Thanks for your feedback and the suggested modifications after testing this further.
I have not received the boards yet, but will try to implement the suggested modifications if it should be required.
Will follow up once the parts arrive...
The lesser power you have in the supply, the more capacity you need in the decoupling caps to handle dynamic demands. I would use 10000uF.
Each channel with TPA3116 can supply up to 72W in 4 Ohm, thus 144W for two channels. Your supply can deliver half, 72W. No amplifier losses have been taken into account. The power deficit can only temporarily be covered by the decoupling caps so you have to rely on the crest-factor of the music.
Each channel with TPA3116 can supply up to 72W in 4 Ohm, thus 144W for two channels. Your supply can deliver half, 72W. No amplifier losses have been taken into account. The power deficit can only temporarily be covered by the decoupling caps so you have to rely on the crest-factor of the music.
That also depends on your speakers' sensitivity...
FauxFrench, how does your system sound?
I have TPA3116/18 systems with on-board output filter and systems where the output filter is external of the amplifier board, typically for more powerful filters.
I check amplifiers for the ability to reproduce very low (bass) frequencies and that the high middle range and treble is clean and without signs of distortion.
Then, I give them an all-round test.
All my TPA3116/18 systems are worth more than I paid. Better with external filters. I will recommend such amplifiers to anyone rather new in DIY.
I am not the right person to ask for qualities like "aggressiveness", "transparency", "stereo perspective", "presentness" because I at present do no comparative tests. Alone, all my TPA3116/18 amplifiers sound fine to me, seen in the light of the price.
I am happy that we have members like t-minik, Chris, KaffiMann and many other with gear and patience to come to a conclusion on sound aspects. I start loosing interest when an amplifier works to my expectations.
I check amplifiers for the ability to reproduce very low (bass) frequencies and that the high middle range and treble is clean and without signs of distortion.
Then, I give them an all-round test.
All my TPA3116/18 systems are worth more than I paid. Better with external filters. I will recommend such amplifiers to anyone rather new in DIY.
I am not the right person to ask for qualities like "aggressiveness", "transparency", "stereo perspective", "presentness" because I at present do no comparative tests. Alone, all my TPA3116/18 amplifiers sound fine to me, seen in the light of the price.
I am happy that we have members like t-minik, Chris, KaffiMann and many other with gear and patience to come to a conclusion on sound aspects. I start loosing interest when an amplifier works to my expectations.
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I had one board powering 2 8” subs, rated at 84db (?) playing bass in low 20hz at 2 ohms. Might have actually hit 80 watts - pretty loud and clean. I Used the other to test a pair of 15” 2-way PA speakers and it blew my mind! I’m sure those were in 90+dB range.
Will I really need a decoupling filter?
It is a very simple concept stemming from lack of space on the original amplifier board where the initial filter components are often very small and insufficient. It is a valid concept for class D amplifiers without post filter feedback.
Remove the filter components from the amplifier board. Use the pads on the amplifier board, for connecting the chip output pins to the filter chokes, to solder some 18AWG wires. Find a place on the amplifier board near the output where you can connect 16AWG wires. Reconstruct the output filter and eventual zobel-elements on a separate board where you have space for better chokes and foil capacitors. Connect the external output filter to the amplifier 18AWG and 16AWG wires keeping the wires short.
Nothing more fancy than that.
Thank you FF for the roses
For me its important to try something out and decide in roughly 3 steps:
modify 1 should be a working and well sound amp -min budget (sometimes some adaptions are mandatory to get a working board/amp
)modify 2 should be real modification in SQ with the max of the budget of the amp
modify 3 should be a max modification with 150% of the budget of the amp board
but nevertheless the SQ sessions are not easy to come to neutral judgment
this is the reason i do this 4 to 5- times in different days with different songschris
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I recently bought a boxed amp on eBay, using the TPA3116.
The manufacturer seems to be "Breezy Audio", but I couldn't find that name, so it's probably just a name, not a manufacturer.
