Objective:- Amplifier to power 2.1 setup with enough headroom to support future driver upgrades.
Intended application- To drive 2x35W RMS satellites and 1x100W RMS subwoofer.
Desired features- Amplifier with more than 50W RMS per channel for satellites and 200W+ RMS on Subwoofer channel, with onboard filters and tone control.
Budget- under 100$
Probable Source- Ali Express
I haven't had good experience with TPA3116 boards in the past. They were a bit lacking in terms of power delivery. I have seen TAS5630 boards and the reviews they've got, both on AliExpress and DaytonAudio but want an opinion here. maybe there's something that fits the bill or might even saves it.
Intended application- To drive 2x35W RMS satellites and 1x100W RMS subwoofer.
Desired features- Amplifier with more than 50W RMS per channel for satellites and 200W+ RMS on Subwoofer channel, with onboard filters and tone control.
Budget- under 100$
Probable Source- Ali Express
I haven't had good experience with TPA3116 boards in the past. They were a bit lacking in terms of power delivery. I have seen TAS5630 boards and the reviews they've got, both on AliExpress and DaytonAudio but want an opinion here. maybe there's something that fits the bill or might even saves it.
Have 2 of these and love them: TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W | eBay
Only had to replace the cap of after running at 24V for a long time (months daily) The default cap is 25V rated, you schould not give it more then 20V (The difference in loudness is very small: about 1 dB.) or replace it for 1 or 2 35V caps. There are holes in de board for a setup of 2 caps instead of 1 big one laying on it's side.
You can switch the 125Hz high pass filter for the tops on and off and the lowpass for the sub is variable from about 50 to 250Hz.
Only had to replace the cap of after running at 24V for a long time (months daily) The default cap is 25V rated, you schould not give it more then 20V (The difference in loudness is very small: about 1 dB.) or replace it for 1 or 2 35V caps. There are holes in de board for a setup of 2 caps instead of 1 big one laying on it's side.
You can switch the 125Hz high pass filter for the tops on and off and the lowpass for the sub is variable from about 50 to 250Hz.
I too have 2 TPA3116 amplifiers. One is a stereo amp and other is 2.1 Both were used with 24V10A power supply and 19V5A power supply. Both went into "protect" mode even when higher power was used so now I'm using the 19V5A supply on the 2.1 board. Now I want something that can deliver more power to the current and future bigger drivers.
Yup, I have narrowed down one TPA3255 board on AliExpress, will order it in a day or two.
TPA3255 NE5532 IS1864S 2.1 300W 150W 150W Class D Bluetooth Amplifier RCA DIY
Online Shop TPA3255 NE5532 IS1864S 2.1 300W +150W +150W Class D Bluetooth Amplifier RCA DIY | Aliexpress Mobile
TPA3255 NE5532 IS1864S 2.1 300W 150W 150W Class D Bluetooth Amplifier RCA DIY
Online Shop TPA3255 NE5532 IS1864S 2.1 300W +150W +150W Class D Bluetooth Amplifier RCA DIY | Aliexpress Mobile
Then there was probably something wrong as my boards play fine and crazy loud all day long with 2Ohm (par. 2x4 Ohm) subs and 5 Ohm (90dB/W) speakers with a (HP) 3.14A 19V or 24V 6A power supply's I have.
(1) What kind of speakers are you using, how sensitive and how many Ohm's are they and (2) is the cable from you power supply not to thin or to long? (3) Do the heatsinks make good contact, do they get a little warmer when playing loud?
More power won't give you much more volume, as double the power is only +3dB minus power compression, louder. Doubling the speakers and powering them gives +6dB.
Beware that the amp doesn't seem to have any adjustment for main/sub levels or crossover frequencies.
Depending on your speakers, the output might be imbalanced between main and sub and there is no way you can adjust it. (or does the bass mean subwoofer and treble main speakers?)
