Hello, I'm new to this forum and buiding amps whatsoever, so I've come here for a few advices.
I've ordered this red mono TPA 3116 amp from aliexpress (goo.gl/Og9J6a) to put it into an old speaker from hifi system (too bad that the only thing I have left is the speaker), to make it into an active speaker.
I would like to ask where should I put the volume control and tone control(between input and amp, or amp and output)?
Also, should I use passive tone control, or use some tone control in a preamp? I'm planning to use it for phone playback and potentially as a guitar amp (running through Zoom G3x with its own preamp) so i don't think I need a preamp. But as I said, I'm a beginner. But seeing that this amp needs DC supply and preamps need AC, I wouldn't want to use 2 power sources in such a speaker.
Thank you for your answers.
I've ordered this red mono TPA 3116 amp from aliexpress (goo.gl/Og9J6a) to put it into an old speaker from hifi system (too bad that the only thing I have left is the speaker), to make it into an active speaker.
I would like to ask where should I put the volume control and tone control(between input and amp, or amp and output)?
Also, should I use passive tone control, or use some tone control in a preamp? I'm planning to use it for phone playback and potentially as a guitar amp (running through Zoom G3x with its own preamp) so i don't think I need a preamp. But as I said, I'm a beginner. But seeing that this amp needs DC supply and preamps need AC, I wouldn't want to use 2 power sources in such a speaker.
Thank you for your answers.
Technically you can do it in either location, but the most common place would be between amp and source (i.e. on the input side of the amp). It's a question of dealing with line-level signals (low power) or speaker-level (high power) signals.
That's a matter of personal preference. There's no "right" way to do it. There are benefits and tradeoffs with either approach.
Well, your preamp is almost certainly running on DC, it has an internal AC to DC power supply.
You will need some form of volume control, as the board you linked is a pure power amp (i.e. you will get max volume otherwise). Your existing preamp might do volume control? Otherwise, the quick and easy way to do volume control is with a potentiometer in front of the amp's input (and thus you'd have a very simple passive preamp).
Since you say you are new to all this, I would encourage you to start as simply as possible. As long as you have a way to control the volume, I'd just work on getting that amp board going... once you have a better feel for everything, you can start adding in fancier features.
First off, thank you for posting this.
I've got one of these:
TPA3116D2 2x 50W +100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Power Amplifier Board | eBay
I suspect that it has the same schematic.
Anyways when powering up I have a horrendous turn on thump. I suspect it is due to R??? and C24 in the schematic you posted.
I modified my board by placing a 4.7uF cap between MUTE and GVDD. This alleviates some of the turn on thump, but does nothing for the turn off.
Anyways, do you, or anyone, know what the purpose of C24 is in that schematic?
Also, I used Arctic Silver (a thermal paste meant for CPUs) on the thermal pads with good success. But honestly these amps are so efficient I have yet, even without the paste, to drive them into thermal shutdown. And I'm running 6 Li-Ions in series for a 24V supply, into a 2 ohm sub (and 8 ohm speakers) so not the lightest of loads. Anyways I'm quite impressed by these Chinese Ebay boards, if only they didn't have that horrible turn on pop. So hopefully someone on here has already figured this out. (why re-invent the wheel I figure)
Thanks,
-Judtoff.
EDIT
I should be clear. The turn on thump is almost completely eliminated by removing both OP-Amps from their sockets. The thump is definitely due to the on board pre-amp etc. What I'm talking about it more than the typical TPA3116 turn on pop. Cheers,
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Hi, Brian,
Yes, the TPA3116D2 IC can easily drive 6 ohm loads when used on a properly designed PCB.
Either power supply will be fine; personally, I would lean towards the 24V one to give yourself more headroom.
Thanks for your interest in TI's products! If you have further questions, feel free to pop over to our forum at Audio Amplifiers Forum - Audio Amplifiers - TI E2E Community and one of our apps engineers will be happy to help you.
Best regards,
Don
Yes, the TPA3116D2 IC can easily drive 6 ohm loads when used on a properly designed PCB.
Either power supply will be fine; personally, I would lean towards the 24V one to give yourself more headroom.
Thanks for your interest in TI's products! If you have further questions, feel free to pop over to our forum at Audio Amplifiers Forum - Audio Amplifiers - TI E2E Community and one of our apps engineers will be happy to help you.
