I AM D v200, Fx Audio d802, optimisation and TPA3116

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Hi everyone,

Is it normal with the D802 that it is dead-silent with nothing playing back, but if you play an audio file even of pure silence, you get some hiss coming through your speakers?

I was able to minimize the hiss by setting these settings in Windows, but i'm hoping i can cut most of the rest of it out.

It's inaudible during medium or loud music, but during silent or near silent parts it's bugging me a lot!

attached files are windows audio settings for minimizing the hiss sound... a few settings were more noisy than default (just 44.1 and 48khz selected, and set to 16 bit 44100khz)
 

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So here is a little how to for the D802 auto mute (click) fix. I'm using it on the D802C, but it should also work with the D802.

Needed:

- ESP8266-01 Module
- A Programmer or USB2Serial adapter (3.3V!), see my post before
- 5 wires
- A diode (1N4001, 1N4150, ...), we need 0.7V drop

We need this diode, because the ESP8266 is 3.3V and not 5V tolerant, but maybe it works without this diode.


Programming the ESP8266:

To put the program onto the ESP8266 you have to install the Arduino IDE. Inside the Arduino IDE you have to install the ESP8266 platform. A good tutorial can be found here:

ESP8266 - Easiest way to program so far (Using Arduino IDE)
GitHub - esp8266/Arduino: ESP8266 core for Arduino

In the Arduino IDE, load my code and press the check mark to compile. If there are no errors, connect the ESP and programmer/serial interface and upload the code by pressing the arrow button.


Wiring the ESP8266 to the D802:

Near the OLED display there are 5 solder pads (GND, SDA, SCL, 5V, 3.3V), here we have the I2C bus. Also we need one pad near the rotary encoder (on a DMM you should get about 4.3V here). On my photo I soldered some pin headers here.

Wiring ESP -> D802:

GND -> GND
VCC -> 3.3V
GPIO2 -> SDA
GPIO0 -> SDL
CH_PD -> Pad near rotary encoder (need a diode here!)

Put the ESP8266 near the D802 MCU should be a good place.


Optionally:

Break out the red LED from the ESP8266 using a small screwdriver. This LED is to indicate power on, but otherwise useless and only draws some mA.


How it works:

If the CH_PD of the ESP8266 goes to high, the ESP8266 will start running (blue LED of the D802 is on). The pad near the rotary encoder gives about 4.3V when the blue LEDs are on. (The LEDs are switched by a transistor, so we have already about 0.7V drop here, 4.3V = 5.0V - 0.7V). So we use simply a diode to get another 0.7V drop here and the CH_PD will get about 3.6V, which should be ok for the ESP8266. On the 4.3V pad there is also a 1k resistor, so this pad is perfect to indicate the D802 is switched on.

On start up, the program waits 5s, then reads the conf D register (0x03) from the STA326 (0x1a), clears the ZDE bit (auto mute) and write it back to the STA326. After that the program reads conf D again and checks if the ZDE is still disabled. The program gives some output to the RX/TX pins, so you can connect it to a serial monitor (115200bps) to see if everything is ok. At least you can see the RX/TX output by some flashes of the blue LED on the ESP8266, so you can see if the program is working.
After that, the ESP8266 goes to sleep an will only wake up by reset or CH_PD goes to high. The WIFI will be completely disabled.


With that trick we can set some other options of the STA326, but maybe that is not reliable.

Has anyone installed this mode on the FX-D802C Pro model? I have the Pro and get the pop because of the automute so would love to disable this. It's especially bad for the speaker level input I use to my sub.

Unfortunately the Pro model uses a slightly different PCB and the I2C pads aren't there, see attached pic. I've hunted all over the board and can't find any pads with the I2C labels for GND, SDA, SDL, or 3.3V. J6 does have a GND as tested with my multimeter, but is showing 4.7V on 2 other pins so I'm not sure if that could be I2C or not. It's only 4 pins.

Keen to know if anyone else has had any luck disabling the automute or stopping the pop on the Pro model?
 

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How to enable/disable +20db gain whith I.AM.D V200

Thanks, but there is no "Tone" button. Neither can I find any tone/EQ settings. There are 6 buttons on the remote:
POWER
CH
EQ (which is actually CH-)
MUTE
VOL+
VOL-

On the front of the amplifier is a single power button, and a rotary dial.
Turning the rotary dial increases/decreases the volume.
Turning the rotary dial while pressing it inwards changes input selection.

The single-page instructions make no reference to EQ or tone, but they they do refer to a "hidden" gain setting -

I cannot decode this Chinese English, and there is no combination of button presses which give any such result.
My front panel always displays "+ 0db"



Hello,

- In case of wanna enable +20db gain.
First, Pull out 5.5mm bullet plug of your AMP.
Second, Push the power button hold down only and then plug in the 5.5 bullet plug and wait untill screen "+20db" only show.
If you saw "+20db", Release all button and wait until booting.


- In case of wanna disable +20db gain.
First, Pull out 5.5 bullet plug of your AMP.
Second, Push the power button and knob button together hold down and then plug in the 5.5mm bullet plug and wait untill screen "0db" only show.(This could be hard operation.)
If you saw "0db", Release all button and wait until booting.

My English is not good, but I hope you could be decoded Korean English:)
 
Hello,

- In case of wanna enable +20db gain.
First, Pull out 5.5mm bullet plug of your AMP.
Second, Push the power button hold down only and then plug in the 5.5 bullet plug and wait untill screen "+20db" only show.
If you saw "+20db", Release all button and wait until booting.


- In case of wanna disable +20db gain.
First, Pull out 5.5 bullet plug of your AMP.
Second, Push the power button and knob button together hold down and then plug in the 5.5mm bullet plug and wait untill screen "0db" only show.(This could be hard operation.)
If you saw "0db", Release all button and wait until booting.

My English is not good, but I hope you could be decoded Korean English:)


For me this worked the exact opposite way! The first method enabled +20dB on each of my V200s.



I have two V200s, the basic versions without wifi or bluetooth. Both are XMOS devices.
 
Errr....apologies. SouthKR was correct and it's me who got it the opposite way (I may be stupid or cross eyed, or both). SouthKR's advice is good.


Anyway the procedure works on the XMOS V200s. Mine were both sold as 2017 devices. I didn't open the cases to check version numbers. One is seen by ALSA as XMOS Clover AUDIO and the other as HU200 HiFi 2.0 but these appear to be functionally identical XMOS boards and each has the same device ID with the linux command `lsusb`.
 
Hi everyone,

Is it normal with the D802 that it is dead-silent with nothing playing back, but if you play an audio file even of pure silence, you get some hiss coming through your speakers?

I was able to minimize the hiss by setting these settings in Windows, but i'm hoping i can cut most of the rest of it out.

It's inaudible during medium or loud music, but during silent or near silent parts it's bugging me a lot!

attached files are windows audio settings for minimizing the hiss sound... a few settings were more noisy than default (just 44.1 and 48khz selected, and set to 16 bit 44100khz)
The hiss could be as a result of embedded Windows mixer dithering. Did you have the same hiss during playback with WASAPI Exclusive in Foobar2000 or smth?
 
Is it normal with the D802 that it is dead-silent with nothing playing back, but if you play an audio file even of pure silence, you get some hiss coming through your speakers ?
Yes it is "normal": It has a bad (real) S/N ratio, because of the 150khz switching regulator (no noise reduction optimization) and a bad PCB design (no separated ground planes...).
 
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