might do OK with a 24V supply depending on your room size and listening levels, but it seems like the lower limit for sub-woofers. The nice thing about the Kappalite is that it's fairly efficient so you don't need unusually high voltages. The suggested dual driver sub design from Eminence says 99dB @ 2.83V, which is quite high. The box does need EQ, though.
If I were doing it, I'd just buy an Icepower module wit the built in power supply and be done with it.
Class T is a proprietary (Tripath) sub-group of class D. The working is based on the same principles. Class D is normally fixed frequency while class T also varies the frequency. Class T is known for a very good mid-range/treble while the bass should be like ordinary class D. It seems class T is no longer developed since the bankruptcy of Tripath in 2007.
For bass alone I see no need for class T.
If you use a 24V supply anyway, a TPA3116 amplifier in PBTL-coupling (mono) will sound as good as any of the Sure amplifiers (at 24V) and will cost only around 5$!
If you want more power, you need a higher supply voltage.
It is an old "trick" to specify output power with a very low load impedance. When you reduce the load impedance to half, the output power doubles, IF the amplifier and power supply can supply double current.
Give your power needs some consideration. The Sure amplifiers are high quality but intended for supply voltages around 50V and also for use of their fine mid-range, not only bass.
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Hi
do you have a good schematic or pcb for class t amp?
i need about 100 wat on 4 ohm load
can you please share it?
thank you
Hmmm Tripath was gone in 2005 only badly gelded clone chips remain 13 years later... and TPA3116 Chip amps sound like shite.
At least my two copies did.
Buy Cheap = Buy repeatedly
.
Sounds like a tough life in a beautiful country.
No, all cheap does not sound like "sh...". Compared to Tom's Neurochrome constructions, perhaps. It is very subjective.
DIY amplifiers can be made rather cheap and to sound well to the enjoyment of the constructor. And, you learn a lot at the same time.
TPA3116 was designed for sound-bars and the like, not as an audiophile reference amplifier. For a first DIY construction, it is very useful and particularly suited in cars. It does really well for what it was designed for.
For the Tripath (Wiki says 2007, but never mind), it is a bit of a mystery who actually produces the chips today. They must be produced according to original masks because making an own and similar wafer design must be far more work. Topping still produces TP60 amplifiers, as far as I know, and hardly with chips from before 2007. Sure uses a lot of TC2000/2001.
Buying repeatedly (or re-using) is a characteristic of DIY. It is the continuous search for a better understanding of the circuits.
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The TA2022 should be just able to do 100W in 4 Ohm. Sorry, I have no PCB layout. I bought a cheap TA2022 module and modified it myself. My next will be on Vero-board.
For the schematics, look in the data-sheet. I use LM317 for +5V and drive 11V, not the internal hysteresis Buck converter.
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