TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc

Where is the link to the TPA3251 amplifier you want to buy? What is the maximum voltage the seller / manufacturer indicates?
You have shown that you want a more powerful amplifier than the current one, I recommend you keep thinking about buying the TPA3255 which is more powerful.

I can only find it on aliexpress AIYIMA TPA3251 HiFi Digital Audio Amplifier 175W*2 High Power Amplifier NE5532 2.0 Channel AMP DIY Super TDA7498E/TPA3116|Amplifier| - AliExpress

The thing is that the amp can't be bought from a european store and i didn't find any similar product from a european store.

Fast shipping 7-15 days almost 21 euros, the amp close too 40 euros and if they caught it, i have to pay 25% import duty,taxes (50 euros) and a handeling fee of 22 euros, thats 21 for shipping,40 for the amp, 10 for import duty and 22 for the handeling fee = 93 euros for an amp that cost 40 euros without shipping

+ a 21 euro power supply witch adds 21 euros or 26 euros if i have to pay import duty worst case senario 119 euros (+ what ever extra i might have to pay for fast shipping)
 
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Pay attention to the fact that the power supply for him is from 18V to MAXIMUM 35V, 32V is recommended.

I still believe that the most suitable for you is a TPA3255 and a 48V supply if the manufacturer / seller indicates or states that this voltage can be used.
Some models of TPA3255 come with a 12V regulator that does not support more than 40V, so it is important to ask the seller what the maximum working voltage of the amplifier is.
 

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So fare this one (have thought about the Aiyima AO4 (tpa3251)since it should have no pop noise when you turn it on and off, have heard that TPA3251 is best for 4 ohm speakers and that tpa3255 is best for 8ohm speakers which mine are rated at)

Amplifier Stereo Class D TPA3255 2x225W 4 Ohm - Audiophonics



So fare this power adapter,supply for convenience, plug and play

FX-AUDIO AC/DC Switching Power Adapter 100-240V AC vers 36V 6A DC - Audiophonics

Audiophonics have this 48 volt power supply

MEAN WELL LRS-350-48 Switch Power Supply 48V 7.3A 350W - Audiophonics

Take care guys... non anti pop on this TPA3255 Amplifier !
I own many Class D Amps, Hypex Ncore, Pascal Pro, TPA3255 (Customs 360 design), BRZhifi TPA3255, Aiyma 3251, 3E Audio, Zero Zone TPA3255 etc...

If you are looking for the best TPA325X Amp : go for 360 Customs / Dr Mordor or XRK with PFFB (no compromise here) ! They are more expansive but they sound better than any Chinese TPA32XX including 3E Audio.
And already said in my previous reviews : they will have about 30% more in term of volume than Chinese Amp.

If you have a limited budget, the Ayima 3251 (Tilear 2.1 with red robe caps) version with OPA1656 or Burson V5i upgrade + inductors Update is the best with a 35V / 6A PSU works great.
 
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Pay attention to the fact that the power supply for him is from 18V to MAXIMUM 35V, 32V is recommended.

I still believe that the most suitable for you is a TPA3255 and a 48V supply if the manufacturer / seller indicates or states that this voltage can be used.
Some models of TPA3255 come with a 12V regulator that does not support more than 40V, so it is important to ask the seller what the maximum working voltage of the amplifier is.

In another thread someone mentioned the Aiyima A04 3251 amp having close too 60 watt with a 30 VDC/5A desktop switching power supply, it's not alot more than my 30-35 watt i have should have in 8 ohm but i have come to feel that my amp is quiet powerful for it's size and power supply, after i have tried different generes of music and volume the last day or two.

