I switched to 36V version.
Mean Well LRS-350-36 | Netzteile | Zubehor | Hobbyhifiladen
Board will run cooler and more amps for low impedance load.
I had hobbyhifiladen on the phone today and they said they already ordered the 48V and 36V from China. They will be available again in around 2 weeks time.
36V still in stock as of today.
Mean Well LRS-350-36 | Netzteile | Zubehor | Hobbyhifiladen
Board will run cooler and more amps for low impedance load.
I had hobbyhifiladen on the phone today and they said they already ordered the 48V and 36V from China. They will be available again in around 2 weeks time.
36V still in stock as of today.
Abletec/Anaview and Icepower when you are lucky.
I have seen chinese modules as low as 45$ for high power 2 channel modules
Wait ... hold on.
... All digital ... like USB, coax, TOSLINK and I2S input!
This beast needs its own thread.
"Hardware Overview
The TAS5634EVM evaluation module demonstrates the TAS5634DDV integrated circuit from Texas
Instruments. The TAS5634DDV is a high-power class-D with high-efficiency class-D technology. This EVM
supports two BTL (stereo 2.0) output channels, one PBTL (mono 0.1) output channel, one BTL plus two
SE (2.1) output channels, or four SE (4.0) output channels configurations. The EVM contains a TAS5558modulator which converts I2S audio input to the PWM signal which the TAS5634 uses as input. A built-in
MSP430 microcontroller and DIX4192 audio transceiver handles translation from USB-Audio or either of
the SPDIF inputs and allows the TAS5558 modulator to accept input from various digital sources.
The
Analog Plug-in Board connector also allows digital audio plug-in boards to be used with the
TAS5634EVM. The TAS5634EVM is a complete digital input solution with an output power of up to
2×300-W stereo, or 1×600-W mono."
"4.3 Output Mode Selection
The TAS5634 uses discrete mode pins and therefore relies on the states of the M1, M2, and M3 pins to
set the device mode. The jumpers J27, J29, and J30 are used to control the mode pins on the EVM,
leaving the jumper in pulls the pin LOW, removing the jumper lets the pull-up hold it HIGH. The three main
modes used in this guide are summarized in Table 5:
Table 5. Output Mode and Modulation Mode Selection
Mode Jumpers
M3 Input Mode Output Configuration Modulation Mode
(J30) M2 (J29) M1 (J27)
IN IN IN 2N 2 × BTL AD
OUT IN IN 2N 1 × PBTL AD
OUT IN OUT 1N1 4 × SE AD
All configurations in Table 5 support AD modulation and DC Speaker Protection. The TAS5634 also
supports BD mode and the ability to turn off DC Speaker Protection. These additional modes as well as
some mixed speaker modes are described in detail in TAS5634 300-W Stereo / 600-W Mono HD Digital
Input, 58V Class-D Amplifier Power Stage ."
"
4.5 Audio Front End
The TAS5634EVM includes a TAS5558 modulator and DIX4192 audio transceiver. This allows the EVM to
accept USB audio, COAX, or OPTICAL inputs via the DIX4192 which are converted to PWM outputs by
the TAS5558 modulator and fed into the TAS5634. The DIX4192 is configured for each input using the
onboard MSP430 over I2C and the S6 INPUT selection button.
As the TAS5634 is configurable in many output modes, the J25, J19, J21, and J23 jumpers allow the
PWM outputs of the TAS5558 to be routed such that the amp receives the signals in the right phase and
orientation. In general, during BTL and PBTL, INPUT_A and INPUT_B are of the same PWM signal but
opposite sign, the same applies to INPUT_C and INPUT_D. During SE mode, four positive PWM signals
should be used. An example is shown in Table 6:
Table 6. PWM Example Configuration
TAS5634 INPUT_x TAS5558 PWM Signal BTL, PBTL Mode TAS5558 PWM Signal SE Mode
INPUT_A PWM1+ PWM1+
INPUT_B PWM1- PWM2+
INPUT_C PWM2+ PWM3+
INPUT_D PWM2- PWM4+
"
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Assuming you want to buy a commercial/off-the-shelf DAC, if you want both balanced and "good" and under $200, you're likely looking at the used market. Of course, going the DIY route opens up more doors.
I used to have a Gustard DAC X-12 (older model) which had balanced outputs; I sold it for around $250 IIRC. Look also at the Emotiva XDA-1 or XDA-2. I know the -1 is no longer made, but if you can find a used one it should be well under $200. The -2 should easily be under $200 as well on the used market. Emotiva also sells the Stealth DC-1: you might be able to find one used for $250ish. I'm a bit hesitant to recommend it though, as I had one, and it gave me listening fatigue (though I seem to be the only one with this complaint, and it's a pretty popular device). I'm sure there are more, those are just the ones I happen to know of off the top of my head.
