How do you ground the inputs and outputs of both PSUs without creating a ground loop?
Hey all,
Iam planing a new Amp build based on the TPA3255
i`ll use the Amplifier for my two Klipsch R-28F Speakers.
Main specs of my speakers :
R-28F Floorstanding Speaker | Klipsch
R-28F-Spec-Sheet.pdf
FREQUENCY RESPONSE : 35Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY : 98dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) : 150W/600W
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE : 8 Ohms
LOW FREQUENCY EXTENSION : 32Hz
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY :1800Hz
INPUTS : Dual binding posts / bi-wire / bi-amp
After weeks of reading in the Forums i think ill go with this Board :
Its the HanZao, one of the "better" Chinese Boards
TPA3255 digital power verstarker board high power dual kanal 300W + 300W ultra low verzerrung HIFI mit unabhangige betriebs|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I`ll upgrade caps, op-amps and some stuff on it, in the Future (if i need too)
What do you think about two modules in mono and all The BI-Amping thing.
Worth it with my speakers and the TPA3255 ?
For the PSU i would use this one just in the Single lane version.
500W HIFI Audio LLC Weichen Schalt NETZTEIL Board
Now for the connections, i need multiple inputs.
1 for my high resolution player / 1 for the Raspberry pi / 1 Phono preamp / free input for 3.5mm aux Cable
So i need something Like this input swich
AIYIMA Audio Schalter Eingang Auswahl Bord
is this Recommendet, or is there an other way to doo it, wothout loosing sound qualiy ? maybe something mechanical
Next question would be the Volume Control.
should i just go by a cheap Poti like this : AIYIMA 1 stück EINE 50 karat ALPS Potentiometer Doppel 6-Pin Volumen Potentiometer PCB Board
or this one : Japan ALPS RK27 Volumen LOG Stereo Potentiometer 2-gang Dual 50K/100K/250K Gerändelt Welle + PCB
or the really expansive version like that one :Passive Gleich Lautstärke Preamp Bord RC220 verlustfreie passive gleich lautstärke vorverstärker 16/27 typ potentiometer is it worth it, what are the benefits trom that thing, could not find much information about this.
or are there better solutions for it ?
My Plan for the amp is to add an Vacuum tube Preamp (iam still searching for the one )
wich i could enable with a switch if i want to "warm" the sound a bit. Or just turn it off and go only with the HanZao board.
Any Thaughts to this ?
thanks for your Ideas and inspirations ;-)
Iam planing a new Amp build based on the TPA3255
i`ll use the Amplifier for my two Klipsch R-28F Speakers.
Main specs of my speakers :
R-28F Floorstanding Speaker | Klipsch
R-28F-Spec-Sheet.pdf
FREQUENCY RESPONSE : 35Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY : 98dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) : 150W/600W
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE : 8 Ohms
LOW FREQUENCY EXTENSION : 32Hz
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY :1800Hz
INPUTS : Dual binding posts / bi-wire / bi-amp
After weeks of reading in the Forums i think ill go with this Board :
Its the HanZao, one of the "better" Chinese Boards
TPA3255 digital power verstarker board high power dual kanal 300W + 300W ultra low verzerrung HIFI mit unabhangige betriebs|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I`ll upgrade caps, op-amps and some stuff on it, in the Future (if i need too)
What do you think about two modules in mono and all The BI-Amping thing.
Worth it with my speakers and the TPA3255 ?
For the PSU i would use this one just in the Single lane version.
500W HIFI Audio LLC Weichen Schalt NETZTEIL Board
Now for the connections, i need multiple inputs.
1 for my high resolution player / 1 for the Raspberry pi / 1 Phono preamp / free input for 3.5mm aux Cable
So i need something Like this input swich
AIYIMA Audio Schalter Eingang Auswahl Bord
is this Recommendet, or is there an other way to doo it, wothout loosing sound qualiy ? maybe something mechanical
Next question would be the Volume Control.
should i just go by a cheap Poti like this : AIYIMA 1 stück EINE 50 karat ALPS Potentiometer Doppel 6-Pin Volumen Potentiometer PCB Board
or this one : Japan ALPS RK27 Volumen LOG Stereo Potentiometer 2-gang Dual 50K/100K/250K Gerändelt Welle + PCB
or the really expansive version like that one :Passive Gleich Lautstärke Preamp Bord RC220 verlustfreie passive gleich lautstärke vorverstärker 16/27 typ potentiometer is it worth it, what are the benefits trom that thing, could not find much information about this.
or are there better solutions for it ?
My Plan for the amp is to add an Vacuum tube Preamp (iam still searching for the one )
wich i could enable with a switch if i want to "warm" the sound a bit. Or just turn it off and go only with the HanZao board.
Any Thaughts to this ?
thanks for your Ideas and inspirations ;-)
I use the DCB1 Hot rodded as preamp right now. It gives a warmth sound you can have it with input switch and volume control.
I like it very much!
i ordered Ac-Filter together with the Hanzao amps...
If i look at Mouser for the order of the adapter Soic8 dip8 and the opa1692 i can found different versions. Which version do we need?
Is preamp with volume control)-> dsp-> dac -> Hanzao tpa3255
ok?
Or do we need a volume control or attenuator direct at the Hanzao-Boards?
I like it very much!
i ordered Ac-Filter together with the Hanzao amps...
If i look at Mouser for the order of the adapter Soic8 dip8 and the opa1692 i can found different versions. Which version do we need?