Best regards,
Don
Hello! First time poster, longish time reader - currently wading through this thread which has been really interesting and I've learnt a lot, but there's a few things I want to double check before I go ahead and pull the trigger on buying certain components.
To outline my project, I'm a real audio n00b and I have some free time from work coming up, and looking for something to play around with and the 3116 chip projects have really piqued my interest. However, as mentioned, I have no experience with anything audio or even vaguely electrical, bar soldering a broken channel wire on a tone arm (my speed is more mechanical things like old film cameras for diy and repair).
So I'm looking to buy the TPA3116 2.1CH 2*50W+100W Amp Kit Amplifier Assembled Board from Ebay seller szgracelee1005 as recommended earlier in this thread.
This project isn't designed to replace my main amplifier, but maybe be used with a DIY raspberry pi based media player I'm building, or to plug in an iPod, and if I get a little crazy, an old CRT TV to hear some retro consoles I've dug out of storage. If you can think of any problems there, let me know.
The spare set of speakers I have that I was going to use for testing and probably leave hooked up are some old JVC bookshelfs: 10W/8ohm
I also have this pair of Boston bookshelfs: Boston Acoustics US) which may be too much???
One big thing I'm not sure on is what power supply to get. i'd look at buying locally, and the options are on this page: https://surplustronics.co.nz/categories/117-dc-mains-adaptors
As you can see there's a price jump between some of the smaller ones and the laptop charger type that most people use!
And finally, out of curiosity sake, how much extra 'modding' is possible with these boards? What extra components can be generally added to them, like FM/AM radio or phono pre-amps, second set of speakers? or not possible with the circuit design?
Oh, and last thing, if anyone is familiar with this particular build, what are the width of the pot switches? I'd like to add some chunky volume knobs bought off eBay, so wondering what the hole size should be so they can slide on nice and tight. Or are they a set standard size for everything?
many thanks in advance and apologies for any dumb questions too! I'm still wading through the hundreds of pages of this thread (at 50 posts per page) so it's possible the answer lies within already!
To outline my project, I'm a real audio n00b and I have some free time from work coming up, and looking for something to play around with and the 3116 chip projects have really piqued my interest. However, as mentioned, I have no experience with anything audio or even vaguely electrical, bar soldering a broken channel wire on a tone arm (my speed is more mechanical things like old film cameras for diy and repair).
So I'm looking to buy the TPA3116 2.1CH 2*50W+100W Amp Kit Amplifier Assembled Board from Ebay seller szgracelee1005 as recommended earlier in this thread.
This project isn't designed to replace my main amplifier, but maybe be used with a DIY raspberry pi based media player I'm building, or to plug in an iPod, and if I get a little crazy, an old CRT TV to hear some retro consoles I've dug out of storage. If you can think of any problems there, let me know.
The spare set of speakers I have that I was going to use for testing and probably leave hooked up are some old JVC bookshelfs: 10W/8ohm
I also have this pair of Boston bookshelfs: Boston Acoustics US) which may be too much???
One big thing I'm not sure on is what power supply to get. i'd look at buying locally, and the options are on this page: https://surplustronics.co.nz/categories/117-dc-mains-adaptors
As you can see there's a price jump between some of the smaller ones and the laptop charger type that most people use!
And finally, out of curiosity sake, how much extra 'modding' is possible with these boards? What extra components can be generally added to them, like FM/AM radio or phono pre-amps, second set of speakers? or not possible with the circuit design?
Oh, and last thing, if anyone is familiar with this particular build, what are the width of the pot switches? I'd like to add some chunky volume knobs bought off eBay, so wondering what the hole size should be so they can slide on nice and tight. Or are they a set standard size for everything?
many thanks in advance and apologies for any dumb questions too! I'm still wading through the hundreds of pages of this thread (at 50 posts per page) so it's possible the answer lies within already!
There is usually an adjustable low pass on the sub, but remember that there's no high pass on the fullrange. So, the L/R channels will play all frequencies.
Hey guys
I have fallen a bit in love with the TPA3244, as I build active speakers as a hobby. It has really nice data and can be set up for both BTL (for low frequency) and two SE (for mid and high frequency)
I have no problem with the creation of the active filter, but I don't feel skilled enough (and have no measurement equipment) to create a class D amplifier by myself.
My only question. Does any of you have experiance creating PCB by yourself for this thing?
I have done this for a DAC: PCM1974a, så I have some experiance with Eagle.