Meaning if i, let's just use the 60 watt Aiyima A04 3251 amp, play within the power of my current amp, i would have a little more dynamic headroom and a cleaner sound, simply because i don't have to push the amp to it's limit a few times every week when i feel the need to play some songs loud

It's nice to have a little extra power for the bass or if i play some dynamic music that the amp doesn't struggle to much. (kraftwerk,yellow)
 
Take care guys... non anti pop on this TPA3255 Amplifier !
I own many Class D Amps, Hypex Ncore, TPA3255 (Customs 360 design), BRZhifi TPA3255, Aiyma 3251, 3E Audio etc...

If you are looking for the best TPA325X Amp : go for 360 Customs / Dr Mordor or XRK (no compromise here) ! They are more expansive but they sound better than any Chinese TPA32XX including 3E Audio.

If you have a limited budget, the Ayima 3251 (Tilear 2.1) version with OPA1656 or Burson V5i is the best with a 35V / 6A PSU works great.

I bought the 3e version B.
I think it has a good cost x benefit ratio because it is a PCB apparently well made, a heatsink apparently well sized, in short, I liked it more than the other options found on Aliexpress.
If it has a very strong POP when turning on the power, I install a reset button on the panel.
 
Pay attention to the fact that the power supply for him is from 18V to MAXIMUM 35V, 32V is recommended.

I still believe that the most suitable for you is a TPA3255 and a 48V supply if the manufacturer / seller indicates or states that this voltage can be used.
Some models of TPA3255 come with a 12V regulator that does not support more than 40V, so it is important to ask the seller what the maximum working voltage of the amplifier is.

Take care guys... non anti pop on this TPA3255 Amplifier !
I own many Class D Amps, Hypex Ncore, Pascal Pro, TPA3255 (Customs 360 design), BRZhifi TPA3255, Aiyma 3251, 3E Audio, Zero Zone TPA3255 etc...

If you are looking for the best TPA325X Amp : go for 360 Customs / Dr Mordor or XRK with PFFB (no compromise here) ! They are more expansive but they sound better than any Chinese TPA32XX including 3E Audio.
And already said in my previous reviews : they will have about 30% more in term of volume than Chinese Amp.

If you have a limited budget, the Ayima 3251 (Tilear 2.1 with red robe caps) version with OPA1656 or Burson V5i upgrade + inductors Update is the best with a 35V / 6A PSU works great.

I found the amp, it just sounds as if the amp has channel inbalance at low levels (commenst in the link), im lucky with my fosi amp not to have any pop noise at all when i turn my amp on or off, im also lucky not to have any channel inbalance at low levels, these 2 things i want to avoid.

Google Oversaet
 
I have absolutely no clue what a reset button on a amp is, can someone please explain it to me and what it does ?

I am not the best person to explain, but as I understand it, on TPA3255 when triggering the reset, you eliminate POP noise when turning on / off.
I think it works like a mute button.
When my PCB 3e arrives I can test this reset function and explain better what this RESET function does.
 
The reset button on my TPA3255EVM has never been touched. It’s my understanding it functions to protect the amp from overloads. If it is tripped, pressing it restores operation. As has been mentioned, using it as part of the power on/power off cycle prevents thumps.

Since I leave the amp powered on 24/7, I’ve never needed to use the reset button for the thump issue. I’ve been unable to trip it, as the volume from my extremely efficient horn-loaded speakers would overwhelm my small space well before taxing the amp.

It’s a good thing it never trips, as it’s installed in a case, and it would be a royal PITA if it needed to be reset.
 
The reset button on my TPA3255EVM has never been touched. It’s my understanding it functions to protect the amp from overloads. If it is tripped, pressing it restores operation. As has been mentioned, using it as part of the power on/power off cycle prevents thumps.

Since I leave the amp powered on 24/7, I’ve never needed to use the reset button for the thump issue. I’ve been unable to trip it, as the volume from my extremely efficient horn-loaded speakers would overwhelm my small space well before taxing the amp.

It’s a good thing it never trips, as it’s installed in a case, and it would be a royal PITA if it needed to be reset.

Is your amplifier really connected 24 x 7?
What power supply do you use?
 
