TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc

Had my 3e 3255 for well over a year now. It has been out of action whilst I finally implement in a chassis and finalise the PSU.

So I have an overkill unregulated PSU....525VA 35V...giving 49vdc. 2200uF caps with 0.1uf film bypass.

Replaced the onboard filter caps with larger 63v 1200uf Pana FC x5.

Output filter caps replaced with Wima 0.47uf

Just got it testing tonight but it works again and is sounding very good...albeit just Jerry rigged up on the floor.


Monitoring amp temps as 48V does make it quite hot . Output inductors and the chip heatsink are very warm....can hold fingers on indefinitely but it gets a bit uncomfortable


A real breadboard Amplifier !!
 

I bought one of these. Unfortunately, the sound wasn't great.
It was lacking bass, and the vocals were too hash. It wasn't musical compared to my modded lepai 2020, which I had to replace due to a dead channel.
I'm running a 200W 48v linear psu, toned down to 46v.

It does feature Nichicon capacitor and some Samwha caps, but the rest are pretty generic.

I'll try to replace:
- 105J100 with Wima MKS 1uF 100V
- NE5532 with OPA1622

There are a couple of 10uF caps, 5 of them between the pot and the opamp, and 4 of them between the opamp and the chip. Any idea what are the min voltage requirements?

I see that @chermann recommends Bipolar MUSE ES UES1C470MPM rated 16v for between the inputs and opamp but I'm not sure whether bipolar caps will work here.

And @xrk971 recommends 10uF 35v Elna Silmic II for the ones between the opamp and pot.

The inputs have a max of +/-3.9V so I think it should be sufficient, can anyone confirm?

Any recommendation for other components?
 

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I bought one of these. Unfortunately, the sound wasn't great.
It was lacking bass, and the vocals were too hash. It wasn't musical compared to my modded lepai 2020, which I had to replace due to a dead channel.
I'm running a 200W 48v linear psu, toned down to 46v.

It does feature Nichicon capacitor and some Samwha caps, but the rest are pretty generic.

I'll try to replace:
- 105J100 with Wima MKS 1uF 100V
- NE5532 with OPA1622

There are a couple of 10uF caps, 5 of them between the pot and the opamp, and 4 of them between the opamp and the chip. Any idea what are the min voltage requirements?

I see that @chermann recommends Bipolar MUSE ES UES1C470MPM rated 16v for between the inputs and opamp but I'm not sure whether bipolar caps will work here.

And @xrk971 recommends 10uF 35v Elna Silmic II for the ones between the opamp and pot.

The inputs have a max of +/-3.9V so I think it should be sufficient, can anyone confirm?

Any recommendation for other components?

Thanks for sharing picture.
Seems you do not have the same version of mine, as already discussed here : TPA3251d2

Those last versions have low quality caps.
If you are looking for great OP Amps, get some OPA1656.

definitely: The Aiyima TPA3251 is a big deal with those OPA1656.

TPA3251d2

IMG-20200130-122950.jpg
 
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Yes, that is sad, as I bought the same model from the store you mentioned. Seems like they are using different caps for different batches.

Have you tried your TPA3255 amp with the OPA1656? Because I saw that you used OPA1622 and many here recommend this opamp as well.
That is why I thought of pairing my TPA3255 with the OPA1622 too.
 
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3e TPA3255 rocks

I just got my TPA3255.... and WTF it rocks....


I use 4 JBL AC2212/95 and just amazing what amount of power I can get from my 36V Li-Ion pack.




I have also ordered the TPA3255 mono for my 15" sub and the ADAU1701 DSP.


It would be a very very powerful battery driven combo^^
 

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I bought one of these. Unfortunately, the sound wasn't great.
It was lacking bass, and the vocals were too hash. It wasn't musical compared to my modded lepai 2020, which I had to replace due to a dead channel.
I'm running a 200W 48v linear psu, toned down to 46v.

It does feature Nichicon capacitor and some Samwha caps, but the rest are pretty generic.

I'll try to replace:
- 105J100 with Wima MKS 1uF 100V
- NE5532 with OPA1622

There are a couple of 10uF caps, 5 of them between the pot and the opamp, and 4 of them between the opamp and the chip. Any idea what are the min voltage requirements?

I see that @chermann recommends Bipolar MUSE ES UES1C470MPM rated 16v for between the inputs and opamp but I'm not sure whether bipolar caps will work here.

And @xrk971 recommends 10uF 35v Elna Silmic II for the ones between the opamp and pot.

The inputs have a max of +/-3.9V so I think it should be sufficient, can anyone confirm?

Any recommendation for other components?


I have the identical unit with the later batch Samwha caps. The later batches also used a much smaller (physically) capacitor at the Output filter.

I agree with you that it was a bit lacking until I upgraded the Op-Amps to OPA1656. I also tried the OPA1622 which are very similar but I feel happier with the OPA1656. Much better sound stage and the whole presentation is "sweeter". I am not a big Bass man but it seems to power my KEF Uni-Q Speakers without problem.

