Long time lurker on this thread, watching it all pan out. I have scanned the thread again but couple of quick questions.
Would be looking at a FA253 to replace a normal crossover as have that itch that needs scratching on my 3 way DIY speakers.
Other than getting the gain structure optimal with tweaks, what are the current issues if any?
Seem to remember hiss on the tweeter channel earlier on and also the software was a pain to use. Has that improved at all?
My 3 ways are Horn/CD, pair of 5" mids and a pair of 8" woofers. All reasonably efficient.
Thanks for any help.
Would be looking at a FA253 to replace a normal crossover as have that itch that needs scratching on my 3 way DIY speakers.
Other than getting the gain structure optimal with tweaks, what are the current issues if any?
Seem to remember hiss on the tweeter channel earlier on and also the software was a pain to use. Has that improved at all?
My 3 ways are Horn/CD, pair of 5" mids and a pair of 8" woofers. All reasonably efficient.
Thanks for any help.
@ markymiles
The amps (FA253) works very well for me, except for a few minor software glitches.
The software like as is. Some call it pain, some are happy with the provided options/freedom.
Currently I use a CD/horn with 110 dB sensitivity and hear a very slight hiss at the listening spot about 2 meters away, but my (otherwise quiet) PC is louder anyway. The hiss is not recognizable if music or else plays.
I tried an L-pad instead of DSP level correction, the hiss is reduced of course but I heard no other benefits, so I abandoned the passive solution.
Regards!
The amps (FA253) works very well for me, except for a few minor software glitches.
The software like as is. Some call it pain, some are happy with the provided options/freedom.
Currently I use a CD/horn with 110 dB sensitivity and hear a very slight hiss at the listening spot about 2 meters away, but my (otherwise quiet) PC is louder anyway. The hiss is not recognizable if music or else plays.
I tried an L-pad instead of DSP level correction, the hiss is reduced of course but I heard no other benefits, so I abandoned the passive solution.
Regards!
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Thanks for that. I was considering an L-pad anyway to reduce hiss and also as precaution for the CD. That is my main worry. I previously tried a minidsp 2x4HD active crossover and that had hiss that I couldn't live with.
My CD is a BMS4550 which is 113db sensitivity, similar to yours.
Well, the 2x4HD have low noise on paper, but the FA is a little better in this respect. Additionally, if you use a 2x4HD, you need equally low noise power amps as well, this is solved with the FA.
What input you used with the 2x4? Analogue RCA connection can be much more noisier than XLR. The FA have XLR which the 2x4 don't, plus you need to use RCA with the 2x4 anyway to connect the power amps.
I hear the hiss only if the room and the whole house is quiet, but not annoying at all, to me at least, and this is without L-pad. With L-pad, there is nothing at the listening spot.
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I would still use the L-pad, easy to kill a compression driver with almost any kind of power amp. Do not think an L-pad would lower the sound quality in any way, and if it reduces hiss that's just one more bonus in addition to extra safety. I've been happy using some Panasonic MOX resistors (ordered lots, then measured to match perfectly).
I run the fa253 with compression driver with no inline passive. I guess I live dangerously. My listening position is 13 feet away. I don't hear any hiss from the drivers unless I walk up to the speaker. Even then it is small.
Also there is a bit of noise at turn off but seems like a small click. I've not blown any drivers yet....fingers crossed but I don't have any worries. I'm more concerned with power outage than the normal use case. Maybe UPC is in order.....
Also there is a bit of noise at turn off but seems like a small click. I've not blown any drivers yet....fingers crossed but I don't have any worries. I'm more concerned with power outage than the normal use case. Maybe UPC is in order.....
Do you have any theory for what physical effect could cause that?
But you didn't bother to confirm it objectively?
Frequency response was the same, I don't feel the need for more objective confirmation. I tried the L-pad just out of curiosity, but I was always happy when I removed it.
Tried today again for more experience to this discussion, but the result was the same.
So if frequency response was the same, what do you think is causing the difference?
How about a double-blind test?
Maybe reduced electrical damping or similar, I don't really care actually, because I like the sound more without the L-pad and like the sound in total.
If I wanted to use the L-pad for reduced noise, I might would do a double blind test to see if it really causes no other deterioration to the sound. But I feel no motivation to do so.
I didn't wanted to take that discussion so much subjectively, but if we're already here, I mention that I tried MOX resistors on my previous passive speakers, but I was soon disappointed. I heard a very metallic and even more compressed sound than with the wire resistors. Of course, you do not have to believe what I write, I did not want to first, so I tried many times, but I always ended up there.
Ahh, sorry, if you mean, the length of the wirewound resistor's wire that causes a delay to the signal? That is easily compensated with DSP.
Thanks!
I used 5.1 Ohm in series and 2.7 Ohm to the ground, that's roughly maintained a 7 Ohm impedance and reduced the tweeter level about 11 dB.
What type of distortion that is reduce with added resistance? Maybe I can measure it.
And how much is too much resistance that is less "fun"? Okay, I guess it depends on many factors.
No, that delay is so short that it has no relevance - electrical signals move close to the speed of light, not speed of sound. A factor of 100000 difference.
Any inductance (or capacitance) causes a phase shift.
