..and while I'm at it and noone is responding I'll just keep going:
I've seen people replacing the big input caps with f.e. generic Wima's, but I've also seen people swapping them for "audiophile" big *** caps like Jantzen / Audyn / Mundorf.
Is there something to be gained by using those "audio-grade" caps here, or are we better off using generic polypropylene film Wima alike caps that can be ordered from the usual electronic shops?
I've seen people replacing the big input caps with f.e. generic Wima's, but I've also seen people swapping them for "audiophile" big *** caps like Jantzen / Audyn / Mundorf.
Is there something to be gained by using those "audio-grade" caps here, or are we better off using generic polypropylene film Wima alike caps that can be ordered from the usual electronic shops?
If a board is using electrolytic caps for the inputs-and some do-- there is probably good reason to replace with a film cap. I like to use 2.2uF caps for this purpose. PP caps in that value can sometimes be a bit large, so mylar films from a scale standpoint, make sense. If the lead spacing is 5mm, the WIMA MKS4 or VISHAY R82 are good choices. I personally like to drop in VISHAY MKT1822/63V, because I have a large number of them laying around, but they are a bit larger and require gluing to the bottom of a board and making up some leads to complete the install. As far as "boutique caps," which I have never messed with due to my frugal nature, go ahead, spend a paycheck on a pair and see what happens. Perhaps they will solve all of your problems and make all your dreams come true. Or maybe they will do that for the person selling them. Anyways, this is a "hobby," whereas no one is getting seriously hurt or perturbed, so don't sweat it one way or another, it is all in good fun.
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Sorry for spamming the thread with questions that have probably been answered before, but its hard to find conclusive answers in 1100 pages...
Another thing I dont understand - In the datasheet I read "The input capacitors used should be a type with low leakage, like quality electrolytic, tantalum or ceramic", yet I read lots of recommendations for Mkp/mks capacitors (wima mostly).
Am I missing something / misinterpreting the meaning of the statement in the datasheet? Or are mkp / mks caps actually low leakage, and if so, why arent they mentioned in the datasheet?
Edit: google tells me film / foil caps have low leakage, electrolytic have high leakage.
Isnt the datasheet recommending exactly the wrong type of capacitors then?
Another thing I dont understand - In the datasheet I read "The input capacitors used should be a type with low leakage, like quality electrolytic, tantalum or ceramic", yet I read lots of recommendations for Mkp/mks capacitors (wima mostly).
Am I missing something / misinterpreting the meaning of the statement in the datasheet? Or are mkp / mks caps actually low leakage, and if so, why arent they mentioned in the datasheet?
Edit: google tells me film / foil caps have low leakage, electrolytic have high leakage.
Isnt the datasheet recommending exactly the wrong type of capacitors then?
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I think the reason for this recommendation is the tendency to use capacitances of 10uF to provide a low-frequency corner close to 1..2Hz. This produces a nicer frequency curve in the documentation.
Film caps of that size are bulky and expensive. If you can live with a low cut close to 20Hz, 1uF will be fine and you can use film caps like wima. btw, these Wima caps are not restricted to 1uF, you get upto several uFs in a tiny case.
Leakage with electrolytic caps can be an issue, leakage of film caps is neglible.
So this is the solution I do prefer personnally.
I eventually got hold of some resistors for testing - value 4.7K ohms.
I've tried wiring them as you suggested, using single resistors and then 2 resistors per channel in series, with no discernible effect on the hum.
To recap, I prefer to play music via Bluetooth, but if I remove the line input that connects via the Bluetooth board, I get a nasty hum/buzz from the amp, so I'm trying the resistors as a substitute for the line input.
I measured the resistance on the line output from my laptop (which when plugged in to the Bluetooth board pretty much eliminates the buzz, as long as the laptop is powered on) - it's about 32 ohms on either channel. This is significantly different to 4.7K or 9.5K ohms. Should I try similar value resistors (30 to 35 ohm) to try and defeat the hum or will it have a bad effect on the amp?
All right, I got almost all my parts in and replaced about everything on my yj bb board except for the snubber caps (they will arrive later).
Sounds pretty damn good to me!
For volume control I use this yj tube buffer:
Yuan-Jing 6N3 Tube Pre-amplifier Board
So after all this recapping of my tpa3116 board I'm left with the question - would doing the same to the tube buffer have any theoretical positive effects?
I have no complaints about the way it currently sounds, I just like tinkering and I'm a sucker for theoretical improvements that my old ears will never notice anyway...
Sounds pretty damn good to me!
For volume control I use this yj tube buffer:
Yuan-Jing 6N3 Tube Pre-amplifier Board
So after all this recapping of my tpa3116 board I'm left with the question - would doing the same to the tube buffer have any theoretical positive effects?
I have no complaints about the way it currently sounds, I just like tinkering and I'm a sucker for theoretical improvements that my old ears will never notice anyway...
The joy I get from listening to something I've spent hours tinkering on
I have no idea, I've not been blind A/B'ing... I've first built my own speakers, now adding an amp I've tinkered with, all in fun. I'm no audiophile, I just enjoy having something to do.
In my mind I've just built the best sounding system in the world, in reality I've probably spent hours making it all sound worse than stock.
I'm having fun though. Money and time well spent
I have no idea, I've not been blind A/B'ing... I've first built my own speakers, now adding an amp I've tinkered with, all in fun. I'm no audiophile, I just enjoy having something to do.
In my mind I've just built the best sounding system in the world, in reality I've probably spent hours making it all sound worse than stock.
I'm having fun though. Money and time well spent
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From TI datasheet:
"The TPA31xxD2 are stereo efficient, digital amplifier power stage for driving speakers up to 100W / 2 Ω in mono"
Cheers
j.R.c
Thanks. I read over the datasheet. My understanding is both channels are run parallel thus 2 Ω. So if you connected 6 or 8 Ω speakers you effectively gain nothing?
It's been a while since I have been on this thread... off in SE Class A land for over a year. Can't believe this thread now has 2M+ views. Anyhow, going down memory lane, I plugged in my Sanwu 3116 with Bluetooth the other day, and have to say, it sounded darn good and quite powerful with an HP 19v laptop SMPS, and connected to my phone via BT. I had it hooked up to a Tang Band W5-2143 in an XKi cabinet.
This is the amp (from DrMord's site - where he shows a nifty low noise fix which I have not yet implemented):
Refreshing how the on-board buttons actually work to change volume, play/pause, and change tracks.
This is the amp (from DrMord's site - where he shows a nifty low noise fix which I have not yet implemented):
Refreshing how the on-board buttons actually work to change volume, play/pause, and change tracks.
I had a similar recent experience which has prompted me build another tpa3116 while I watch 3255 development. My last few amps were the well regarded AudioBah which is some years ago now. Is there a consensus on what the best TPA3116 board is now? i.e <$20
Not sure it is consensus, but my opinion is the Sanwu blue monoblock PBTL board for $5. It has tight clean circuit. Gain is a bit high so change resistor to make 22dB.
For example:
Aliexpress.com : Buy TPA3118 PBTL mono digital amplifier board 1X60W 12V 24V POWER AMP from Reliable power amp suppliers on The sky one