I use a Mean Well LRS-200-24 SMPS Power Supply turned up to about 30 volts. This combination works very well.

From some of the earlier parts of this thread, some people have said upgrading the output Inductors to Coilcraft or Wurth might be a better investment than some of the other upgrades and that these should be changed first.

These little Aiyima Are really great for the price but physically they are very tight inside for doing any serious upgrades - There just isn't the space !!

Just upgrading the Op-Amps has given me what I need for everyday use.

James.
 
My e3 board has bad chengx km 63V 1000uF caps. Only 16mm caps would fit.


I don't know if I should put United Chemi-Con's KYB or others. At output MKPs are to big to fit. You can have RM5 or RM10 for filter.


I have MKS2 63V 1uF 5% (MKS2C041001F00JSSD) in stock. I don't know if it would be really better than stock and the are only 63V instead of 100V.
 
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As these opamps presumably (at least they do in the TI boards) are running on single supply, there's no need for bipolar or non-polar 'lytics. On the contrary, these usually are far inferior than polarized ones.
Berst regards!

OPA1656 are FET-Input
OPA1622 are Bi Polar
OPA1612 are also great : Bi Polar.
Burson V5i : are FET-input with hybrid architecture (IC and discrete)

Best results = OPA1656 and Burson V5i for me with the Aiyima TPA3251

I am in negotiation to get a very high end (top of line) TPA3251 based on 360 customs design. It is the flagship of the TPA32XX boards but they are really expensive. Fingers X :D:D Should get it within 2 weeks.

TPA3255 / TPA3251 / TPA3245 universel - un pour tous - #360customs

By the way, with these top end boards, you can see the impact between Inductors / THD below.
As bushellj also said : potential quality of OP amps are linked to the quality of the inductors
Other important point TPA32XX with PFFB perform really better.

inductor_cmp.png
 
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OPA1656 are FET-Input
OPA1622 are Bi Polar
OPA1612 are also great : Bi Polar.
Burson V5i : are FET-input with hybrid architecture (IC and discrete)

Best results = OPA1656 and Burson V5i for me with the Aiyima TPA3251

I am in negotiation to get a very high end (top of line) TPA3251 based on 360 customs design. It is the flagship of the TPA32XX boards but they are really expensive. Fingers X :D:D Should get it within 2 weeks.

TPA3255 / TPA3251 / TPA3245 universel - un pour tous - #360customs

By the way, with these top end boards, you can see the impact between Inductors / THD below.
As bushellj also said : potential quality of OP amps are linked to the quality of the inductors
Other important point TPA32XX with PFFB perform really better.

inductor_cmp.png


Kay was talking about Bipolar Capacitors.

A Bipolar capacitor is a non-polarised ("non polar") capacitor that has no implicit polarity -- it can be connected either way in a circuit. Unlike the normal electrolytic capacitors that are polarised and need to be the right way round.

Generally it appears they are not the best choice in audio circuits !!
 
Kay was talking about Bipolar Capacitors.

A Bipolar capacitor is a non-polarised ("non polar") capacitor that has no implicit polarity -- it can be connected either way in a circuit. Unlike the normal electrolytic capacitors that are polarised and need to be the right way round.

Generally it appears they are not the best choice in audio circuits !!

Sorry for my misunderstanding.... my god I need to improve my English skill :confused:

Hope you are doing well bushellj ) ?
 
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Did anyone attempt to upgrade components on the TPA3255 3e board such as op amp and capacitors?I searched but could not find anything specific.

I've added more and 'better' capacitance in the form of Pana FC 1200uF 63v x5. I also. Hanged the LC filter caps to 1uf Wima to better suit the impedance of my speakers. Fed from a stiff unregulated power supply. Sounds awesome!
Not sure what these changes bring in outright improvements as it has been out of my system for some time ...currently using a Teac Tripath which does amazing things for the cost of it....but when I plugged in the modded 3255 to see if I had managed to break it or not it did sound very good
 

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I've added more and 'better' capacitance in the form of Pana FC 1200uF 63v x5. I also. Hanged the LC filter caps to 1uf Wima to better suit the impedance of my speakers. Fed from a stiff unregulated power supply. Sounds awesome!
Not sure what these changes bring in outright improvements as it has been out of my system for some time ...currently using a Teac Tripath which does amazing things for the cost of it....but when I plugged in the modded 3255 to see if I had managed to break it or not it did sound very good




which capacitors you used? MKS?


Looks good.



Are they easy to desolerd without any damage on the PCB?
 
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The black mask of the PCB is easily scratched I found. Actual desoldering wasnt too bad on the elcos, trickier on the films for some reason.

The '5th' FC is in one of the power connection locations. A 6th could take place of the 1 remaining connector and solder power direct to a cap leads on the bottom I guess. Would look more balanced atleast!

On the Wimas.....not sure....let me check.

Edit.....MKS2 I believe
 
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