Yes. Mean Well LRS-350-48. It has a thermally activated fan that has never turned on.

My TPA3118 “Wiener” amp was pressed into service months ago to power my TV speakers when an ancient Onkyo AVR died. It uses a 12v brick. They too are on 24/7.

Advantages of class D ..
If they were class A, you would need a power plant just to keep them in iddle. ;-)
And it would have 24 x 7 heaters.
 
A general method for realizing a class D amplifier is a method using pulse width modulation (PWM) technology.

This method consists of three circuit blocks, a PWM modulator, two output power MOSFETs, and a low-pass filter. First, in a PWM modulator, a PWM signal is created by comparing an audio input signal with a reference signal using a triangular wave. The amplitude of the audio input signal is reflected in the pulse width of the PWM signal. It then uses two output power MOSFETs to amplify the audio signal. Specifically, a relatively high voltage is switched at the timing of the pulse width of the PWM signal. By doing so, a PWM signal with a large voltage amplitude can be obtained. Finally, the PWM signal is passed through a low-pass filter to cut high-frequency components and obtain the output audio signal.
At this time, the wave height of the PWM signal is directly affected by the fluctuation of the power supply voltage. The fluctuation is larger than that of a general analog amplifier.
 
A general method for realizing a class D amplifier is a method using pulse width modulation (PWM) technology.

This method consists of three circuit blocks, a PWM modulator, two output power MOSFETs, and a low-pass filter. First, in a PWM modulator, a PWM signal is created by comparing an audio input signal with a reference signal using a triangular wave. The amplitude of the audio input signal is reflected in the pulse width of the PWM signal. It then uses two output power MOSFETs to amplify the audio signal. Specifically, a relatively high voltage is switched at the timing of the pulse width of the PWM signal. By doing so, a PWM signal with a large voltage amplitude can be obtained. Finally, the PWM signal is passed through a low-pass filter to cut high-frequency components and obtain the output audio signal.
At this time, the wave height of the PWM signal is directly affected by the fluctuation of the power supply voltage. The fluctuation is larger than that of a general analog amplifier.
 
For future reference and in case anybody wants a nice 2.1 amplifier, I managed to put one of the chips into PBTL mode on the following board.

jvKHFHy.jpg


It was clear that the board had been designed to allow of changing of modes, but I was not able to get my hands on any documentation.
So I might have done it the wrong way, but the amplifier is working great now in PBTL/mono mode. I basically just had to ground one input and change the Mode2-pin of the chip.

You can see below here how I have managed to do it. Red are components which must be removed. Green are added shorts (solder).

iji7Szt.png


M3cqHxU.png
 
Yes - just recently, and the results are wonderful!

The full story is messy - originally I had a TPA3250EVM, and I did multiple modifications to this board before powering it up - only to find it was faulty. I assumed that one of my mods killed the board, but I now realise that the main problem was a faulty external 12V power supply, and the amp was probably OK.
Lesson learned too late.

I now have a 3e-audio TPA3251 board, and just recently bypassed the opamps to connect the outputs of my balanced DAC.

Just changed my several thousand € costing DIY tube preamp with 16kg separate PSU to OPA2209 (gain) & OPA2227 (buffer). Result: Much improved sound quality, so much more detail, air & space. So much lower distortion and much more consistent performance. Despite that no more regular measurements, heat, high-voltage, tube breakdown, hiss, tube matching etc.
 
Just changed my several thousand € costing DIY tube preamp with 16kg separate PSU to OPA2209 (gain) & OPA2227 (buffer). Result: Much improved sound quality, so much more detail, air & space. So much lower distortion and much more consistent performance. Despite that no more regular measurements, heat, high-voltage, tube breakdown, hiss, tube matching etc.

I am using 4 OP Amps in my double DAK4497 : OPA1612 + OPA1656 and OPA1656 in my TPA3251 Amp. The whole mix is excellent as well )