Thank you. Yes inductors not caps. As I have a few of these boards I'll play around, they cost a couple of dollars each so nothing to lose.
I'll replace the inductors. Do you recommend experimenting with the caps too?
I'll replace the inductors. Do you recommend experimenting with the caps too?
@FauxFrench I know I'm bumping an old thread, but I'm kind of new to this, and since since I blew up my last TPA3116 while modifying it, how would I go about wiring two TPA3116 boards in BTL?
The plan is to get one stereo TPA3116 and one mono TPA3116 to achieve a 2.1 setup.
The plan is to get one stereo TPA3116 and one mono TPA3116 to achieve a 2.1 setup.
What were you trying to do when you blew it?
Why not get something like this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...exp_id=aeba8eeb-70f4-4959-af22-05e50fded87a-4
Why not get something like this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...exp_id=aeba8eeb-70f4-4959-af22-05e50fded87a-4
Honestly I have no idea what happened, I tried to remove the on-board bluetooth chip, tried it and it worked but the sound was quiet low, while it was running I tried to check the voltage of a resistor with a multimeter and I did not even put the other pin-lead to anything yet. made a weird sound and It just went mute after that, not even a pop-on sound on startup like it used to do.
Well, I'm using an external BT box to connect my TV to the stereo TPA3116 amp, with good results. It does work fine. Latest BT chips are much better, even if operating on one side of the interface. I first bought a Neoteck headphone preamp, and had some glitches in the audio.
A friend of mine toldme it was the TV's output BT.
But then I bought a Fiio BTR5, with a properly designed BT interface, and goodbye to audio glitches. Smooth high quality sound. Well as HQ as BT allows. A direct connection would probably be better, but I do not do headphone listening except for this. All fashioned loudspeaker fan is what I am.
A friend of mine toldme it was the TV's output BT.
But then I bought a Fiio BTR5, with a properly designed BT interface, and goodbye to audio glitches. Smooth high quality sound. Well as HQ as BT allows. A direct connection would probably be better, but I do not do headphone listening except for this. All fashioned loudspeaker fan is what I am.
Thats the ultimate plan actually, How do I go about wiring master/slave tpa3116? I plan on buying a stereo tpa3116 with a mono one to achieve 2.1.
Finding a box for housing the TPA3116 is major problem for me, not to speak of the holes you have to do.
That's why I would opt directly for 2.1 ready made box. You can then use RCA or BT as interface. Pity all of them seem to have bass/treble controls.
One thing you definitely should do, if you don't know that, is replace the grease between chip and heatsink. Mine was dry and the unit turned off after long use. Changing the grease, which had dried out, solved the problem.
That's why I would opt directly for 2.1 ready made box. You can then use RCA or BT as interface. Pity all of them seem to have bass/treble controls.
One thing you definitely should do, if you don't know that, is replace the grease between chip and heatsink. Mine was dry and the unit turned off after long use. Changing the grease, which had dried out, solved the problem.
Hi, i'm going to build stereo amp with two mono tpa3116 recommanded by fauxfrench. How connect the power decoupling module ?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Lusy...b6d7-4aa0-9fd7-318461e9b9ea&priceBeautifyAB=0
In : dc + to both AC in and dc - to gnd in ?
Out : + to vcc + and - to vcc - power amps
Thanks
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Lusy...b6d7-4aa0-9fd7-318461e9b9ea&priceBeautifyAB=0
In : dc + to both AC in and dc - to gnd in ?
Out : + to vcc + and - to vcc - power amps
Thanks
When used with a SMPS this board is really a smoothing/filtering board for the power supply not a decoupling.
The decoupling is really from the transformer when lowering the voltage from the AC mains. With a SMPS the voltage is already DC before it hits the board so it isn't decoupled any further.
I would remove or bypass the bridge diodes to avoid the diode voltage drop when using this (which I think was suggested earlier)
-Rich
Using this for SMPS and single supply is different than the original purpose. For this purpose this is just a big capacitor mounting board unless I am missing something.
I think I remember also reading this in the thread from someone: This board is really only good for one supply because generally having a common ground on multiple SMPS can cause other issues like ground loop so it is better to isolate the amps and supply. For one supply if you remove the diodes I think you can connect the DC to both rails and use both rails outer rails as the + input to the amp with the center as gnd if the negative rail capacitor is reversed on the board which would give a very large capacitor board.
It looks like the outside traces of the board are +/- where the center is a ground. The diode connects those rails to the AC supply. In this case you could leave them but it will cause a voltage drop (and one capacitor would not do anything).
