Hi,
saw few thread about sound cutting but it was @ high volume.
It was working fine for few weeks, and out of no where, under normal use, the sound is now cutting under low/med signal.
- Mine is at low volume (low signal input), the sound is cutting. see video.
- the 3 channels are cutting in same time.
- If I stop music over BT or Line-in, the speaker are clicking in the same way.
It act just like a overtemp protection, the TPA shutoff and then ON every 1s.
Please, note that the ''shutoff'' click, is way different than the original hiss sound from no signal (battery saver).
Solutions so far :
-I tried many power supplies,
-many speakers (4 to 8 ohms).
- I cleaned the original thermal paste that was on the TPAs legs, put new artic silver.
- Play with volume knobs
Nothing worked.
Final note : if I'm blasting the sound, everything is ok. But its hard for the ears
YouTube
saw few thread about sound cutting but it was @ high volume.
It was working fine for few weeks, and out of no where, under normal use, the sound is now cutting under low/med signal.
- Mine is at low volume (low signal input), the sound is cutting. see video.
- the 3 channels are cutting in same time.
- If I stop music over BT or Line-in, the speaker are clicking in the same way.
It act just like a overtemp protection, the TPA shutoff and then ON every 1s.
Please, note that the ''shutoff'' click, is way different than the original hiss sound from no signal (battery saver).
Solutions so far :
-I tried many power supplies,
-many speakers (4 to 8 ohms).
- I cleaned the original thermal paste that was on the TPAs legs, put new artic silver.
- Play with volume knobs
Nothing worked.
Final note : if I'm blasting the sound, everything is ok. But its hard for the ears
YouTube
Good work you have done to find the fault. It is a vicious behavior. A further problem is you do not have access to the TPA3116 chip because of the heatsink being glued to the chip.
I do not believe it is an over-temperature problem with a 1 second period and these heatsinks.
My guess is it is a problem with the control circuit deciding to activate or mute the TPA3116 chips.
Pin 12 of the chip is the mute input. You may find that the signal on this pin is toggling between low and high at the same frequency as the sound. The question is if you can find this signal outside of the heatsink.
Another interesting pin on the TPA3116 is pin 2 (“SDZ”) which is a shut-down pin and may also follow the output being switched on and off.
Pin 3 is a “fault” output pin being pulled down in case of a fault detected by the chip.
I do not believe it is an over-temperature problem with a 1 second period and these heatsinks.
My guess is it is a problem with the control circuit deciding to activate or mute the TPA3116 chips.
Pin 12 of the chip is the mute input. You may find that the signal on this pin is toggling between low and high at the same frequency as the sound. The question is if you can find this signal outside of the heatsink.
Another interesting pin on the TPA3116 is pin 2 (“SDZ”) which is a shut-down pin and may also follow the output being switched on and off.
Pin 3 is a “fault” output pin being pulled down in case of a fault detected by the chip.
thanks for your help.
In fact, the heatsing is not glued, there's 2 screws for each heat sink.
I'm pretty sure the issue is from the thermal paste all over the pins.
Ive cleaned it with alcohol and dry with air duster can.
So if I cut a pin or rewire it to bypass the ''protection'' , it could work?
Since I doubt there's a ''real issue'' because its working well @ high volume.
Last edited:
My impression is it is not a protection issue. Then it should not work at high levels. Probably rather an issue in the input selection circuit.
Something like the input selection swapping between different sources by itself. Did you try to put a memory card with an MP3 file in the card reader? Or, perhaps there is some "intelligent" detection that searches for an input signal with a certain amplitude. In-between trying various sources, it may mute the TPA3116 amplifier part.
I have received amplifiers with the small amplifier chip completely soaked in cooling paste without that preventing the chip from functioning.
You have 5 small switches on the side. They do "something", in particular for changing input source. Could one of them be hanging such that the circuit interprets this as you pushing the button constantly? Try to hear if all switches "click" correctly and feels right.
Something like the input selection swapping between different sources by itself. Did you try to put a memory card with an MP3 file in the card reader? Or, perhaps there is some "intelligent" detection that searches for an input signal with a certain amplitude. In-between trying various sources, it may mute the TPA3116 amplifier part.
I have received amplifiers with the small amplifier chip completely soaked in cooling paste without that preventing the chip from functioning.
You have 5 small switches on the side. They do "something", in particular for changing input source. Could one of them be hanging such that the circuit interprets this as you pushing the button constantly? Try to hear if all switches "click" correctly and feels right.
Last edited:
So thanks once again for your help.
I tried all sources (usb-A, sd, 3.5mm, bt) it still cutting.
