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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116 + CSR8635 Idle Noise
TPA3116 + CSR8635 Idle Noise
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Old 20th September 2017, 01:55 AM   #11
Perfdavid is offline Perfdavid  United States
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With the board on, take a 3 inch piece of copper wire, like 1/2 of a speaker cable and touch it to the Bluetooth antenna. The squiggly line by the Bluetooth module. See if it goes away. If it does then solder it on. If it doesn't then That isn't the problem.
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Old 20th September 2017, 06:43 AM   #12
baklazanowy is offline baklazanowy
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The pot have B50K on the back.
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Old 20th September 2017, 02:33 PM   #13
theAnonymous1 is offline theAnonymous1  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baklazanowy View Post
The pot have B50K on the back.
Try replacing it with a 10K.

Last edited by theAnonymous1; 20th September 2017 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 22nd September 2017, 09:31 AM   #14
baklazanowy is offline baklazanowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfdavid View Post
With the board on, take a 3 inch piece of copper wire, like 1/2 of a speaker cable and touch it to the Bluetooth antenna. The squiggly line by the Bluetooth module. See if it goes away. If it does then solder it on. If it doesn't then That isn't the problem.
Tested, solution doesn't work


changing into B10K pot is universal solution?
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Old 25th September 2017, 10:00 AM   #15
baklazanowy is offline baklazanowy
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Hi, I changed pot to B10K, and the result is worse. Noise still exists and music is bearly audible...
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Old 26th September 2017, 12:02 AM   #16
horst303 is offline horst303  Australia
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yeah...
welcome to the world of ultra cheap amplifiers , the thing is that I doubt anybody makes these cheap modules for the purpose of selling to the diy market, they are all destined for a retail product of some sort, that means that the modules you get maybe genuinely surplus and perfectly fine, or they may just not pass quality standards, so as the product manager you suddenly have the choice, do you put them in the bin or on ebay/allie?
So here we are, now the fix maybe simple but you have to decide for yourself how much time and money, well mainly time, you are prepared to spend on a ~$10 board for what could be indeed a simple component fix, but could just as well be a fundamental design flaw.
FWIW I have a number of these tpa3*** modules with soldered on bluetooth board, and they are all unusable, now I can't say that the next one you get will also be bad, but your experience here and now just confirms my bias.
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Old 26th September 2017, 08:09 AM   #17
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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Well, most boards can be fixed when patching the link from BT to TPA from pseudo-differential to full-differential. I showed this for 2 Sanwu boards.
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Old 26th September 2017, 09:23 AM   #18
baklazanowy is offline baklazanowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctormord View Post
Well, most boards can be fixed when patching the link from BT to TPA from pseudo-differential to full-differential. I showed this for 2 Sanwu boards.
It's possible with multimeter and some basic electronic skills find solution for my problem ?
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Old 26th September 2017, 09:34 AM   #19
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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Most likely not. I'll need high resolution pictures of front/back side of the board. (Sharp, without flash marks, straight)

One more thing to try, solder a big LowESR Cap in parallel with the yellow tantal cap right above the relay. Please note, die brown indicator on there is +++ while on Elytcaps the --- is marked. something like 1500-2000uF is a good start.

Patching the board for fully-differential most likely kills the aux-functionality.
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Old 26th September 2017, 09:39 AM   #20
baklazanowy is offline baklazanowy
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Ok, I'll try do some hi-res photos. I don't need AUX input.
Thx, I'll try with cap solution.
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