I recognize that, I tried to order one a couple of months ago, but they were 'out of stock' then. Maybe worth a try, certainly looks like good value - I think it was 150rmb.
Looks the same as this - https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.71.cbgQJ2&id=528808249620&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail
Looks the same as this - https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.71.cbgQJ2&id=528808249620&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail
Thanks - yes, seems the same STA - curious to try something new. It seems in that ad they have removed the markings from the "receiver" chip - could be crucial to jitter? And then what effect does jitter have on these things... Anyway, I'll give it a go. Thanks.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
https://world.taobao.com/item/525315734138.htm?spm=a312a.7700825.1997196601.4.5dR9uo
I think this is the one Abra means? It seems it might have a better receiver chip (AK4113) than the one I was thinking about (CS8xxx) so it is a better starting point. The same seller does a 2.1 version for not much more, but looking at the STA326 datasheet, SE channels seem to perform worse than BTL for THD, and the circuit diagram shows the SE amp output runs to a virtual ground. They suggest two electro caps in series between VDD and gnd with their mid point as the virtual ground for the speaker. I have no experience of this but it would seem to me to be highly dependent on the caps size quality - low esr, high ripple current, and tonally neutral? I'm going to try the YJ 288rmb one - why not ;-) Will be interesting to see how it does against TPA3116 and TA2020.
I think this is the one Abra means? It seems it might have a better receiver chip (AK4113) than the one I was thinking about (CS8xxx) so it is a better starting point. The same seller does a 2.1 version for not much more, but looking at the STA326 datasheet, SE channels seem to perform worse than BTL for THD, and the circuit diagram shows the SE amp output runs to a virtual ground. They suggest two electro caps in series between VDD and gnd with their mid point as the virtual ground for the speaker. I have no experience of this but it would seem to me to be highly dependent on the caps size quality - low esr, high ripple current, and tonally neutral? I'm going to try the YJ 288rmb one - why not ;-) Will be interesting to see how it does against TPA3116 and TA2020.
Yes, that is indeed the one. I think I linked to it before, a page or so back on this thread. I have the 2.1 version and have yet to play with it. The single ended outputs might lead to power supply issues (bus pumping) but the effective impedance seen by the amp is doubled (a good thing from the PSU point of view).
I'd not suggest two caps across the PSU, I'd suggest them wired in parallel in series with the speaker. This will lead to a turn-on thump as they get charged though, some people hate that.
As regards how this amp rates versus the TPA3116 - no comparison, its holographic and pure at the top end. Bass is the weakest point (as for TPA3116) which can be improved a lot by fitting a discrete regulator close to the point of demand. Happy to share the schematic for that if anyone's interested.
I'd not suggest two caps across the PSU, I'd suggest them wired in parallel in series with the speaker. This will lead to a turn-on thump as they get charged though, some people hate that.
As regards how this amp rates versus the TPA3116 - no comparison, its holographic and pure at the top end. Bass is the weakest point (as for TPA3116) which can be improved a lot by fitting a discrete regulator close to the point of demand. Happy to share the schematic for that if anyone's interested.
Hi Guys,
I have the one noted by Nanoloop. Sounds good to me. Great to remove another box (DAC).
As a total novice may I ask a question???
The amp has a coaxial (RCA) input...All my stuff is XLR. I have a USB interface (I think that is what you call it) that has XLR output. So I think this is called AES/EBU. So how would I connect my XLR to the RCA. Is there a converter I can put in the box and replace the RCA with an XLR. I want to re-box the amp as it does not fit with all my 19" rack stuff....
Please can someone help??
I have the one noted by Nanoloop. Sounds good to me. Great to remove another box (DAC).
As a total novice may I ask a question???
The amp has a coaxial (RCA) input...All my stuff is XLR. I have a USB interface (I think that is what you call it) that has XLR output. So I think this is called AES/EBU. So how would I connect my XLR to the RCA. Is there a converter I can put in the box and replace the RCA with an XLR. I want to re-box the amp as it does not fit with all my 19" rack stuff....
Please can someone help??
You're right that the XLR connector carries an AES/EBU signal. This is a balanced signal and normally higher amplitude than the S/PDIF. Its also at a higher impedance (110ohms versus 75ohm). You'll need a resistive attenuator network at the amp end, I'll look into the details and post up about it later. Do you know if your USB-XLR box has a transformer inside?
