Might work, watch your volume control though!
Hmmm....I've never seen anything like that. What the heck, try them. Just be mindful of turning on an amp with the volume up. Yikes!
Some device like those remote control switches might encourage you to get lazy and not pay attention to where you left the volume pot when you last listened!
Mark
Hmmm....I've never seen anything like that. What the heck, try them. Just be mindful of turning on an amp with the volume up. Yikes!
Some device like those remote control switches might encourage you to get lazy and not pay attention to where you left the volume pot when you last listened!
Mark
Afterlife2,
I have the relatively new to the audio scene ELAC B5's designed by Andrew Jones. They are terrific! I love them. I'd recommend them to anyone.
No, haven't ordered "your" amp yet. Might do that soon, though. I've got so many amps including two of "my" version of the tda7498.
Wow, now that I've got the speaker leads right on mine, and shorted those two white resistors..........much nicer!
Mark
I have the relatively new to the audio scene ELAC B5's designed by Andrew Jones. They are terrific! I love them. I'd recommend them to anyone.
No, haven't ordered "your" amp yet. Might do that soon, though. I've got so many amps including two of "my" version of the tda7498.
Wow, now that I've got the speaker leads right on mine, and shorted those two white resistors..........much nicer!
Mark
I decided to order one of the basic, blue Sanwu TDA7498 boards after finding a used 32v power brick used for $5.
Unfortunately the brick is only 80W, so I won't be able to use the boards full power, or even the full <1%THD power, but then I'm not sure my ears or speakers could take even that.
While used 32v supplies seem quite scarce, I noticed a number 36v 110W supplies made by Delta Electronics for use with a Kodak printer.
The Sanwu board I bought exposes the chips gain control via some jumper pins. Does anyone know if there would be issues extending these with some dupont jumpers so I could change settings using a panel-mounted switch, or are those inputs on the chip sensitive?
Unfortunately the brick is only 80W, so I won't be able to use the boards full power, or even the full <1%THD power, but then I'm not sure my ears or speakers could take even that.
While used 32v supplies seem quite scarce, I noticed a number 36v 110W supplies made by Delta Electronics for use with a Kodak printer.
The Sanwu board I bought exposes the chips gain control via some jumper pins. Does anyone know if there would be issues extending these with some dupont jumpers so I could change settings using a panel-mounted switch, or are those inputs on the chip sensitive?
Andrew Jones is a great designer for sure. I had the Pioneers 52's and sold them to get the HSU's bookshelfs. Did you get the Elac sub as well? How about some pics of your other Ebay amps?
Whoa only 5 bucks what a deal. On ebay? Can't wait to see your setup if you get it. I forgot to tell you I restripped the wires. Now they look clean. Thanks.
Used/recycled computer store. Not included in the price: an hour of digging through bins looking for 24v and 32v supplies. It wasn't not very fruitful. Most of the 24v supplies I found were 48-60w, which I already have enough of. I did find one 120W though.
Looks like the 32v supply I got came from an HP Scanjet printer.
Should have the amp board in a week or two.
Looks like the 32v supply I got came from an HP Scanjet printer.
Should have the amp board in a week or two.
Still not a bad deal. I paid $15 for mine. Looking forward to your pics.
With my 32v 5a adapter could I be getting at lease 70 watts with my amp?Still having trouble with switch, page 10, post #100
Strange!
Refer to my problem with switches not turning "off" on page 10 at post #100. Not only will the switch not turn the amp off, but the strange thing about it is the switch will not "click" at all when this occurs.
The problem is intermittent.
I have used/installed 3 different brands of switches.
I even tried another tda7498 board. Same brand of board however.
The switch will function fine for maybe several weeks, then will not click "off". Then, if I physically take apart the switch, then put it back together will be fine again.
The only thing I can link this strange problem to is the brick type power supply I've been using. It is a 32vdc, 3.3 amp supply I got with my Winsome Mouse amp. The brand is Cincon Electronics, model no. TR100A300 21E12.
It has one of those little blobs or what I think is a coil on the output side of the supply (heading towards the DC jack of the amp).
So, I'm currently trying another supply. One of my Meanwell clone type 24vdc cage type power supplies.
Who knows if that supply will eliminate this problem? I could go two or three weeks then this won't turn off thing could happen again.
I'm really puzzled on this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Mark
Strange!
Refer to my problem with switches not turning "off" on page 10 at post #100. Not only will the switch not turn the amp off, but the strange thing about it is the switch will not "click" at all when this occurs.
The problem is intermittent.
I have used/installed 3 different brands of switches.
I even tried another tda7498 board. Same brand of board however.
The switch will function fine for maybe several weeks, then will not click "off". Then, if I physically take apart the switch, then put it back together will be fine again.