But I found something new.
- Right/left channel sound is cutting, but the sub still running ( note, 2 tpa on this board, one for the sub the other for stereo).
- Only Right channel is clicking hard ( speaker will get pushed all the way out)
- This is happening 5-6 minutes AFTER I turn ON the amp. This stating to look like a fake overheating !
- When ''cold'', amp is working just fine.
still dont understand why its working fine under big load.
I plugged it on 2 fisher st-740 12'' 8ohms and a 10'' 375w rms 4ohms pionner tank sub. Floors are shaking
I tried all sources (usb-A, sd, 3.5mm, bt) it still cutting.
But I found something new.
- Right/left channel sound is cutting, but the sub still running ( note, 2 tpa on this board, one for the sub the other for stereo).
- Only Right channel is clicking hard ( speaker will get pushed all the way out)
- This is happening 5-6 minutes AFTER I turn ON the amp. This stating to look like a fake overheating !
- When ''cold'', amp is working just fine.
still dont understand why its working fine under big load.
I plugged it on 2 fisher st-740 12'' 8ohms and a 10'' 375w rms 4ohms pionner tank sub. Floors are shaking
Really nice speakers!
Absolutely strange TPA3116 behavior. Could it be that you have an important DC-offset at the stereo outputs? Measure with voltmeter in DC-setting with volume turned fully down.
Don't use good speakers before the problem is solved. Cone all the way out indicates DC on the speaker which is not good for the driver.
Absolutely strange TPA3116 behavior. Could it be that you have an important DC-offset at the stereo outputs? Measure with voltmeter in DC-setting with volume turned fully down.
Don't use good speakers before the problem is solved. Cone all the way out indicates DC on the speaker which is not good for the driver.
Be very careful with artic silver thermal paste as it is a great electrical conductor. I strongly advise against using it on chips with exposed legs because of the risk of shorting them out.
The white thermal paste is (in general) not electrical conductive only heat. The difference in performance is minor; correct application makes a bigger difference: little dot in the middle of the chip and press the sink on and better use 5 times as much (non conductive paste only!) then just not enough as you will have an airgap in between the chip and sink.
The paste's job is to replace the air in the slit between the sink and chip.
If you are not sure if you have applied enough paste; pull the sink up and look if the whole chip is covered and the you can the the chips outline in the thermal grease on the sink. Before putting the sink back on add an extra tiny drop in the middle of the chip or clean it and apply it again.
// Nice puzzle; 1) did you use other speakers? (Take FauxFrench his advice !!! and better use cheap or crappy ones which are nice to throw away) And is the result the same?
2) Do I understand correctly that it will run at higher volume without problems after 5/6 min? What happens if the problem starts and you raise volume?
Last edited:
thanks for the advice.
Yeah, I use it for 3 months in my diy box, and it was ok.
Suddenly, volume @ 15%, the sound start clicking like so : YouTube
I did some test on many speaker, and figured out that the right channel was clicking hard (DC to speaker), left channel was turning the sound off, and subwoofer still running.
5 first minutes @15%, the sound is ok. After the 5 minutes or so I need to put volume @50-60% to avoid cut-off. And 50% on those amp is loud.
I watched your video. I only see one speaker. Is that the left channel repeatedly turning off the sound? If yes, there is also a right channel (with DC failure) we don't see and a sub-channel we don't see?.
DC at the output could be caused by a leaking coupling capacitor at the TPA3116 input (right channel). When the right channel puts DC on the speaker, it does not take long before the safety-circuit shuts down the whole chip and after about a second, attempts a "hick-up" re-start which turns the left channel on for a short moment.
Perhaps the key to the problem is the right channel that only does "clicking" (no music), correct?
Last edited:
The voltage rating of 36V (35V is normal standard) is fine. TPA3116 can handle 26V maximum.
I was under the impression it never worked correctly, so something on the board is probably damaged; as it functioned OK before.
Last edited:
fauxfrench put me on a good track.
Those amps are shipped in a bubble wrap, poorly protected.
One capacitor might be in fact damaged.
you wont see anything with those small cheap speaker. Its noticable on the 12''
- right click and stop music
- left only stop music
- sub still running fine
the ''sub'' 6.5'' is on the back .
See the inside, with a new smaller chip. Sound is better with this chip, but 50wx2 isnt very loud...
Those amps are shipped in a bubble wrap, poorly protected.
One capacitor might be in fact damaged.
you wont see anything with those small cheap speaker. Its noticable on the 12''
- right click and stop music
- left only stop music
- sub still running fine
the ''sub'' 6.5'' is on the back .
