The New Hypex Fusion Plate amps

I made some boxes for my fa123's and a little remote sensor holder.

I used a laser cutting service to do the hard work. The top is mdf + walnut. There are two coats of "tried & true" original on them. I like this stuff because it is just wax and oil- the smell won't kill you. The top is glued to the box with loctite "power grab".

The box is a bud industries ac-411.

Side note feature suggestion for hypex:

Hypex, can you override the remote and have it play a keyboard command? It would be neat to have the left and right input select to play a next song command. Even if I had to keep the hypex app open I'd be happy. Since different apps use different commands there would need to be some freedom of what keys it sends.
 

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Hey guys,


first sorry for my bad english skills, i will give my best to write it understandable.


I use 4 hypex fusionamps (3x FA123 1xFA251) in my home cinema. They are connected via RCA with my Marantz SR7012.


First question: Is anybody currently using the same configuration at home? If yes, can you share your Device settings here?


I have a few problems which i hope to fix with your help.


1) If the flatcable on the back is not 100% in the correct position, I quickly have noise on the speakers. Do you have a way to fix the position?


2) My current Device settings:
Preset volume offset: 0
Input gain RCA: Add +7dB
Master unit: on
Activate signal detection: Off after 1min
Signal detection level ON: 3 OFF: 3
Shutdown: Standby


Problem 1: When the Marantz get no input signal or turned off, the module turn off too, but only turn ON when the Marantz Volume is at ~80%.


Problem 2: When Signal detection level is ON: 2 OFF:2, the module doesnt turn off.



Additional questions:
1) Volume vs. Preset volume offsets - what is the difference? How do you guys set them in practice?
2) Input gain configuration. Add +7dB useful with the Marantz? Does it has any effect, when its selected?
3) Signal detection level settings for av receivers? Marantz/Denon?

4) Is the advanced modification by soldering small jumpers on the DSP board needed? What this exactly changes? The entire range?



Best regards and many many thanks!
 
"Problem 1: When the Marantz get no input signal or turned off, the module turn off too, but only turn ON when the Marantz Volume is at ~80%.


Problem 2: When Signal detection level is ON: 2 OFF:2, the module doesnt turn off.



Additional questions:
1) Volume vs. Preset volume offsets - what is the difference? How do you guys set them in practice?
2) Input gain configuration. Add +7dB useful with the Marantz? Does it has any effect, when its selected?
3) Signal detection level settings for av receivers? Marantz/Denon?

4) Is the advanced modification by soldering small jumpers on the DSP board needed? What this exactly changes? The entire range?"


Problem 1 and 2: set the signal detection level ON: 1 or 2, leave the OFF level on 3 (assuming that worked for you as you described).

Additional qs:
1. It doesn't matter where you adjust the volume with the Hypex software, it happens in the same digital domain.

2. The +7dB input gain (and the +9dB for XLR) doesn't do anything currently.

3. Set the signal detection to the levels that works with your devices.

4. The advanced gain jumper adds analogue input gain (or removes the analogue input gain attenuation, if we look at it from this perspective). It's recommended if you can't reach the desired sound level with your analogue preamp (the AVR in your case). You can achieve the same sound level if you adjust the digital volume to the + territory, but that increases the noise floor considerably, whereas the advanced jumper not.
I soldered the advanced jumper (because my preamp can do max 4V balanced output) and the noise floor in my case remained the same, but raising the FA digital volume to +, increased the noise floor audibly.
 
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@fedde

1. Maxing all the way out the volume triggers some noise shaping I think, it's so obvious if you focus on the noise floor when don't play anything, if you like that, well, that's your choice.

2. Where did you get this info about the software input gain configuration? I think FA senses the input and output Voltage, regardless the input gain selector are ticked or not.
 
After getting my replacement fa123 from Solen/Hypex (great customer service from both, but very long turnaround time), I am finally getting time to reinstall it in my enclosure and , with some trepidation, go back down the hypex fusion route. Fingers crossed for better reliability this time.

I have one question that has been a major stumbling block for my system with these amps; I am powering a 3 way speaker with them, but also have a pair of Rythmik subwoofers. These only accept analog input, and because the servo functionality is tied to the plate amp, it's not possible for me to use another Hypex plate amp and daisy-chain, as they recommend in their suggested setups. I don't want to ditch the Rythmik subs, and don't have a good way to do bass management in the digital domain upstream of the FA123.

Is there a way to get a level controlled signal from the outputs on the FA123? I know they are meant for daisy chaining, but I wonder if hooking the toslink out to a DAC and routing that to my subs would allow me to get signal to them with the level control being handled by the FA123... obviously filtering and delay of the sub would have to be done downstream from the FA123. Or perhaps the XLR analog out could be used in this way?
 
Is there a way to get a level controlled signal from the outputs on the FA123? I know they are meant for daisy chaining, but I wonder if hooking the toslink out to a DAC and routing that to my subs would allow me to get signal to them with the level control being handled by the FA123... obviously filtering and delay of the sub would have to be done downstream from the FA123. Or perhaps the XLR analog out could be used in this way?

With level controlled you mean that the FA123 would apply volume control to the SPDIF / AES outputs?

