Hi guys,
Anyone have experience with this amp?
Its my 3 amp from smsl and i have to say it does sound very good , such a small device and huge power, this version is suplied with 35V and 5A power supply which is different to the older one 35V 5.7A
Also this version of amp has smaller caps.
Do you know maybe if there is any room for improvements to get even better sound from it?
Thank you!
Anyone have experience with this amp?
Its my 3 amp from smsl and i have to say it does sound very good , such a small device and huge power, this version is suplied with 35V and 5A power supply which is different to the older one 35V 5.7A
Also this version of amp has smaller caps.
Do you know maybe if there is any room for improvements to get even better sound from it?
Thank you!
In my experience amps always benefit from improvements to the power supply, reducing noise on it particularly by getting lower impedance. A single power supply cap isn't going to have such low impedance as a cap bank so that would be my first enhancement. Find some low ESR capacitors in 10mm or 12.5mm diameter cases from Nippon Chemicon, Nichicon or Samyoung and get soldering!
Smsl seem to have gone downhill a bit in the last year or so in regard to consistency .
Seems to have affected the whole range with various parts, caps,boards, psu 's etc being used for different batches of the same amp .
Thats not to say their bad amps just a bit of a lottery as to which internals you end up getting .
Seems to have affected the whole range with various parts, caps,boards, psu 's etc being used for different batches of the same amp .
Thats not to say their bad amps just a bit of a lottery as to which internals you end up getting .
Thanks for responses,
I didn't want to touch power supply at all as I was thinking about switching to some good brand instead, maybe Meanwell HLG-150H-24V 6.3A. So only physical mods I thought about were jus changing caps inside amp. 3 types of caps: those tiny blue ones rated 0.22uf (u22J63) ,yellow Vishays 1813-5 - input caps? rated 1.0uf 100v and those 2 "biggest one" in amp MKT1820 rated 0.47uf 250V.
any suggestions, is it worth changing them? if yes so which one would be good to pick...
Thank you!
I didn't want to touch power supply at all as I was thinking about switching to some good brand instead, maybe Meanwell HLG-150H-24V 6.3A. So only physical mods I thought about were jus changing caps inside amp. 3 types of caps: those tiny blue ones rated 0.22uf (u22J63) ,yellow Vishays 1813-5 - input caps? rated 1.0uf 100v and those 2 "biggest one" in amp MKT1820 rated 0.47uf 250V.
any suggestions, is it worth changing them? if yes so which one would be good to pick...
Thank you!
Looking at those pictures my immediate thoughts are bin it ! 
The chip in the amp can run up to 39 v but it's unlikely that the components fitted as standard will allow that . Unfortunately i don't know enough to advise on what you would need to upgrade in order to allow this but hopefully someone will post who is more knowledgeable .
The chip in the amp can run up to 39 v but it's unlikely that the components fitted as standard will allow that . Unfortunately i don't know enough to advise on what you would need to upgrade in order to allow this but hopefully someone will post who is more knowledgeable .
i guess sometimes it's better not to look
My Chennel Well psu 's don't look that bad ,the Smsl psu looks like a primary school science project If you are reffering to this main power cap ,so it is a Nichicon LS, are you saying that it would be better to replace this with multi-parraler-low esr caps with same value? or just upgrade it to 1 better quality one ... but Nichicon itself its not bad as far as im aware...
Yest metal housing was there, I just stripped it to take pictures easier
Looking at those pictures my immediate thoughts are bin it !
is it really that bad? are you referring to amp or PSU? guys so there are Caps:
1x Nichicon LS
4x tiny blue ones rated 0.22uf (u22J63)
2x Vishays 1813-5 - (input caps?) 1.0uf 100v
2x MKT1820 0.47uf 250V
any sugestions on replacing them or do not bother... get rid of it and get better one:>
Indeed Class D Amp TDA7498E
Other amp with TDA7498E with better components like Nichicon LS x2 , the Indeed:
[eBay] NEW 2014 Indeed Class D Amp TDA7498E 160WX2 Stereo Amplifier + 36V5A adapter BLK
[PDF] TDA7498E
-> http://www.st.com/content/ccc/resou...df/jcr:content/translations/en.DM00044235.pdf
Output Power at 4 Ohm:
* THD = 10% - 160 watts
* THD = 1% - 125 watts
By graphs,
* THD = 0.1% - 100 watts (about 62.5 watts at 8 Ohm I think).
SVRR Supply voltage rejection ratio fr = 100 Hz, Vr = 0.5 Vpp,
CSVR = 10 µF - 55 dB
Other amp with TDA7498E with better components like Nichicon LS x2 , the Indeed:
[eBay] NEW 2014 Indeed Class D Amp TDA7498E 160WX2 Stereo Amplifier + 36V5A adapter BLK
[PDF] TDA7498E
-> http://www.st.com/content/ccc/resou...df/jcr:content/translations/en.DM00044235.pdf
Output Power at 4 Ohm:
* THD = 10% - 160 watts
* THD = 1% - 125 watts
By graphs,
* THD = 0.1% - 100 watts (about 62.5 watts at 8 Ohm I think).
SVRR Supply voltage rejection ratio fr = 100 Hz, Vr = 0.5 Vpp,
CSVR = 10 µF - 55 dB
Last edited:
Looking at the DS for Nichicon LS range, I see no mention that its a low impedance type of cap. That is assuming its a real Nichicon (my experience is Nichicon is the most likely faked brand of cap). So you're better off fitting a number of smaller valued caps (say 12.5mm diameter can size) - as many as you can get to fit.
Quite so, if its a genuine Nichicon then it won't be a bad cap, just not well suited to an application such as this, where low impedance is paramount. Nichicon HW or HV will be considerably better as they do have specified ESRs which look suitably low.
Save
Two bricks I opened were brand Indeed, the input 400V filtercapacitor failed in both within 2 months not powered permanently, foil of these 400V electrolytics said Nichicon, one had + topvent, the other had tristar like Chemicon, both leaked, one measured 0uF other 4uF. It is better to not have audiophile chinese brick.
I agree. That is why I bought a second-hand (and cheap too) AV Marantz SR4500 to my second system (with PC+ODAC), which sounds much better after passing through my hands:
This morning I added a piece of galvanized steel sheet (not in the photo) to isolate the big EI transformer from the most sensitive electronics.
Last edited:
The LS in amp is 8200uf rated 50V and its 47x25mm
I checked those HW and HV and if i had to keep the same 50V the only choice would be 3x HW 2700uf 50V I stilll should be able to fit them as single measure: 16 × 35.5mm
Ok so let say that this cap is done, what about the others?
HW 2700uf is not available at 35v so do do that I would have to mix 2x3300uf + 1X1800uf , but i wouldnt know what parts needeed changing to lower output so im not sure if its a good idea
Unless someone can provide clear instruction...
There's no reason to try to achieve the same capacitance - more is better in the case of amplifiers. I'd go for the 3900uF/35V and 3 of them in parallel should give you very low ESR.
You can see no preset resistor/trimmer on the PCB of your PSU, near to the output? If not then measure the output voltage see what you've got as standard.
You can see no preset resistor/trimmer on the PCB of your PSU, near to the output? If not then measure the output voltage see what you've got as standard.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.