See the inside, with a new smaller chip. Sound is better with this chip, but 50wx2 isnt very loud...
Last edited:
Thanks for the photos.
Try to start the system with music as usual and with a voltmeter (DC range) across the right speaker terminals. For a start the voltmeter is likely to flicker somewhat from the AC music but without a clear DC component. After a while, you will probably see a DC value grow until you have the clicking in the speaker. Then switch off.
Try to start the system with music as usual and with a voltmeter (DC range) across the right speaker terminals. For a start the voltmeter is likely to flicker somewhat from the AC music but without a clear DC component. After a while, you will probably see a DC value grow until you have the clicking in the speaker. Then switch off.
Dear All,
I bought a similar but not the same board than overdose but I have the same problem:
- After about 1 hour usage of the amplifier at low input signal starting the same behaviour: sound cutting every seconds on right and left channel.
- If I increase the volume with the volume knob then the problem disappears.
- In this case (from this time), the board working well but if the source volume become low (for example between two songs) the sound cutting returns OR I decrease the volume the sound cutting also returns.
I found this topic with google, because I searched a lot for solutions. I built a complete project that based on this board: designed and 3D printed an enclosure with oled display and arduino: temperature and power supply monitoring, so I really want to use this board. I attached some picture for help in identification of my board (and my final enclosure).
I can imagine the root of the problem may be the input selection. The Bluetooth section is not important for me, because I use only the line in.
I will be very happy if somebody can give me any idea to solve this problem.
Best Regards,
gsc73
I bought a similar but not the same board than overdose but I have the same problem:
- After about 1 hour usage of the amplifier at low input signal starting the same behaviour: sound cutting every seconds on right and left channel.
- If I increase the volume with the volume knob then the problem disappears.
- In this case (from this time), the board working well but if the source volume become low (for example between two songs) the sound cutting returns OR I decrease the volume the sound cutting also returns.
I found this topic with google, because I searched a lot for solutions. I built a complete project that based on this board: designed and 3D printed an enclosure with oled display and arduino: temperature and power supply monitoring, so I really want to use this board. I attached some picture for help in identification of my board (and my final enclosure
).I can imagine the root of the problem may be the input selection. The Bluetooth section is not important for me, because I use only the line in.
I will be very happy if somebody can give me any idea to solve this problem.
Best Regards,
gsc73
Attachments
Dear All,
overdose: THX!
Last few days I performed few detailed tests. I found one more strange status. As I wrote earlier, after about 1-hour usage of amplifier the sound cutting can be heard in all modes (Bluetooth and Line-in) except one: if a Bluetooth device is connected and press Pause on the device after 5 seconds the sound cutting disappears. In this case a Bluetooth control LED starts flashing slow. (The LED flashes quickly when BT module is in search mode and the LED is constantly lit when BT module is connected).
I conclude that the source of the problem is in the input selector and/or BT module part. My question is: how can I bypass this part/section?
Best regards,
gsc73
overdose: THX!
Last few days I performed few detailed tests. I found one more strange status. As I wrote earlier, after about 1-hour usage of amplifier the sound cutting can be heard in all modes (Bluetooth and Line-in) except one: if a Bluetooth device is connected and press Pause on the device after 5 seconds the sound cutting disappears. In this case a Bluetooth control LED starts flashing slow. (The LED flashes quickly when BT module is in search mode and the LED is constantly lit when BT module is connected).
I conclude that the source of the problem is in the input selector and/or BT module part. My question is: how can I bypass this part/section?
Best regards,
gsc73
Dear All,
Today I identified all chips on the board (see attached picture):
1: XL1509-5.0E1: 12V to 5V voltage regulator.
2: R45810I: Dual Audio Operational Amplifier
3: TL072C-98M: JFET-Input Operational Amplifier
4: TL072C-98M: JFET-Input Operational Amplifier
5: AS19AP-1R340: Blutooth chip.
I think the BT chip could be the key to the solution, but I could not find any exact information about it, only hints: site1, site2, site3 (translate Russian to English).
I don't know how next.
Best Regards,
gsc73
Today I identified all chips on the board (see attached picture):
1: XL1509-5.0E1: 12V to 5V voltage regulator.
2: R45810I: Dual Audio Operational Amplifier
3: TL072C-98M: JFET-Input Operational Amplifier
4: TL072C-98M: JFET-Input Operational Amplifier
5: AS19AP-1R340: Blutooth chip.
I think the BT chip could be the key to the solution, but I could not find any exact information about it, only hints: site1, site2, site3 (translate Russian to English).
I don't know how next.
Best Regards,
gsc73
