I AM D v200, Fx Audio d802, optimisation and TPA3116

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I just bought one D8 XMOS version for myself, and one D8 PCM2704 version for my parents, for TV listening via optical s/pdif.
I opened up the PCM2704 version, revoved the USB daughterboard, and it appears that only the GND and SPD connections go anywhere (to the Pulse transformer).
So even though the USB interface may provide I2S output, these outputs go nowhere.

Darn, I was hoping to use direct I2S input at a later stage - for an HDMI-I2S interface.

Now I wonder if ALL inputs of D8 go through WM8805, although the ADC on AUX does not seem to be capable of S/PDIF output.
Yes, it appears to me that the I2S outputs of the AK5358 ADC chip are connected, but they cross to the underside of the board, and I can't trace where they go to.
So maybe we could use these points to insert our own I2S signal?

AK5358 Pin 9 SDTO can be tapped at the bottom leg of U8 - I don't know what this IC is - I think it's marked as "ZF7V".
AK5358 Pin 10 LRCK can be tapped at R40.
AK5358 Pin 12 SCLK can be tapped at R38.
 
AK5358 Pin 9 SDTO can be tapped at the bottom leg of U8 - I don't know what this IC is - I think it's marked as "ZF7V".

I could not identify this chip either. But, judging by the photos I have (sorry, just don't want to dismantle the device and deprive myself of music), this looks like a MUX of some sort which switches between I2S data lines from the ADC and the S/PDIF codec. The latter seems to provide I2S master clock for all other audio chips around here along with bit and word clocks.

P.S. Maybe it would be better to move recent messages to the thread dedicated to D8.
 
I've tried the AUX route.
removed the AKM5358 and connected LRCLK/R40 and BCLK/R38.
MCLK (coming from the DIYINHK Xmos board) goes to R33 which is labelled (marked 100 - ohms?) but curiously the MCLK pin of the WM8805 goes to a different looking resistor (a lot of pins on the board look to be connected to 100ohm resistors.
it's a little curious because the MCLK traces join up before heading to the ST326 - so why might these resistors be different from each other?...
also the WM8805's CLKOUT runs around to connect with it's MCLK pin.
although the datasheet indicates MCLK is generated internally (via crystal into XIN) and the MCLK pin is an output, I cut the CLKOUT trace to it and sure enough it stopped the sound (USB).
so MCLK for the board was actually an input fed by CLKOUT and I hope I have replaced it with the DIYINHK one by cutting the trace.
lastly, the Data line I connected to the mux output leg heading to ST326 since the access was easier.
but since there's no sound yet I will change that tomorrow to the input mux leg as connected to the AKM5358 previously.
is there anything else above that might be the show stopper?
 
when selecting the source for the D8 by repeatedly pressing the volume knob one notes the list is in chinese.
is there an english menu?
I didn't check which selection was AUX before I removed the AKM chip :rolleyes:
so, can someone let me know which option is AUX, relative to the chinese label which includes 'USB' !
I've tried all the other 3 but since nothing works yet I'd rather not have to go through
the rigmarole each test.
 
when selecting the source for the D8 by repeatedly pressing the volume knob one notes the list is in chinese.
is there an english menu?
There is. Just RTFM. It is easier to switch sources with the remote though.

As far as I understood, the USB XMOS daughterboard in Alientek D8 feeds its signal to WM8805 via an S/PDIF line marked "SPD" alongside two other lines from two external S/PDIF inputs. Then WM8805 converts whichever input is chosen into I2S and the data line from that goes to a 6-pin MUX chip marked "U8". That MUX chooses between this line and another one coming from the ADC at the AUX input. I know, this is sick, but it seems to work just fine.
 
thanks. got the gf to do it. required counting a word list to get the option number and fortunately it didn't miss any out :)

> As far as I understood, ....
that much I found out after a previous post in this thread suggested it might be an easy i2s inlet.
after seeing the PCM5122 I misunderstood by imagining that the RCA lines were _outputs_ rather than inputs - after all, doesn't the STM326 do the PCM conversion?
but re-reading this thread I realised the AUX was input and guaranteed an enabled i2s input to the STM326 (albeit via a mux).
so I've looked at the datasheets, followed the traces and can see what goes where but I'm not an electronics bod and don't understand, for instance, whether I need to connect the DIYINHK i2s outputs before the resistors on the D8 traces or directly to the traces going to the STM326 (i2s related ones).
intuition said keep the resistors in as if doing a straight swap from AKM5358 to DIYINHK lines (but one complication is that
the BCLK and LRCLK were coming _into_ the AKM through resistors. And MCLK was coming directly from CLKOUT of the WM8805 ...)
so I could really use some help in reviewing what I've done above to identify possible reasons why it's not working yet.
the amp still works with USB input if I bridge the trace cut of CLKOUT > MCLK and shows
me I haven't burnt out the mux chip or the WM8805 with my awful soldering thank goodness.

update to my prior write-up: have reconnected DIYINHK data line to the AUX leg of the mux
as I should have done from the beginning. no change in the patient though.....
 
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I replaced my soldered UTP cable (two halves joined with a coupler perhaps too long at 50cm)
with short jumper leads and matters have improved:
playing a 44.1Khz/16 track yields a very music-like spectrum display on the D8... but no sound!
however, for some reason it is interpreting the track as 96Khz, though the DIYINHK OLED meter confirms it's passing through 44.1Khz.
my guess is that there is a problem from the original MCLK of the D8 derived from a 12Mhz crystal while the DIYINHK board has both 24.576 and 22.5792Mhz.
and ideas welcome.
 
I.AM.D V200BT: Bluetooth module upgrade

Hi all,

I'm a new I.AM.D V200BT owner, and I'm wondering if anyone has upgraded the amp's Bluetooth capability with something like the following:

CSR8675 Bluetooth 5.0 Module I2S Digital Audio Output Support APTX HD -in Wireless Module from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

I do wish they'd have made that sort of thing more easily user-replaceable for upgrade purposes, but if I have to do a little soldering (more likely I'll take it to a tech) so be it.

Kind regards,
Bill... :cool:

P.S. If anyone has any insights on what I'm proposing, please feel free.
 
Don't assume the CSR8675 is going to be an upgrade. I've already tried it and found numerous issues (crackle, dropouts, locked volume, refusing to pair with some phones, etc) so mine is gathering dust and I use CSR8670 with zero issues. The CSR64215 is also good.
 
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And whats the verdict on the D310?

I own a modified D802 and like it a lot!

However my OB's need more power if I turn up the volume. So I am thinking of buying a D310.

There is not a lot of info in this thread on that amp, is it comparable to its smaller brother D200V? Is there an other higher output contender?

Alternatively I would be looking at a Wadia powerdac yet is has the same (limited) power as the D802 combined with better build etc.

Thanks for chipping in?
Peter
 
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