The model you mentioned is currently unavailable. If it's back in stock by the time amp arrives, will go for it. Right now the only Meanwell PSU available is Meanwell SE-600-48 on Amazon and it costs almost 245USD here.
As for subwoofer, I'll keep what you said in mind because I have a gut feeling that my current predicament is due to amp not being able to handle too low impedance. Thus will swap the remaining 4 Ohm driver with an 8 Ohm one ASAP.
For the Meanwell LRS-350-48 try Mouser (India)
LRS-350-48 MEAN WELL | Mouser India
US$33, but their delivery charge might not be cheap.
LRS-350-48 MEAN WELL | Mouser India
US$33, but their delivery charge might not be cheap.
Hmm, they have a 600W Meanwell unit available
SE-600-48 MEAN WELL | Mouser India
Will go for this one
Thanks mate
SE-600-48 MEAN WELL | Mouser India
Will go for this one
Thanks mate
The amplifier arrived 3 days back. Tested it then with 19.4V 4.5A Laptop PSU. It worked well barring the loud pop sound when powered ON. Today the Meanwell SE 600-48 Power supply also arrived (cost me $145). Yet to hook up bigger drivers with the Amp but the Pop sound upon powering is louder and sometimes the PSU keeps running but the amp shutsdown almost immediately after powering up. I guess its either the voltage or current surge through the amplifier that puts it in the "protection" mode ?
Dunno what's the exact issue here or how to fix it.
Moreover the PSU fan also runs at full blast from the get go, thus making the setup sound like a fruit juicer if nothing is playing. Want to add an ON/OFF switch between the AC Mains and the PSU but don't know how on that front either at the moment. Moreover, I noticed a "R.S." labelled 2-pin Relimate connector slot next to Voltage adjustment Pot. The PSU manual calls it a CN4 connector but haven't found much info on it. Is this where I can add an ON/OFF switch?
Right now I'm having mixed emotions with the PSU. It's expensive and genuine article but my setup ain't bumping so don't know how to feel about it.
Dunno what's the exact issue here or how to fix it.
Moreover the PSU fan also runs at full blast from the get go, thus making the setup sound like a fruit juicer if nothing is playing. Want to add an ON/OFF switch between the AC Mains and the PSU but don't know how on that front either at the moment. Moreover, I noticed a "R.S." labelled 2-pin Relimate connector slot next to Voltage adjustment Pot. The PSU manual calls it a CN4 connector but haven't found much info on it. Is this where I can add an ON/OFF switch?
Right now I'm having mixed emotions with the PSU. It's expensive and genuine article but my setup ain't bumping so don't know how to feel about it.
It's working fine now. I'm running 2 full range drivers for Highs, rated at 35W at 4 ohms each. The lows are handled by 12 inch sub, 300W at 4ohms. Bluetooth works fine, so does the RCA input. There's a noticeable signal gain with latter when fed through DAC. The issues that I was facing earlier were majorly setup related. Most of them have been fixed. Those which I couldn't, I've learned to live with, prominently the fan noise of PSU.
I did try to use a fan controller but as the fan isn't a PWm one, just standard 2 wire config thus all the controller did was to lower voltage going to fan which did slow it down but also made fan make ticking noise. As it's the only cooling source for the PSU, don't want to mess with it anymore.
As for the frequency response range of the Tops, I'll get back to you once I hook up proper speakers to it, with dedicated mid and high drivers.
Right now what I can tell you is that the Treble knob is a glorified tone control and the bass knob si gain control. Actually volume control is through the source, be it the bluetooth device or DAC. I keep the volume knob to zero while powering to minimise the start-up pop and after that I crank it to full.
As for the frequency response range of the Tops, I'll get back to you once I hook up proper speakers to it, with dedicated mid and high drivers.
Right now what I can tell you is that the Treble knob is a glorified tone control and the bass knob si gain control. Actually volume control is through the source, be it the bluetooth device or DAC. I keep the volume knob to zero while powering to minimise the start-up pop and after that I crank it to full.
How do I find that out?
Doing a tone generator test didn't yield much in terms of frequency response of Tops as they too were trying to play the lower frequencies when I was testing the bass. Did some modification to the latter. Now I have hooked up 2x12inch subwoofers to it, each rated at 300W RMS @4ohms, wired in parallel, thus keeping it within the amplifiers parameters which says 600W @2ohms @10%THD. The enclosure for bass is tuned at 34Hz. There hasn't been any noticeable clipping or distortion yet but then again I haven't gone beyond 30% volume (from source) as in that much itself, the whole apartment starts to rattle, let alone my room
The TPA3255 chip is rated for 600W in PBTL mode, or 1 output.
The board has 1 chip in 2.1 config. and is rated 2x150@4ohm and 300W@4ohm. That is wrong, it should be 2x150W@2Ohm and 300W@4Ohm 10%THD
You run 2x4Ohm par = 2Ohm instead of the rated 4Ohm, which could overload the amp and test it's safety features.....before it burns.
To check if your tops run full range; turn bass down, connect 1 of the subwoofers to a top channel and run your tone generator from 500hz down to 50hz. You will hear if it starts to lower in volume.
The sub will have (about) the same low pass/high cut filter or x-over point. To find this first, just run the tone generator with only a subwoofer connected from 50 to 500hz and listen when it starts to lower in volume.