Hi fox,
Scroll down to fig 1 for a circuit Interfacing AES3 and S/PDIF
Have they set any tone controls in that amp? Without a screen or remote, I wonder how/if it's possible to change eq, bass, etc.
Also have you taken the heatsink off ever? I'm curious to know what receiver chip they used? I've circled it in the pic attached - thanks and no worries if you don't want to check. That size looks like a CS84xx which aren't good - 200ps of jitter.
Scroll down to fig 1 for a circuit Interfacing AES3 and S/PDIF
Have they set any tone controls in that amp? Without a screen or remote, I wonder how/if it's possible to change eq, bass, etc.
Also have you taken the heatsink off ever? I'm curious to know what receiver chip they used? I've circled it in the pic attached - thanks and no worries if you don't want to check. That size looks like a CS84xx which aren't good - 200ps of jitter.
Attachments
Hi Abraxalito
Thank you.
"Transformer" as in 240VAC to whatever the box uses?
Can I just replace the RCA with a XLR and hard wire it to where the RCA went?? Or is this too simple?
My plan is the replace the binding posts with Neutrik SpeakOn and use a Sigma 11 power supply. I am slowly accumulating the parts. I have all the Neutrik, AES/EBU cable with Neutrik EMC connectors.
I am sorry, I have all XLR connectors in the system....
Thanks
Thank you.
"Transformer" as in 240VAC to whatever the box uses?
Can I just replace the RCA with a XLR and hard wire it to where the RCA went?? Or is this too simple?
My plan is the replace the binding posts with Neutrik SpeakOn and use a Sigma 11 power supply. I am slowly accumulating the parts. I have all the Neutrik, AES/EBU cable with Neutrik EMC connectors.
I am sorry, I have all XLR connectors in the system....
Thanks
Hi Nanoloop
Thank you.
I have the JHiFi not as your picture. No I have not taken the heat sink off.
Thank you for the link. But I do not understand. My technical ability far out strips my interest. So it is all Greek to me. If you tell me to plug this into this, I am OK...not good with soldering also....more of a plug and play, but I dream ....
Thank you.
I have the JHiFi not as your picture. No I have not taken the heat sink off.
Thank you for the link. But I do not understand. My technical ability far out strips my interest. So it is all Greek to me. If you tell me to plug this into this, I am OK...not good with soldering also....more of a plug and play, but I dream ....
I think this would allow ac current to sink to gnd but not allow ac current to source from the Vdd? There aren't enough charts in the datasheet to be sure about optimising THD anyway.
No, in this case I was meaning a transformer to isolate the AES/EBU output. It would be a small one, maybe no more than 2cm on a side as its carrying RF.
As the levels and impedances aren't a match, its a bit too simple. Here's the schematic I suggest you use from the Rane page nano linked to. Use the resistor values which aren't in brackets.
Attachments
You can try an RCA/XLR adapter to be plug n play but the logic level voltages are not the same so it's not likely you'll get a good result. I have botched something similar before - taking a logic level 3.3v down to 0.5V just using two resistors and twisted wires. It is easy to do - just cut, strip, twist. Of course, it's not going to maintain great signal integrity but it can make a non-working device into one that works.
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Hi Guys
Thank you for the help.
But I am a total novice when it comes to soldering and I would not know a resister from a capacitor.
More than happy to buy a ready-made (emphasis on ready-made) board and wire than in. Other than that, it has all gone over my head.
Can you dumb it down a little??
Thank you for the help.
But I am a total novice when it comes to soldering and I would not know a resister from a capacitor.
More than happy to buy a ready-made (emphasis on ready-made) board and wire than in. Other than that, it has all gone over my head.
Can you dumb it down a little??
Hi,
It's not possible to dumb down component names I'm afraid so you do need to know a resistor from a capacitor to do diy. It may seem daunting but so long as you don't **** around with mains voltage, it's fun.
EDIT can get expensive though - single or married to a tolerant wife is also essential ;-)
It's not possible to dumb down component names I'm afraid so you do need to know a resistor from a capacitor to do diy. It may seem daunting but so long as you don't **** around with mains voltage, it's fun.
EDIT can get expensive though - single or married to a tolerant wife is also essential ;-)
What Nanoloop said - you're on DIY audio here, there is a basic level of understanding needed to participate. Not intending any offense to you foxint.
You can wire a circuit board in without soldering? Soldering is a basic skill which would be necessary here - once you can solder (probably YouTube has tutorials) then you can learn how to order resistors and prototype circuit boards from online sellers.
If you take it step by step then there will be people here willing to hold your hand.
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