If you're up for the pure DIY route, if you cover shipping cost, you can have one of my tda1387 boards. It supports balanced or single-ended output. Easily doable for well under $200. I'm still in "testing" phase for it, so I can't attest how good it sounds. (Though I fully admit to an it's my baby bias, so don't look to me for an objective impression!)
So if the promo applies you get all that for only $125? I'd say that's a hell of a deal. I know absolutely zero about PWM anything though. Seems like it his higher noise than the analog TPAs we are playing with right now, but since it's all digital maybe that doesn't matter?
Yes, probably needs a separate thread. Too bad it doesn't seem okay for 4ohm unless you go PBTL.
Check out some of the 2-channel digital audio interfaces at Musicians Friend. These are basically used with computers or anything else with USB and digital outputs. Since they are used mainly for pro audio and “prosumer” applications, they have balanced outputs (XLR or TRS). My son creates beats on his MacBook Air and uses a Focusrite 2I2 interface. There are similar interfaces from M-Audio and Presonus as well. The nice thing isn’t these units also have ADC capabilities for transcribing vinyl analog recordings to digital formats.
I have a DAC with balanced ouputs, via 3-pin XLR connectors, but I'm having some difficulty wrapping my head around the XLR to dual RCA wiring scheme needed to implement the connection. I'm aware of the 3-pin molex connection that is also available, but it's the 3 into 4 for the RCA connectors that is hurting my brain.
Tubesguy--you duplicate the ground pin to both RCA jacks.
It boggled me until I had a quick look at the schematic.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slou441/slou441.pdf (Page 17)
Let me know if you're still stuck!
It boggled me until I had a quick look at the schematic.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slou441/slou441.pdf (Page 17)
Let me know if you're still stuck!
You should have continuity between the GND pin of the molex and the outer (ground) shell of the RCA connectors on the EVM. If you want to run two RCA cables from one XLR connector, you would connect the hot wire of one RCA to pin 2, connect hot wire of second RCA to pin 3, and connect the ground wires of both RCA cables to pin 1 (ground).
Connect the first RCA cable to the red input, and the second RCA cable to the black input.
Does that make sense? I hope I got that right.
Mike
Connect the first RCA cable to the red input, and the second RCA cable to the black input.
Does that make sense? I hope I got that right.
Mike
If and when I get the nerve, I'm planning on replacing the output filters with 15uf inductors and .47uf capacitors for my 8 ohm speakers.
Could someone confirm that, since I'll never use the SE outputs, I should be able to remove the 4 1500uf caps on the outputs? C21, C34, C42, C56. I also plan on replacing them with a copper jumper and remove J22 thru J25.
Thanks, Mike
Just looked at the bottom of the EVM. J22 thru J25 are not removable. Does one need to cut them in order to run SE outputs?
I guess I'll just remove the caps and call it good!
Could someone confirm that, since I'll never use the SE outputs, I should be able to remove the 4 1500uf caps on the outputs? C21, C34, C42, C56. I also plan on replacing them with a copper jumper and remove J22 thru J25.
Thanks, Mike
Just looked at the bottom of the EVM. J22 thru J25 are not removable. Does one need to cut them in order to run SE outputs?
I guess I'll just remove the caps and call it good!
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^ No mods needed, these are definitely better than any of the Chinese offerings. It's an extremely well-performing board at most any cost, and at $75, it's a screaming deal. Not sure who has boxed these chips up into amplifiers, so cannot comment there, but the EVM isn't leaving much on the table for optimization.
Doesn't mean that people like Mike (and myself eventually) will play around with them, BUT this is DiyAudio, so tinkering is genetic.
Doesn't mean that people like Mike (and myself eventually) will play around with them, BUT this is DiyAudio, so tinkering is genetic.
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Finally I get something I want for Xmas. Still mad at my dad that I got a "plastics engineering kit" instead of a .22 target rifle. And that was probably 55 years ago. Thanks - Pat
well, you can remove the caps if you dont ever intend to use the SE mode. and yeah, you have to desolder those jumpers.. they are rather more meaty than your average jumper.
i would not bother with changing the output filters.. as im sure DoctorMord would tell you ( seems to be the leading 3255 expert in these parts) the EVM is an incredibly well balanced design and performs extremely well. If it needed a different output filter im sure they would have used one. - an outlier case, i had this discussion when i wanted to use it with 16 ohm speakers. in that case, it might have been a good idea, but in the end, i used 8 ohm speakers. the amps sound great (they are still on my workbench..)