hi guys,
I have an amp made by a friend of mine, it is a amp with a ADAU1701 DSP and a TPA3116D2. It uses 5532 in the rest of the signal path as well 2x TL072 as you see feeding the 3116.
I have some hiss issues, not very loud, I can hear it from a meter away.
And he don't know how to solve it.
If any more info is needed please let me know.
Thx
I have an amp made by a friend of mine, it is a amp with a ADAU1701 DSP and a TPA3116D2. It uses 5532 in the rest of the signal path as well 2x TL072 as you see feeding the 3116.
I have some hiss issues, not very loud, I can hear it from a meter away.
And he don't know how to solve it.
If any more info is needed please let me know.
Thx
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Only the Meanwell has a 3 prong plug so I assume it has an earth as it does not have a double insulated symbol.
Did you try to solder resistors at the outputs of both TL072 to GND?
For example 5.1k resistors.
Not Sub Amp
I have ordered a bridged sub version of this amp (picture left), but received the stereo version (picture right) with two outputs.
Is there an easy way to convert it to mono with low pass filter for one sub with cut-off at about 100Hz? How? Never done it before.
I'm pretty sure one of you clever people know how.
I have ordered a bridged sub version of this amp (picture left), but received the stereo version (picture right) with two outputs.
Is there an easy way to convert it to mono with low pass filter for one sub with cut-off at about 100Hz? How? Never done it before.
I'm pretty sure one of you clever people know how.
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Hi,
theoretical it is possible, by removing some parts, adding some others, cutting some traces and connecting some points.
Is it worth doing? No. More work than building a new one.
Can you do it? No, if you ask here and don´t know by your self.
Use it as it is and order the right one.
You may use an active x-over from car HIFI to use it as an sub amp, but even such a x-over will be more expensive than the finished sub version.
You do know these amps power depend on the resistance of the speaker you connect and the voltage of your power supply?
The mono version only gives more power with 2 ohms, up to 120W with 24 volt (and enough amperes like 5A !) The stereo version does not work with 2 ohm´s.
Stereo and mono give 60W with 4 ohm and 30W supplied with 24 volt´s.
With 19 volt´s the numbers are 22, 37, 80 watt with 8, 4, 2 Ohm´s
With 12V even lower...
So maybe this was not the right amp anyway?
theoretical it is possible, by removing some parts, adding some others, cutting some traces and connecting some points.
Is it worth doing? No. More work than building a new one.
Can you do it? No, if you ask here and don´t know by your self.
Use it as it is and order the right one.
You may use an active x-over from car HIFI to use it as an sub amp, but even such a x-over will be more expensive than the finished sub version.
You do know these amps power depend on the resistance of the speaker you connect and the voltage of your power supply?
The mono version only gives more power with 2 ohms, up to 120W with 24 volt (and enough amperes like 5A !) The stereo version does not work with 2 ohm´s.
Stereo and mono give 60W with 4 ohm and 30W supplied with 24 volt´s.
With 19 volt´s the numbers are 22, 37, 80 watt with 8, 4, 2 Ohm´s
With 12V even lower...
So maybe this was not the right amp anyway?
Thanks for your answer Turbowatch2.
I was going to use it with a 4 Ohm woofer (from a PC sub with blown amp) and 24V SMPS of sufficient Wattage. But since you say it's not an easy conversion, it will probably just land in a drawer and get forgotten about, as I already have a Pass DIY class A stereo amp.
I'm not keen to order another one from the same company as they might just send the same wrong model again.
I was hoping that it would easy to bridge the two channels for combined left-right mixing and double Wattage. Since you say it can be done, but not worth the effort, I won't bother.
I was going to use it with a 4 Ohm woofer (from a PC sub with blown amp) and 24V SMPS of sufficient Wattage. But since you say it's not an easy conversion, it will probably just land in a drawer and get forgotten about, as I already have a Pass DIY class A stereo amp.
I'm not keen to order another one from the same company as they might just send the same wrong model again.
I was hoping that it would easy to bridge the two channels for combined left-right mixing and double Wattage. Since you say it can be done, but not worth the effort, I won't bother.
I would be really surprised if that was the case, but I'm willing to give it a try... if only I can get it to work.
Got it all connected up and no sound. Then after some trouble shooting, I discovered that there was no connectivity to the board from the input cable on two of the four pins of the 3.5mm stereo jack. It's very weird. It's not the cable.
I will probably bypass the stereo jack and solder the cable directly to the board. Will report back when it's done later in the week.
Did you order from ebay or similar? And the supplier is from china? They might have some incomplete and poorly designed products for sale, but they usually respond to feedback quite well. Just tell them that you got the wrong product (and send them a picture), and you will probably get a new one for free.
Thank you for the advice, Nenola. Yes, I've ordered it from Banggood.com in China. I will try to explain the problem to them and hopefully get a new one. But my experience with that company is not very good. It seems their staff do not know much about the products, but I will try anyway.
And even if they send a new one, I might only get it in 9 - 12 months - if I get it at all. The postal service in my country is so bad, I have to use a courier for all imports if I don't want to wait so long. So this is a triple loss for me, since the courier fees were twice as much as the item cost.
Thanks for confirming that. I will try to get another unit sent. Anyway, this has become a long term project because I'm not going to pay courier fees again.
With some luck, I will get this unit working as a stereo amp, but I bought it as a sub amp because I need a sub for use with my FR home speakers.
The subwoofer channel whispers but the sound is heard,
the right speaker stops the sound and the left bangs.
There is enough power.
Now where do you really go about finding a solution to this problem ?? Can I get some power through this?
I bought it to ebay and it is similar 2.1 Channel High Power Digital Power Amplifier Board TPA3116D2 2*80W + 100W DIY 6256299537411 | eBay
the right speaker stops the sound and the left bangs.
There is enough power.
Now where do you really go about finding a solution to this problem ?? Can I get some power through this?
I bought it to ebay and it is similar 2.1 Channel High Power Digital Power Amplifier Board TPA3116D2 2*80W + 100W DIY 6256299537411 | eBay
Just some feedback on the stereo amp that Banggood sent instead of the mono sub amp that I ordered.
I finally managed to get it working on 24V, and must say I'm quite impressed with the sound quality.
Channel separation is very good, but that may be a function of the excellent AKSA Lender preamp. Imaging and bass is not on par whith the Pass ACA, but the uninitiated will probably not realize this. However, I suspect the TPA3116D2 is more suitable for playing modern music. With Jazz and "girl with a guitar" type music, I can easily tel the difference between this amp and the Pass ACA. I'm using FR speakers, btw. without a sub.
Sound quality might improve if you let it play over night.
See the sound quality in relation to the 3 small electrolytic´s, random power supply, cruel input jack and cheap parts. So there is quite some room for improvement compared to out of the box condition. The power might even have to pass through a single diode for example (reverse polarity protection).
Think of some parts borrowed from the Pass amp and it might get more close.
Also, the Pass amps have a reputation of sounding a bit tube like, with optimized distortion spectrum.
Anyway, it is quite impressive, even more in relation to price , part count and price.
See the sound quality in relation to the 3 small electrolytic´s, random power supply, cruel input jack and cheap parts. So there is quite some room for improvement compared to out of the box condition. The power might even have to pass through a single diode for example (reverse polarity protection).
Think of some parts borrowed from the Pass amp and it might get more close.
Also, the Pass amps have a reputation of sounding a bit tube like, with optimized distortion spectrum.
Anyway, it is quite impressive, even more in relation to price , part count and price.
Good catch. I agree with you. I want to change the input socket anyway, because the connections are intermittent with channels losing signal if one just touches the cable.