And in my opinion, a very important feature is a crossover, and I would prefer adjustable when it comes to 2.1 systems. That might have at least fixed lowpass for sub, but there is no information about it.
1. The speakers I'm currently using are 2x5W@4Ohm as satellites and 2x40W@4Ohm(connected in parallel thus effective impedance is 2Ohm) as Subwoofer. The satellites are 2.5inch full range drivers and the sub comprises of 2 4inch drivers.
2. The power supply is a Dell 90W PSU so cable length and guage is what comes standard with such power supply.
3. Heating isn't the issue as the level at which I play music, the amp runs stable for hours on end.
You can better understand the issue in the following thread.
Problems with amp and Bluetooth module.
@Nenola
That's my concern too. That's why I'm considering TAS5630 also.
Lusya TAS5630 + OPA1632DR + TL072 2.1 amplifier machine home aduio amplifier machine Class D 300W + 2 * 150W-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
this one is supposed to have better tonal control with dedicated subwoofer frequency/level control pot. But TAS5630 has been found to be "noisy" by folks here.
From that threat:
"For the L-R channel, it's a pair of 6.5inch JBL Coaxial drivers rated at 4 Ohm 45W RMS while the Subwoofer unit is a pair of 4 inch 4 Ohm drivers rated at 40W RMS. They are wired in parallel so the effective impedance would be 2 Ohm."
"If it happens without the subs attached, then I don't think your problem is over current or heat related."
You don't seem to have a over current problem.
@1 Earlier you wrote 45W instead of 5W
Have you measured the fysical resistence/imdedence of the speakers, (maybe found an impedence graph) they might have a dip to low for the amp while playing. Did you test with other speakers?
@2 should be ok.
@3 If the heatsink does not get a little warm, it might not have good contact with the chip, which then can overheat and shut down.
Getting a more powerfull amp will get you no more output.
"For the L-R channel, it's a pair of 6.5inch JBL Coaxial drivers rated at 4 Ohm 45W RMS while the Subwoofer unit is a pair of 4 inch 4 Ohm drivers rated at 40W RMS. They are wired in parallel so the effective impedance would be 2 Ohm."
"If it happens without the subs attached, then I don't think your problem is over current or heat related."
You don't seem to have a over current problem.
@1 Earlier you wrote 45W instead of 5W
Have you measured the fysical resistence/imdedence of the speakers, (maybe found an impedence graph) they might have a dip to low for the amp while playing. Did you test with other speakers?
@2 should be ok.
@3 If the heatsink does not get a little warm, it might not have good contact with the chip, which then can overheat and shut down.
Getting a more powerfull amp will get you no more output.
I swapped those coaxials with the current satellites and they are 5W each @ 4ohms. In the subwoofer box, Today I swapped one 4inch driver with another 4inch driver and it's rated at 20W@8ohm. They are still connected in parallel. The problem still persists, which is that as soon as a track is played which is bass heavy, when the bass note plays, the LED on the amplifier board dims a bit and the sound cuts off momentarily. It goes back to normal either when the bass note is over or when volume is turned down, either from the source or from the amplifier.
Till now I have tried following:
I intended to buy bigger amp only to get rid of this problem and have headroom for future driver upgrades.
Till now I have tried following:
- Using smaller satellites
- Using higher impedance driver for subwoofer
- Using higher rating power supply
I intended to buy bigger amp only to get rid of this problem and have headroom for future driver upgrades.
So the tops are only 5W..... that's only 1/10th of what the board should be capable off.
Is it correct that you only tested with 1 board?
Then there must be something very wrong with the board like the decoupling caps being faulty or one of the smaller ones near the chips. Are they swollen / are the tops still flat?
You don't need a bigger amp just one which works correctly.
Do you have link for this board with some pics? (maybe from where you bought it)
// edit: is it the REES52 2.1 Channel Audio Stereo Amplifier Subwoofer Board you mention in the other threat?
Is it correct that you only tested with 1 board?
