I’m curious if anyone has successfully added an off-board RESET/NORMAL switch. I would like to move my TPA3255EVM amp to a nice chassis.
I am also thinking of replacing the stock Coilcraft inductors with Coilcraft VER2923-103KL inductors, and the stock Panasonic 10uF SMD electrolytic input caps with Nichicon UCX SMD caps made for high-end audio applications.
I am also thinking of replacing the stock Coilcraft inductors with Coilcraft VER2923-103KL inductors, and the stock Panasonic 10uF SMD electrolytic input caps with Nichicon UCX SMD caps made for high-end audio applications.
DC 12V Relay Module Adjustable Delay Time Switch 0-10 Second NE555 Timer Board 699965758882 | eBay should do the trick, I have not ordered it yet.
My TPA3245 still sits on my desk. I wanted to put it in a chassis a while ago, but couldn't find the time. When I powered it with my LRS150 24V PSU, I've noticed that the PSU emits a rather annoying noise when the EVM board is in reset mode. The idea of putting the amp and that PSU in the same chassis didn't seem that attractive anymore and I've moved the PSU away from my desk so I'm not hearing that noise anymore.
You've probably meant UCQ series.
The RESET switch connection is accessible at pin 10 of the female header J28, so all you should need to do is connect this pin to one side of your external switch, and connect the other side of your switch to pin 22 (GND).
Hi
yes of course..i have the tpa3251EVM board and this is similar. i
guid line EVM says:
Set S1 to the RESET position.
f you want to avoid a on/off plop you have to set the switch on...this set the reset pin to GND for the moment the power supply is running up.
to avoid this you have to deal with an extra circuit -the pic shows the valuse of th chines YJTPA3255 board...so recheck it
at this post i got some advices from DOC to solve my issue: (thanks doc
)https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/309813-wrong-tpa3255-77.html#post5695473
chris
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@gigi: in post 86 TPA3255EVM to complete amp (advise needed) I posted a link for a finished $1 module you can use to hold the reset switch for you. And linuxfan added that you can connect it to the big black pin header (J28) instead of soldering it to the bord in post 88 TPA3255EVM to complete amp (advise needed)
Check you power supply, measure output voltage and/or try an other supply 18V should be enough.
Your bord came in BTL 2 channel mode. You can check the settings with the EVM user guide: http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slou441/slou441.pdf page 6 if they are correct.
These few steps should give you sound.
-Connect 2 speakers to the big terminals.
-Connect a source (in AB and in CD)
-Connect power (and switch on) and the 2 green leds (3.3V 12V) should light up.
-Switch the reset switch to 'normal'
-Turn up the volume from the source.
Check you power supply, measure output voltage and/or try an other supply 18V should be enough.
Your bord came in BTL 2 channel mode. You can check the settings with the EVM user guide: http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slou441/slou441.pdf page 6 if they are correct.
These few steps should give you sound.
-Connect 2 speakers to the big terminals.
-Connect a source (in AB and in CD)
-Connect power (and switch on) and the 2 green leds (3.3V 12V) should light up.
-Switch the reset switch to 'normal'
-Turn up the volume from the source.
I use a double swicht 2NO2NC for power on/off the PSU and switching RESET at the same time.
It works fine.
Hi,
Ive bought 3 tpa3255 modules (from 3e audio) in order to supply two speakers through an active filtering process (85db efficiency at 2.83v, each made of wavecor tw030wa06 4ohm and 2*wf182bd10 8 ohm).
It s design to be the main home sound system, this may be overkill since the efficiency below some watts isn't that good, anyway ...
1) I have yet to choose the right PSU to match these boards. I guess I should pick one within the voltage range explained previously (48V for example), but what about the current supply amount ?
Despite having three board to supply instead of one, each one of them will drive only one woofer or tweeter, instead of the full speaker in a passive design, then I just don't know if in the active configuration the three board will require half or a third of the current that would otherwise be required in a passive setup ? Or should I buy a much larger PSU ?
(I would rather avoid buying three lone PSU...)
2) May some users of the TPA3255 tell me how they set up the soft start / soft stop (for the disturbing sound) and DC protections (to protect the loudspeakers coils) ? And why (price ? easy set up ? easy to use ? efficiency ? class D compability ?)
3) I didn't really get what is the issue with the RESET function you are talking about ? Should we have to activate it at each startup ?? A physical jumper somewhere on the board isn't enough ?
thanks
Ive bought 3 tpa3255 modules (from 3e audio) in order to supply two speakers through an active filtering process (85db efficiency at 2.83v, each made of wavecor tw030wa06 4ohm and 2*wf182bd10 8 ohm).
It s design to be the main home sound system, this may be overkill since the efficiency below some watts isn't that good, anyway ...
1) I have yet to choose the right PSU to match these boards. I guess I should pick one within the voltage range explained previously (48V for example), but what about the current supply amount ?
Despite having three board to supply instead of one, each one of them will drive only one woofer or tweeter, instead of the full speaker in a passive design, then I just don't know if in the active configuration the three board will require half or a third of the current that would otherwise be required in a passive setup ? Or should I buy a much larger PSU ?
(I would rather avoid buying three lone PSU...)
2) May some users of the TPA3255 tell me how they set up the soft start / soft stop (for the disturbing sound) and DC protections (to protect the loudspeakers coils) ? And why (price ? easy set up ? easy to use ? efficiency ? class D compability ?)
3) I didn't really get what is the issue with the RESET function you are talking about ? Should we have to activate it at each startup ?? A physical jumper somewhere on the board isn't enough ?
thanks
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I'm confused -- why do you need 6 channels of power amp for bi-amped stereo?
Also, IMHO, exposing 60W tweeters to an amp ch w/this much power is, at the very least wasteful -- at most, unlikely to survive for very long. Seems like a -3251 or one of the -3110 series would be PLENTY for the tweets.
Cheers,
Rick
Also, IMHO, exposing 60W tweeters to an amp ch w/this much power is, at the very least wasteful -- at most, unlikely to survive for very long. Seems like a -3251 or one of the -3110 series would be PLENTY for the tweets.
Cheers,
Rick
the amp may be used for an other setup later on like a passive 5.1 home theater. I assumed 3 identical amp would be easyer to match, even if the power requierd by the tweeters wouldn't be that huge.
Anyway I do need 6 channel to supply 6 differents loudspeakers in an active filtering design..
So my previous questions are still ongoing, thx
Anyway I do need 6 channel to supply 6 differents loudspeakers in an active filtering design..
So my previous questions are still ongoing, thx
I use a double swicht 2NO2NC for power on/off the PSU and switching RESET at the same time.
It works fine.
Hi Titu,
Your option seems clever and plenty usefull.
Same case for me using TPA3255EVM.
Would you please point a ref to your double swicht 2NO2NC please.
Thanks
This may seem like an odd question, but how come they show an LC filter on the output of the amplifier? Is that because they don't want to assume a crossover is always used on the output?
second question is similar to gigigirl. What would you recommend I use for volume control if I do not use a Pre-amp? I don't want to risk my speakers play at max
second question is similar to gigigirl. What would you recommend I use for volume control if I do not use a Pre-amp? I don't want to risk my speakers play at max
It's a Class D amplifier. The raw output is a high frequency pulse width modulated square wave. The LC filter removes those high frequencies, >200KHz, whilst allowing the, lower frequency < 40KHz, audio signal to pass. Fancy word Reconstruction Filter. Before the amplifier, active crossover, or after the amplifier in the speakers, passive crossover, also act on the audio signal frequencies.
Thanks! So what would you do about volume adjustment? Do you have a go-to method which I could package in the same enclosure I place this amp inside?
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