The only thing I can link this strange problem to is the brick type power supply I've been using. It is a 32vdc, 3.3 amp supply I got with my Winsome Mouse amp. The brand is Cincon Electronics, model no. TR100A300 21E12.
It has one of those little blobs or what I think is a coil on the output side of the supply (heading towards the DC jack of the amp).
So, I'm currently trying another supply. One of my Meanwell clone type 24vdc cage type power supplies.
Who knows if that supply will eliminate this problem? I could go two or three weeks then this won't turn off thing could happen again.
I'm really puzzled on this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Mark
Attachments
As I mentioned, I've tried several different brands of mini toggle switches. To elaborate, maybe five different switches have done this altogether. The first one I tossed, the second I took apart, and then it measured fine for continuity/non-continuity as it should so I put it back into the amp. After awhile, it failed to click off. I tried two other brands after that. Same results. Every one I take apart, then put back together seems fine. No signs of burning, etc.
I forgot to mention all switches used are rated at 6 amps.
Weird that this has never happened with anything else but these 7498's. I somehow today doubted that it's the board(s) so I thought I'd try another power supply for awhile and see what happens.
Mark
I forgot to mention all switches used are rated at 6 amps.
Weird that this has never happened with anything else but these 7498's. I somehow today doubted that it's the board(s) so I thought I'd try another power supply for awhile and see what happens.
Mark
Hmmm maybe some DYI with this case. Just wondering if I can plug the fan in? Not really need since it looks ventilated enough. Thoughts? Acrylic Clear Case Enclosure with Cooling Fan for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Pi 2 | eBay
Check the measurements before ordering
Fan probably isn't necessary, which is good, because it wouldn't do to well with the amp's supply voltage.
My basic Sanwu board came a couple of days ago in record time (~7 days). I spent an excessive amount of time making up a test harness. It would have been faster putting it in a case, but I can reuse the hookups with other boards.
I'll need to do some side-by side testing with other amps. It sounds good, maybe a little brighter than I'm used to, and the bass seems to have more kick, but both impressions may just be the result of listening at louder-than usual levels.
The old $5, 32v 2.5A HP printer power brick I picked up has been great. It may not be able to deliver enough power to use all of the amp's clean-power range, but it's got enough to be too-loud for my desktop setup.
Fan probably isn't necessary, which is good, because it wouldn't do to well with the amp's supply voltage.
My basic Sanwu board came a couple of days ago in record time (~7 days). I spent an excessive amount of time making up a test harness. It would have been faster putting it in a case, but I can reuse the hookups with other boards.
I'll need to do some side-by side testing with other amps. It sounds good, maybe a little brighter than I'm used to, and the bass seems to have more kick, but both impressions may just be the result of listening at louder-than usual levels.
The old $5, 32v 2.5A HP printer power brick I picked up has been great. It may not be able to deliver enough power to use all of the amp's clean-power range, but it's got enough to be too-loud for my desktop setup.
Attachments
And, what to do about it?
I see. A temporary solder almost. Interesting. But, what should I do about this? Does anyone have a solution? Or just opinions on what is happening?
Incidentally, it was suggested to me to wire the switch through the positive rather than the negative line. I tried this. Same result - with that 30VDC power supply I previously mentioned with the "blob" on the line.
What are those things on the power lines of these types of supplies anyway? Coils? Capacitors? Ferrite rings?
I have since reverted to the 24VDC Meanwell clone cage type power supply. I've not experienced a problem with switches when using that supply.
Interesting stuff. Intermittent problems like this are vexing. Especially to me with very limited knowledge of electronics.
Mark
I see. A temporary solder almost. Interesting. But, what should I do about this? Does anyone have a solution? Or just opinions on what is happening?
Incidentally, it was suggested to me to wire the switch through the positive rather than the negative line. I tried this. Same result - with that 30VDC power supply I previously mentioned with the "blob" on the line.
What are those things on the power lines of these types of supplies anyway? Coils? Capacitors? Ferrite rings?
I have since reverted to the 24VDC Meanwell clone cage type power supply. I've not experienced a problem with switches when using that supply.
Interesting stuff. Intermittent problems like this are vexing. Especially to me with very limited knowledge of electronics.
Mark
Well, it seems odd that three different brands of switches have done this. And those ones have never failed on any of my other amps.
The only one thing I can observe that is a common thing is that 30vdc power supply.
So, I will do the old adage about the doctor and patient:
Patient: Dr., my knee hurts when I'm climbing ladders.
Doctor: Well, then, you'd better stay off ladders.
;-)
Mark
The only one thing I can observe that is a common thing is that 30vdc power supply.
So, I will do the old adage about the doctor and patient:
Patient: Dr., my knee hurts when I'm climbing ladders.
Doctor: Well, then, you'd better stay off ladders.
;-)
Mark
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