I would just put a volume controller in the digital domain before you connect to the FA123. As long as you have a well designed gain structure then then loosing a few bits before the DSP is applied is no problem. And then you can use the SPDIF / AES outputs without having to worry about volume since the volume attenuation is already done.
 
With level controlled you mean that the FA123 would apply volume control to the SPDIF / AES outputs?

I would just put a volume controller in the digital domain before you connect to the FA123. As long as you have a well designed gain structure then then loosing a few bits before the DSP is applied is no problem. And then you can use the SPDIF / AES outputs without having to worry about volume since the volume attenuation is already done.

Thank you, yes this is what I meant - the FA123 remote would control volume for both the amps and the subs downstream of them.

Just to make sure I'm reading you right - the toslink and AES out are always live, acting effectively as a fixed-level 'repeater' of the signal coming into the amp (before DSP)? It looks that way from the block diagram in the manual, I just wanted to confirm.

One other question; if I do as you suggest, digital volume control upstream of FA123, and use FA123 digital out -> external DAC for the subs, do I need to worry about 'clock drift', or any other issues introduced by the different dacs? I must admit total ignorance in the area of keeping multiple dacs in sync.
 
Thank you, yes this is what I meant - the FA123 remote would control volume for both the amps and the subs downstream of them.

Just to make sure I'm reading you right - the toslink and AES out are always live, acting effectively as a fixed-level 'repeater' of the signal coming into the amp (before DSP)? It looks that way from the block diagram in the manual, I just wanted to confirm.

One other question; if I do as you suggest, digital volume control upstream of FA123, and use FA123 digital out -> external DAC for the subs, do I need to worry about 'clock drift', or any other issues introduced by the different dacs? I must admit total ignorance in the area of keeping multiple dacs in sync.

Yes it repeats the input signal, I have used Toslink input on 1 FA amp and then daisy chained to 2 more FA amps using the AES/EBU.

And on the topic on clock sync, nope. Not at all =)

None of the clocks of the DACs need to be in sync. They just need to take the input signal they recieve and convert it into an analog signal. Keep in mind also that you will also convert this analog signal into actual sound waves so any super fine delay sync will go completely out the window. And on top of that you are connecting it to a sub where the wavelengths are huuuuuge.

The only important part is that the delay that the external DSP + DAC is constant such that you can work around it. The delay might not be the same as the FA so you'll have to delay one of them to keep the sound in sync. Now I'm talking about using the delay in the DSP, however, not clock sync. And I haven't seen a DAC + DSP with variable delay and I can't think of any decent reason why anyone would build one so that probably won't be an issue ;)
 
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Yes it repeats the input signal, I have used Toslink input on 1 FA amp and then daisy chained to 2 more FA amps using the AES/EBU.

Excellent, this is what I hoped, and I have daisy chained my 2 FA amps via optical as well, but wasn''t sure if it only worked on other Hypex amps or if it was a 'regular' digital out.

And on the topic on clock sync, nope. Not at all =)

None of the clocks of the DACs need to be in sync. They just need to take the input signal they recieve and convert it into an analog signal. Keep in mind also that you will also convert this analog signal into actual sound waves so any super fine delay sync will go completely out the window. And on top of that you are connecting it to a sub where the wavelengths are huuuuuge.

The only important part is that the delay that the external DSP + DAC is constant such that you can work around it. The delay might not be the same as the FA so you'll have to delay one of them to keep the sound in sync. Now I'm talking about using the delay in the DSP, however, not clock sync. And I haven't seen a DAC + DSP with variable delay and I can't think of any decent reason why anyone would build one so that probably won't be an issue ;)

Again great news and what I had thought myself, I think I just got misled by a few posts on other forums talking about the different clocks 'drifting out of sync over time' if there were no external master clock signal.

I appreciate the confirmation on both!
 
I would also consider to use the third speaker out of Fusion for this. You could add a resistor divider network to get output voltage to Line level and then directly connect to analog in of your sub. This has a few benefits:
- No extra dac required.
- No potential timing issues.
- You can do filtering and delay in the fusion for sub if required.
- You can use Hypex volume control.
- You do not to use digital volume control on Hypex input, potentially degrading also mid and high quality.
 
1. Volume potentially gets lower. Thus your eardrums move less and your stomach may not feel the bass anymore.

That is of course true for any volume control - digital, analog or age-related.

2. With lower volume less bits are present in the signal.

Yes and no. If you have a 24-bit signal path, you can attenuate by 48 db or more before you start losing actual signal information. At that point, you wouldn't hear that information anyway.
 
Hello, can someone tell me how down i can go with crossover on a 100w tweeter channel? I want use FA123(253) in BTL mode for woofer and the last 100w channel for high sensitivity mid-high section with passive crossover between mid and tweeter. Is is possible go with 4th order on 300Hz? Thanks
 
The spec sheet says 500Hz and up for the tweeter channel, but what that means exactly is unclear.

Are you sure you need BTL? If you use 4 Ohm driver for the bridged channel, the BTL don't worth it because the output power remains almost the same but you lose one amp channel. Hypex FA BTL is worth only for high impedance load, 8 Ohm and up, but don't forget, you gain 3dB at max.