The board has 1 chip in 2.1 config. and is rated 2x150@4ohm and 300W@4ohm. That is wrong, it should be 2x150W@2Ohm and 300W@4Ohm 10%THD
You run 2x4Ohm par = 2Ohm instead of the rated 4Ohm, which could overload the amp and test it's safety features.....before it burns.
To check if your tops run full range; turn bass down, connect 1 of the subwoofers to a top channel and run your tone generator from 500hz down to 50hz. You will hear if it starts to lower in volume.
The sub will have (about) the same low pass/high cut filter or x-over point. To find this first, just run the tone generator with only a subwoofer connected from 50 to 500hz and listen when it starts to lower in volume.
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Data sheet says:
• Total Output Power at 10%THD+N
– 315-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
– 185-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
– 600-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
• Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
– 260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
– 150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
– 480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
I would call it 480W.
Never did like the power ratings given at 10%THD+N.
Still plenty loud.
Wired the subs in series and they still bump.
Did what you said, the Tops cut out by 100Hz and the Sub crossover is somewhere between 125-130Hz.
All in all, the amp has handled anything and everything that I have thrown at it. At the levels I'm playing it, I haven't encountered any distortion/clipping yet. The Power On pop is there and while using Bluetooth, the highs sound a bit hollow. Add to that the gain loss in Bluetooth over RCA input.
As long as it running the way it is, I'm OK with it. Anyways I have zeroed Crown XLS2502 for subs and Marantz 5005 for L-R duties but have to save a bit more before getting these upgrades
@Dug: I would normally to; TS used 10% THD and board specs are in 10%, so I used the same.
@Rude1: Wise to put them in series, 8Ohm.
Thank you for the test; so the tops don't run full range; x-over ~125Hz, which I think is nice.
It would be nice if they mentioned this in the specs and give the correct output for the tops (2Ohm).
But I like it and thinking of buying one.
I would love to see a dual chip 2.1 board : 2x260W@4ohm and 1x480W@2Ohm, 1%THD - that would be perfect for mobile PA.
@Rude1: Wise to put them in series, 8Ohm.
Thank you for the test; so the tops don't run full range; x-over ~125Hz, which I think is nice.
It would be nice if they mentioned this in the specs
and give the correct output for the tops (2Ohm).But I like it and thinking of buying one.
I would love to see a dual chip 2.1 board : 2x260W@4ohm and 1x480W@2Ohm, 1%THD - that would be perfect for mobile PA.
Simple fix for your speaker 'pops':
2.1 channel / 3 channel speaker delay protection board support BTL US $6.39
2.1 channel / 3 channel speaker delay protection board support BTL US $6.39
Where does this truth/myth come from? I read similar remarks mostly on this forum, but don't know why it would.
Real life experience tells me I would have blown all of my +/- 20 class D amps, but none has blown by just powering them, some for days at a time.
I also disconnected the speakers several times while playing sound, but again; no smoke.
I have done this to inukes (irs20957?), tpa3116/3118, tda7498E, pam84xx and some others.
You can also be hit by lightning while not using 1 speaker output of a class D amp.... that chance might even be bigger.
Who can enlighten me?
Real life experience tells me I would have blown all of my +/- 20 class D amps, but none has blown by just powering them, some for days at a time.
I also disconnected the speakers several times while playing sound, but again; no smoke.
I have done this to inukes (irs20957?), tpa3116/3118, tda7498E, pam84xx and some others.
You can also be hit by lightning while not using 1 speaker output of a class D amp.... that chance might even be bigger.
Who can enlighten me?
Hi Think
I am not the expert. i read it very often. my suggestion is (trigger by FF, Voltwide and doctor).:
if the coils and the caps are not correct designed at the output filter and the board and the setup of the frequency is not fiit to it --> it can happend without load that you get an resonant circuit and the output filter is heavily ringing and your chip amp is to slow to react to switch off.
chris
I am not the expert. i read it very often. my suggestion is (trigger by FF, Voltwide and doctor).
:if the coils and the caps are not correct designed at the output filter and the board and the setup of the frequency is not fiit to it --> it can happend without load that you get an resonant circuit and the output filter is heavily ringing and your chip amp is to slow to react to switch off.
chris
Thank you.
I'm still an electro noob, so for me you are an expert ; would putting some hi value (1000Ohm?) resistors, bypassing the relays or shorting the outputs, to 'fix' this? Or is there a nicer 'fix' for this?
Do commercial products have some sort of protection for this?
Because if this is a real problem, we should hear/read many reports about failing class D amps.
I'm still an electro noob, so for me you are an expert
; would putting some hi value (1000Ohm?) resistors, bypassing the relays or shorting the outputs, to 'fix' this? Or is there a nicer 'fix' for this?Do commercial products have some sort of protection for this?
Because if this is a real problem, we should hear/read many reports about failing class D amps.
Hi Think
i am on level 5
FF and doctor are level 100
if the current should go not totally through the output filter it should go some current to a load....so....the 1000ohm is not a good idea. us an 16ohm 32ohm 5Watt resistor...for the not needed speaker...check the temp of the coils and the resistor after a time playing
chris
i am on level 5
FF and doctor are level 100
if the current should go not totally through the output filter it should go some current to a load....so....the 1000ohm is not a good idea. us an 16ohm 32ohm 5Watt resistor...for the not needed speaker...check the temp of the coils and the resistor after a time playing
chris
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