Then there must be something very wrong with the board like the decoupling caps being faulty or one of the smaller ones near the chips. Are they swollen / are the tops still flat?
You don't need a bigger amp just one which works correctly.
Do you have link for this board with some pics? (maybe from where you bought it)
// edit: is it the REES52 2.1 Channel Audio Stereo Amplifier Subwoofer Board you mention in the other threat?
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The caps look fine.
Before getting the board, I was using the same setup with 2 amps, 1 stereo Nobsound NS-01 amplifier driving the satellites(at that time, I was using those JBL Coaxials) and a monoblock car amplifier for the subwoofer(2x40W@4ohm each, in parallel) and it worked well.
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Yes, but can still be faulty. But this boards performance did not deteriorate over time? If it was like this from when it was new, it might just be a limit of the design.
If it functions ok I suggest to use it as it is; and get a better board if you want more power.
The board I mentioned earlier will suit you and runs fine from a laptop adapter. I don't know if your current board has a high pass filter for the tops, but that will make a lot of difference in how much power your tops will like to get before they sound bad; especially when you use small tops.
If it functions ok I suggest to use it as it is; and get a better board if you want more power.
The board I mentioned earlier will suit you and runs fine from a laptop adapter. I don't know if your current board has a high pass filter for the tops, but that will make a lot of difference in how much power your tops will like to get before they sound bad; especially when you use small tops.
The problem has been with that amp since the day I bought it, less than 6 months ago. But thing is, when kept it within the limits the board runs OK. The 3 pots on it control the bass, treble and overall volume level so the Tops aren't an issue. Guess have to go for a bigger amp but there too question stands, TAS5630 or TPA3255?
http://yuan-jing.com/ make what seam to be good 2.1 tpa3116 and tpa3255 boards and finished Au case amps. there on aliexpress too. i got the finished blue version. does a weird relay on off on or something on power up but works fine. fancy caps inside. low noise floor. good pre amp ic. i forget which one. theres models with BT and without. my one has bt but ive not used it yet.
Be careful, 2ohms is a load which is too low for many amplifiers. In the case of your new Yjhifi TPA3255 amplifier, 2ohms is OK in SE mode - which is how your amp's stereo speaker outputs are configured ...
but 2ohms is not OK in BTL mode - which is how your sub speaker output is configured.
If you were to use a single TPA3255 (mono) amplifier to drive your subwoofer, this would be OK, since in this mode; PBTL, 2ohms is OK ... but this is not practical, since you have already purchased a pre-configured 2.1 amplifier.
The easiest solution for you is to use just one of your subwoofer drivers, instead of two. Of course you are giving up some power handling capacity, but at normal-to-slightly-high listening levels this should not be a problem.
Another solution is to wire your two subwoofer drivers in series, raising the effective impedance to 8ohms, which is still fine for the TPA3255.
I know this is technically OK, but I don't know how the sound quality of this approach compares to the previous scenario of using a single 4ohm driver. Maybe some of the experts here can jump in on this subject.
A popular and well regarded power supply on this forum for the TPA3255 is Meanwell LRS-350-48. Approx US$35.
I think this will be plenty powerful enough for you, but if you want to go higher, in the Meanwell range you would go up to the RSP-500-48 approx US$90.
But you would now be spending more on the power supply than the amplifier, and if you are happy to do this a better option would likely be to use the "soft-switching" LLC power supplies, such as this no-name Chinese brand -
800W DC48V LLC Switching Power Supply Board For Amplifier PSU TPA3255 Audio Amp etc-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
or the better regarded Connex SMPS600RS -
SMPS600RS | Connex Electronic
I have a contender for the Power supply, costs almost USD 35
48V 10A SMPS - 25W - Metal Power Supply buy online at Low Price in India - ElectronicsComp.com
48V 10A SMPS - 25W - Metal Power Supply buy online at Low Price in India - ElectronicsComp.com
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