Is preamp with volume control)-> dsp-> dac -> Hanzao tpa3255
ok?
Or do we need a volume control or attenuator direct at the Hanzao-Boards?
Allright... first attempt at the power/output section. It's quite tricky around the tpa pins, especially when one tries to respect jlcpcb's DRC rules. Does it look good enough ?
My concerns are mostly about the pffb lines. I'll run jumpers underneath the board to cross the pvdd arriving from the top. Should they be spaced further away from one another or rather kept close ?
Pictures are seen from the top, with the corresponding groundplane highlighted. Blue is bottom, red top.
Another question while I'm at it... the tpa3255evm has a schotkly diode in serie between pvdd and the lm5010. Should I add one before each of the lmr16006 I plan on using ?
Thanks for any advice.
My concerns are mostly about the pffb lines. I'll run jumpers underneath the board to cross the pvdd arriving from the top. Should they be spaced further away from one another or rather kept close ?
Pictures are seen from the top, with the corresponding groundplane highlighted. Blue is bottom, red top.
Another question while I'm at it... the tpa3255evm has a schotkly diode in serie between pvdd and the lm5010. Should I add one before each of the lmr16006 I plan on using ?
Thanks for any advice.
Attachments
What is the actual concensus on the 3e audio TPA3255 board? I would prefer balanced in. I see there are much cheaper alternatives.
Is the SMPS300RS a good power supply for this board?
Any cheaper alternative for the PS?
I am pondering this TPA3255 or the icepower 125ASX2 for cheap bi-amping.
Thanks!
Is the SMPS300RS a good power supply for this board?
Any cheaper alternative for the PS?
I am pondering this TPA3255 or the icepower 125ASX2 for cheap bi-amping.
Thanks!
You can get the 3E Audio PSUs as well here :
Alimentation electrique Quasi resonnante 300W 36V, 8,5a pour TPA3251 et TPA3255 | AliExpress
Alimentation electrique Quasi resonnante 300W 36V, 8,5a pour TPA3251 et TPA3255 | AliExpress
Thanks!
Looks like the stereo board is not available anymore from 3e audio ali shop. I will wait for new stock.
Hello, I have just finished a build using a LRS-350-36. The amplifier power socked has a fuse holder. LRS-350 datasheet says that typical AC current is 3.4A. Not clear to me what would be the adequate fuse for my application. I expect to pull 4x60W for 8R speakers, power supply trimmed around 32V.
Slow or fast fuses ?
3 Amps ? 5 Amps ?
JMF
Slow or fast fuses ?
3 Amps ? 5 Amps ?
JMF
First of all, be aware that fuses are intended only to protect your home from fire hazard. Even the superfast blow types can not protect a melting transutor amp and never did so.
Your fuse should open in case your electronic shorts the DC-output. In case of smps, current limit is inherent and no secondary circuit fuses are necessary. In case of a linear toroidal supply, 5amp slow blow will be fine, assuming your transformer delivers much more current in case of a short circuit.
Your fuse should open in case your electronic shorts the DC-output. In case of smps, current limit is inherent and no secondary circuit fuses are necessary. In case of a linear toroidal supply, 5amp slow blow will be fine, assuming your transformer delivers much more current in case of a short circuit.
Hello everybody,
I just received three 3eAudio TPA3255-2CH-260W in order to achieve a three-way amplifier to power a diy speaker with active filtering.
For the moment, the choice of power supply arises. I read that in 48V this amp was quite hot. So should I take this into account and turn to 36V power supplies such as a SMPS300RS 36V (x3)?
Another question, even if the volume control will be at the level of the active filtering (minidisp nanoDIGI 2x8 K + 3dac), I was wondering if it would not be also advisable to add a 3-way volume controller on the amplifier himself with a card like this ? (also because this amp will also be used for the design of loudspeakers and you never know ...)
I just received three 3eAudio TPA3255-2CH-260W in order to achieve a three-way amplifier to power a diy speaker with active filtering.
For the moment, the choice of power supply arises. I read that in 48V this amp was quite hot. So should I take this into account and turn to 36V power supplies such as a SMPS300RS 36V (x3)?
Another question, even if the volume control will be at the level of the active filtering (minidisp nanoDIGI 2x8 K + 3dac), I was wondering if it would not be also advisable to add a 3-way volume controller on the amplifier himself with a card like this ? (also because this amp will also be used for the design of loudspeakers and you never know ...)
ok, thanks Dr.
For the power supply, as no one was answering (and I can understand that and absolutely don't blame you) I reread pretty much the entire tread and yes 36V seems to be the right choice.
On the other hand, for the volume control, I need a chip that manages the 6-way .... the two mentioned chips manage the 2 and 4-way and on the Ti website, there is none for the 6-way. In short, I ordered the volume control that I had mentioned and I would see what comes out of it ... but if you have other solutions for me I will stay tuned!
For the power supply, as no one was answering (and I can understand that and absolutely don't blame you) I reread pretty much the entire tread and yes 36V seems to be the right choice.
On the other hand, for the volume control, I need a chip that manages the 6-way .... the two mentioned chips manage the 2 and 4-way and on the Ti website, there is none for the 6-way. In short, I ordered the volume control that I had mentioned and I would see what comes out of it ... but if you have other solutions for me I will stay tuned!
Ok. I'll see, at some point you have to get your hands dirty !
I will post some images once everything is assembled. Also I would have gone with pleasure on your achievements (Jlester, DrMordor) but with a tight budget for this project, I had to make -alas - this choice (3e audio) against my heart...