Anyway, I opened it and it seems very well made, with some SMD parts being replaced with upgrades. I mean, some capacitors that were recommended to be changed for film types or higher value electrolytics had been done. Let's hope you know what I'm talking about.
It was also recommended to add a zobel at the output and a 6800uF capacitor at the power supply input, but that was not done on this amp. So I might do it myself.
Of course I have listened to the amp, with very good speakers, powered with a 19v switching supply, and it sounds remarkably well. It might be worth trying it with linear supply too, and see how it does sound, if something changes.
Perhaps someone has tried this amp or similar, and has something to add or comment. That would be great.
The manufacturer seems to be "Breezy Audio", but I couldn't find that name, so it's probably just a name, not a manufacturer.
Anyway, I opened it and it seems very well made, with some SMD parts being replaced with upgrades. I mean, some capacitors that were recommended to be changed for film types or higher value electrolytics had been done. Let's hope you know what I'm talking about.
It was also recommended to add a zobel at the output and a 6800uF capacitor at the power supply input, but that was not done on this amp. So I might do it myself.
Of course I have listened to the amp, with very good speakers, powered with a 19v switching supply, and it sounds remarkably well. It might be worth trying it with linear supply too, and see how it does sound, if something changes.
Perhaps someone has tried this amp or similar, and has something to add or comment. That would be great.
“Breeze Audio” is one of the brands I see reviewed on Youtube. Seems like the same basic design of the Chinese boards. Better components? Maybe.
Even the really bad assembled boards that I’ve tried sounded good. The Bluetooth amps still have the crappy Bluetooth noise. Any fix I haven’t tried? Even the antenna mod didnt increase the range and im still looking for a mod to add an aux input. Probably need to ask in the other post.
I use Wima foil capacitors and better chokes. I have some Sagami chokes (probably clones). Other may be equally good but often the chokes delivered with a cheap amplifier board are clearly insufficient in current rating.
Started reding some more about output filters on class d amps, and found out that value of the choke, capacitor, and speaker impedance make up "a Q", and values could/should be adjusted to come as close to 0,7 as possible. Anyone willing to go through such pain?
I use the guidelines of NXP:
8 Ohm -> 22uH/680nF
6 Ohm -> 15uH/1uF
4 Ohm -> 10uH/1.5uF
Well, the capacitors are better, that's a fact.
Not interested in BT really, only cabled interface, as this one has.
Pity I do not have a linear power supply about 19v, with such current capability. Perhaps that might make a difference.
I've only run into one situation where I needed Bluetooth - iPod defect, can only use BT for output. Apple products are such a pain.
I haven't had a problem using laptop and LED string light power supplies, except noise from using 2 in the same circuit. Using one with higher current has solved this, but rethinking the decoupling filter for more power with 2 amps.
I haven't had a problem using laptop and LED string light power supplies, except noise from using 2 in the same circuit. Using one with higher current has solved this, but rethinking the decoupling filter for more power with 2 amps.
So far I had 2 3116 mono boards both connected to a 24v 3a power supply, connected to 2way speakers with crossovers. Playing from an old iPod Nano. 89db sensitivity, if I was in fact getting 28 watts out of each channel it was LOUD enough and clean as I need it. Now the slight noise in quiet music parts, I dont think it’s there at idle - would a decopling filter and higher amp supply help this?
BTW - the boards have the 330 chokes...
I would like to build the same concept CORRECTLY with preamp and switchable 8/4ohm outputs, toroidal or linear power, and a decent enclosure. Maybe even a headphone circuit. 3118 or better chips? Is there already a setup I could look at and copy crucial parts?
BTW - the boards have the 330 chokes...
I would like to build the same concept CORRECTLY with preamp and switchable 8/4ohm outputs, toroidal or linear power, and a decent enclosure. Maybe even a headphone circuit. 3118 or better chips? Is there already a setup I could look at and copy crucial parts?