The negative rail is meant to be DC negative for amplifiers that need a positive and negative supply so without changes only the + rail works for a single supply.
They could be removed and replaced with a wire or the far side of the diode could just be used as the input (as was suggested) but the negative input would need the capacitor to be reversed from the original intent or it would be reverse polarity and would blow up and a capacitor that big blowing up is not good....
https://www.electricaltechnology.or...se DC voltage across,is known as valve effect.
If the polarity is changed and connected in parallel this would give parallel both of the rails are connected both coming from the SMPS and to the AMP.
If you were to physically cut it in half (or mainly remove the connection on the middle of the center trace) then the halves could also be used for two amps (with the negative rail capacitor was reversed on the board). One of the small caps would have to be mounted on the opposite side from the intention but it would probably fit nicely in the holes for the removed diode bridge.
-Rich
Understood, thanks.
Maybe a TPA3255 is a better solution rather 2 mono tpa3116. All parts cost (55€) are almost same price than AIYIMA A07 (75€).
Saw those audio filter on aliexpress, good product ? : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003781324034.html
I think It the choice up amplifier depends on what voltage you are running. If you run 24v or less then there is really no advantage of going with a bigger amp than the 3116. There is also a middle ground of the 3250.
I am not sure the filter boards are really needed unless you don't have a very good supply and in that case getting a better supply might make more sense.
I looked into if running multiple class D boards was a problem breifly but it didn't seem like a big deal. You could always run them as true mono blocks on two different power supplys.
If you are doing a complete enclosed amp then the prices of the 3116 and 3255 get closer. If you get just a board then the 3116 is a lot cheaper but many require gain modifications to really be good....
This amp seems cheaper than the A07 and it is a dual 3116. I am not sure exactly what board it has though: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802765577595.html
The A07 is just a bigger amp. It depends on where you are putting it, how much space you want to take up, how much SPL you need, how sensative your speakers are, etc etc,
Plus the A07 won't perform any better than the 3116 until you get a 32V supply or higher so there is a cost there too.
In the end though this is a hobby. If we count the time spent it would make more sense to just buy the bigger amp right from the start and not think about it again.... Unless you enjoy thinking about it and playing around like most people here do.
-Rich
Already bought all parts :I think It the choice up amplifier depends on what voltage you are running. If you run 24v or less then there is really no advantage of going with a bigger amp than the 3116. There is also a middle ground of the 3250.
I am not sure the filter boards are really needed unless you don't have a very good supply and in that case getting a better supply might make more sense.
I looked into if running multiple class D boards was a problem breifly but it didn't seem like a big deal. You could always run them as true mono blocks on two different power supplys.
If you are doing a complete enclosed amp then the prices of the 3116 and 3255 get closer. If you get just a board then the 3116 is a lot cheaper but many require gain modifications to really be good....
This amp seems cheaper than the A07 and it is a dual 3116. I am not sure exactly what board it has though: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802765577595.html
The A07 is just a bigger amp. It depends on where you are putting it, how much space you want to take up, how much SPL you need, how sensative your speakers are, etc etc,
Plus the A07 won't perform any better than the 3116 until you get a 32V supply or higher so there is a cost there too.
In the end though this is a hobby. If we count the time spent it would make more sense to just buy the bigger amp right from the start and not think about it again.... Unless you enjoy thinking about it and playing around like most people here do.
-Rich
4x amp https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32692393070.html
4x SMPS https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002641979814.html
I will make 4 mono block and design case with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4096614
I did not saw 3d printed enclosure on the forum.
Probably won't use filter board.
I need to drive 4x outdoor FOCAL 100 OD8 speaker.
Controlled by raspberry with pcm5102 dac and picoreplayer for multiroom.
Actually using nobsound amp https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32717414321 but not enough power.
Thanks for your advices.
I am doing something similar for a outdoor 5.0 system for my Pool area. I plan on using 3 xh-m542 monoblocks and 1 modified xh-m543 stereo for the surround. I need a 5.1 decoder and volume control box for this so I plan to use a single meanwell 24v 240w ip65 rated led driver. I am also thinking about changing the heat sinks to be large aluminum blocks that are connected to the aluminum case so that it can be fully sealed and dissipate head via the case... That way it is more water proof.
I will post it up somewhere soon.
I also have some tda7492 and tda7498 boards. So far I like the tpa116 better. The tda boards seem to ripple before clipping and run hotter. I might not have the best tda boards though...