TPA3116D2 Amp

Hello guys. I​


I have refound this amp in a box.




What do you thing about it? Output filter is like datasheet exept 4.7R instead of 3.3R. It was with bluetooth module but very noisy so I desoldred the bluetooth modul and solder a mini-jack directly on the board. Because of normal through hole caps it can be easily modded.




Or should I buy a new a new TPA3116 board. If yes which one would be the best? All have through hole capsso easy to mod :)
 

Attachments

  • TPA3116_V1.JPG
    TPA3116_V1.JPG
    51.3 KB · Views: 583
  • TPA3116_V2.JPG
    TPA3116_V2.JPG
    61.6 KB · Views: 574
  • TPA3116_V3.JPG
    TPA3116_V3.JPG
    64.1 KB · Views: 565
Hello,

TPA3116D2 Dual 50W Channel Stereo Digital Amplifier Board DC 5-24V dn | eBay
I got this amp from ebay and it worked for a few minutes. After that, it is giving continues pop noise for the left channel (it is a pop noise around 1Hz I guess).

Please see the linked video
Shared album - Lasith Chandrasekara - Google Photos

It is possible to repair this ? What should be the particles that I have to look into?

Note: When I switched off the amp and let it to be cool down (around 15min) and if I start then for a short time of period I can't hear this noice. And this noice is only for the left channel and at he starting it appears to be happen when there is not enough power in the input. But after some time it will appear with a high volume of input as well. Also I checked it by unplugging the input connectors, in that case also noice is there.
 
Did you connect two speakers to the amp? You can not run these amps with only one speaker connected, they will burn out.
You have to short an unused input and put at least a 4-12 ohm resistor at the corresponding output if using it mono. Has been mentioned a hundred times.

Anyway, as with any industrial product, some will fail. Chinese production is not focused on quality. So there probably has been no burn in test and it is left to you to test for defective samples.

Sent the seller a mail, attach a video with two speakers connected and the problem visible and ask them for a refund or to sent a new one. If the seller wants you to return the board, throw it in the bin and tell them you sent it by ordinary mail (which would be ridiculous expensive and will not be paid by them, even if they had to). They are Chinese, don´t expect any honesty. Would be the first time.

PS file a complaint with your payment system early in time. Many of these sellers try to time you out with stupid non sense questions that don´t relate to your problem, this is not by mistake, but their selling policy.
I had vendors that sent only defective parts, worst was 4 in 4 sans function (Bluetooth device). They buy defective from large factory´s and pretend to repair, but sell as they pick it out of the trash bin. Most people don´t start a complaint for a few $, but on their account these layzy peoples payments summ up...
 
Last edited:
Hello,

Thanks for reply.
Yea I have connected two speakers and it was working well when I started. I was working well around 30min (so impressed :) ). After that, it went wrong.

Now also if I power up it will work fine for 1 or minutes and the problem comes. Maybe a problem with capacitors, I will check them and replace.

I logged a complaint and seller agreed to refund after sending this video. Will see ..

Ahh my PS it support upto 2A and 0-15.8V. This kit will draw very small current around 0.2A and start to work around 9V.

Also regarding these products are they using original ICs for these? Because some class AB amp ICs like LM3886, LM1875 they have fake (even in my country: Sri Lanka also they have fake ICs for those) But I am not sure they can make fake ICs for class D chips as they are more complex.
 
There is one chance, take of the heat sink. Be very careful, do not pull, better try to twist it a bit. Sometimes they use cheap silcone bathroom sealant as thermal glue. Clean the chip carefully. Let run without heatsink at moderate level and feel how hot it gets. It should not get hot, usualy not even warm to the touch.

Then, try another PS, maybe a car battery.

Measure your loudspeakers with a ohm meter, they should have a resistance of 3-9 ohm.

If you still get the noise, the chip might be faulty. There is nothing known about fake 3116 chips. Too complicated to manufacture cheaper than TI can do it. Sometimes they might use 3118, which have no silvery metal on top.

Take a magnifying glas and check the solder of the D-chip. Maybe one leg is loose. You can resolder with a fine tip, but seek (youtube) advice first.
 
Last edited:
MOD for red mono board

I use a 3 ohm load, ie two KEF UniQ10 in parallel.
They are each slightly under 6 Z.
I use the $3 tpa3118 module with 24vdc mean-well 100w.
...
You mean TPA3116? As TPA3118 won't like the 24V and 3Ohm load.

If you use the board with the red pcb; most (all?) have a production fault which can be fixed. See TPA3116 D2 mono amplifier as a stereo system?
Just removing R2 and cutting the chips leg is easier then swapping R2+R3 see TPA3116 D2 mono amplifier as a stereo system?
 
Last edited:
Hello guys,

Can I use this transformer with a rectifier+filter to power a TPA3116D2 board (which accepts 12-24V)?


Specs of the transformer:


Primary: 0V....220V
Secondaries: 32V.....0V.....32V
19V....0V.....19V
0V....38V
Power rating: 100 VA





19V secondary seems to be the most suitable but it's on the edge. 19 * 1.414 = 26.866V DC but after rectification this should drop to 25.x V maybe. But isn't that a bit too much?


Also, will I be able to squeeze full 100W out of the board? 100/19 is 5.26 A which seems enough current but my formula could be wrong. This is my first time doing something like this so that's why I'm asking here.
 
What is the impedance of the speakers you plan to use these with? That'll determine the peak power you can get at 19v.


1 subwoofer speaker at 4 ohms. It's a mono subwoofer board. I'm currently using a 19V 3.4A old laptop charger but I'm looking for an upgrade in power and I also want to get rid of slight buzzing when nothing is playing. I suspect the laptop charger I'm using right now is not really good quality.


I believe transformers are speced at load, so the 19v is more like ~22v for no load design margin.
22 x 1.4 = 30.8vdc no load.
Filter caps 50v.


Well, if that's true then this transformer is probably not suitable. I guess I have to measure the AC output from 19V before proceeding any further.
 
Hi

the TPA3116 can handle in operation 24V and should be not exceeded. So every version of transfomer which give more after rectifire and caps is useless.
use an smps with 24V or a transfomrer with 15VAC--> 15 *1,41 = 21.5V. the factor 1,41 is after rectifier and cap unloaded. the better the diodes (shottky) your voltage is mores stabel unload-loaded. lets say older rectifier brdidge "waste" a little more....
the transfomer with 18V = 25V unloaded. the max of TPA3116 is 26VDC

19VAC tranformer is really unusal - 12V -15V -18V -24V

chris
 
Last edited:
This transformer is not good at all for your intended purpose. The ampere rating is the same for the 32, 19 and 39 volt winding, so if you have 100VA/39 V = 2.5 A.
Which makes it a 19V x 2.5A =37,5 VA at best, most probably less. Got to see data sheet or measure under load. Often additional voltages have even less, as they are only intended for some low power stages.

Please don´t decide that "your SMPS" is high quality. Just try another one, it might not buzz. You can not judge a power supply from the outside until you have intensly measured it.
If you need more power, which is a very subjective demand, look for another amp and use a dedicated supply. not a left over from a laptop or printer.
For example a TDA7497e with a 36 Volt 5-7A SMPS. All together for about 30-40 US$ inc. P&P at AliBaba ot ebay.