TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc

Are the opamps getting hot?
No. there is no heating up of opamps.
since today i have replaced the 4700uf caps and put in a smaller 220uf 63v nichicon audio grade cap. (still an upgrade to the 68uf cap or 100uf wirtten on the pcb board. Checked all new soldering(no issues noticed) but cleaned and reinforced. and viola, the amp has started functioning normal.
i cannot pinpoint the reason, either 4700uf in wrong for this implementation or my earlier soldering was bad, or it is too early for me to think the problem is fixed. in middle of house shifting so cannot tinker much. will let it run like this and see if the problem is fixed. :D
if this functions well then will look for solution to the bluetooth relay tripping the moment it deducts any signal.

Thankyou all
 
In a bi-amped speaker system, you have two circuits. One is for the bass and can be measured to have a resistance. This is no problem for an amp, as it means a closed cirquit.
The midd/high section is using an capacitor in line with the tweeter. Here the lower frequency sees basically an open input the lower you get. With bi-amping you have the full frequency range at both amps output, so you drive the low frequency at midd/high without load, which may be problematic and even can destroy the chip.

So, if you want one amp per speaker, use an active x-over like a DSP, which is a superior concept over a passive x-over.

Because the ridiculous prices for passive x-over parts that are charged in the hobby market, (thanks to Mr. Mundorf, who sells copper for the price of precious metalls), an active speaker today is much cheaper, not only better.
Soundwise, the same speaker made active will allways be much better than the same construction with passive parts.
It is only due to marketing that active systems are not broadly used in DIYS. With high quality d-amps and a DSP for around 50$ you have anything for a high end speaker system, without the need for expensive "audio grade" coils, capacitors and resistors. This is much less than passive "quality" components for a pair of 2-way speakers are.
 
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this was the seller i got it from. really good. no problems but for, when its choosing which input to use. i hear the relay click a few times, then it stops on analogue as i mean for it to. no noise, bt works fine.
Finished blue TPA3116 2.1+ wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Digital Power Amplifier 100W+2*50W New-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

not used it much, ill have to listen out for shifts the x-over-frequency next time i use it.... Didn’t know about that problem. i got it to go with my cheapo crapo panasoinc hifi speakers but nice amp boombox project.
pics of crap speakers:
Heh, made a #diy #GhettoBlaster. Using PS10 2rd Panasonic home #hifi...
 
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Thanks. its my i don’t mind sharing it if friends, that is if i had friends that wanted to use it... maybe at a camp... but not localy... anyway. snag is i do mind if something happens to that nice £50 amp + lithium batt pack.

working on a more hifi boom box. hench the tpa3255 2.1 amp ;)

its a par light, spot. not a wash. there is a wash/flood version though ;)

i modded mine so they are powered from usb or 5-32v (i think) dc. instead of mains ac :). Added a wireless dmx module. see my other posts on http://social.aross.me hash tag #mytechproject. there at least one post about my mods to that rgbw led par light :)


Been researching these "10w"~ :/ led wash lights: one of them is supposedly brighter, higher power led. it looks different from other more common design. look carefully and u see. it costs more. i forget which link. started my search a few months ago. been on the project back log.

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If there any more led discussion, i will then start a new discussion thread.
 
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from the seller i got my rgb par light
theres are from same seller and are compatible with each other.
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use a magnet to attach them to steel beams, posts, etc :D

note the firmware is different between different models/sellers. the non IR remote + fan version has diff firmware from ir remote + fan version. if getting other ir remote version, make sure remote looks the same for chance of matching firmware, dmx channels, sound to light.
 
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The second circuit doesnt make sense here and will fry the TPA inputs due to overvoltage.

yes you are right...its bad to show the principle of the circuit with wrong values....


sorry

This circuit is for the TPA3116/8 type.

3251/5 does not have a mute pin.
 

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Well i had "mute" equivalent with "shutdown/reset" in mind.


While the MUTE pin at 3116/3118 is specified for up to PVCC+0.3V, the /RESET pin at TPA324X/5X is specified for 4.2V only. That's why it will stress protection diode (Current limited through the 10k resistor) at the /RESET input for the time intil the Cap is fully charged. (Which duration is limited trough the 110k to ground + some leakage current from input and diode).


A simpler solution for the 3116/3118 would be combining both resistors into one and connect MUTE between diode and capacitor. When choosing R to 750k the C can be as low as 1uF.
 
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Hello, first time posting here, though I've been lurking and reading extensively for a while.

I'm soon to begin construction of an 8 channel power amp using four of 3e Audio's EAUMT-0260-2-A tpa3255 modules.

Power supplies are four MEAN WELL LRS-350-48. I know I could have gone for a single much more powerful supply but it needed to fit in a 1U rack case.

The final system will use six channels to power the tweeters, mids and woofers for some stereo speakers with digital crossovers, and one channel to power a center speaker with it's own passive crossover. One channel will be redundant for now. (sub channel has it's own power amp) I only listen to 2.1 or 3.1 audio.

I have most of the parts including the four modules and two of the four power supplies.

I have some questions that I have not been able to answer through researching this and the other discussions. I'd very much appreciate your help.

1. There has been some discussion in the past about the ability of the LRS-350-48 to hold up during bass heavy music. Is this true or did that turn out to be unfounded?

2. I will have one redundant channel so one TPA3255 module will be half unused. Is it OK to keep that channel open or should I terminate it with a resistor for load?

3. The tweeter channels will barely output any power compared to the woofers. Does it therefore make sense to spread the load on the EAUMT-0260-2-A? So that one module amplifies a woofer channel and a tweeter channel, another does the same, another does both the mids and the final one does the center speaker? I suppose I'm getting at cross talk here - would there be any issues?

4. Finally, the master slave modes for the EAUMT-0260-2-A. I understand how to set this up but is it necessary when using separate power supplies?

Cheers
Dave
 

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1: True
2: terminate the input and put a 16-32R load resistor on the output. (Like 5W ceramic or so)
3: You may try different combinations, i wouldn't expect crosstalk here is having a woofer and a tweeter on one module. (Just because your woofer wont work on tweeter frequencies and vice versa)
4: I'd stick with one master per side. (So 1 master, 1 slave)