I have fallen a bit in love with the TPA3244, as I build active speakers as a hobby. It has really nice data and can be set up for both BTL (for low frequency) and two SE (for mid and high frequency)
I have no problem with the creation of the active filter, but I don't feel skilled enough (and have no measurement equipment) to create a class D amplifier by myself.
My only question. Does any of you have experiance creating PCB by yourself for this thing?
I have done this for a DAC: PCM1974a, så I have some experiance with Eagle.
Hi to all DIY Audio folks, noob to the forum here!
I've been experimenting with Class D amp after getting an EHX Magnum 44 power amp pedal to powera guitar cab from a pedal board.
Since then I have bought a few boards -TDA4798 which I have as a stereo setup feeding 2 cabs, and very nice it sounds.
I wanted an amp to power 1 cab so I ordered this:
DC8-25V TPA3116D2 100W Mono Power Subwoofer Amplifier Board /w Preamp NE5532
Yes, I didn't see the subwoofer part when I ordered so I have been adapting it to suit the guitar. I removed the 2 LP caps on the right and now a lot of the frequency range is coming through. I would like to know if anyone can suggest any other mods to open up the top end and upper mids a little more, there is plenty of bass available into a 16R 12" Creamback Neo. With my pedal board, there is plenty of power, even with 16R speaker. Many thanks
Ray
I've been experimenting with Class D amp after getting an EHX Magnum 44 power amp pedal to powera guitar cab from a pedal board.
Since then I have bought a few boards -TDA4798 which I have as a stereo setup feeding 2 cabs, and very nice it sounds.
I wanted an amp to power 1 cab so I ordered this:
DC8-25V TPA3116D2 100W Mono Power Subwoofer Amplifier Board /w Preamp NE5532
Yes, I didn't see the subwoofer part when I ordered
so I have been adapting it to suit the guitar. I removed the 2 LP caps on the right and now a lot of the frequency range is coming through. I would like to know if anyone can suggest any other mods to open up the top end and upper mids a little more, there is plenty of bass available into a 16R 12" Creamback Neo. With my pedal board, there is plenty of power, even with 16R speaker. Many thanksRay
I have one of these as a stereo amp too, no problems with the frequency range here:Hi to all DIY Audio folks, noob to the forum here!
I've been experimenting with Class D amp after getting an EHX Magnum 44 power amp pedal to powera guitar cab from a pedal board.
Since then I have bought a few boards -TDA4798 which I have as a stereo setup feeding 2 cabs, and very nice it sounds.
I wanted an amp to power 1 cab so I ordered this:
DC8-25V TPA3116D2 100W Mono Power Subwoofer Amplifier Board /w Preamp NE5532
Yes, I didn't see the subwoofer part when I ordered
Ray
2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V Arduino MO | eBay
I've been trying to find a cure for the 'pop' that I get when switching my 3116 amp on and off.
I ended up getting two prebuilt boards, wired them in and the problem has gone away.
BTL TDA7498 TPA3116 TDA7492 Digital Amplifier Speaker Protection Board Module
I ended up getting two prebuilt boards, wired them in and the problem has gone away.
BTL TDA7498 TPA3116 TDA7492 Digital Amplifier Speaker Protection Board Module
Hello everyone!
Im using the blue version of this board from Yuan Jing in an active setup for a pair bookshelf speaker. Ive been using it succesfully for over a year now and it sounds great. Recently I started doing the DSP in Windows and unfortunately I hear a tiny static noice which im sure is coming from the less then ideal DACs from my mITX motherboard. Id like to lower the gain since i use about 15% volume in Windows. However I cant find which resistor to adjust from the spec or the internet. Does anyone know which one it is? I assume its two resistors per board, one for each channel?
Thanks in advance!
Im using the blue version of this board from Yuan Jing in an active setup for a pair bookshelf speaker. Ive been using it succesfully for over a year now and it sounds great. Recently I started doing the DSP in Windows and unfortunately I hear a tiny static noice which im sure is coming from the less then ideal DACs from my mITX motherboard. Id like to lower the gain since i use about 15% volume in Windows. However I cant find which resistor to adjust from the spec or the internet. Does anyone know which one it is? I assume its two resistors per board, one for each channel?
Thanks in advance!
Thank you! I found it now and removed the 100K and changed the 20K to 4.6K (should be 5.8K for 20 dB but 4.6K was all i had at home).
However I can still use maximum 20% in Windows. Why is the gain on these 26 dB to begin with??
My speakers are not abnormally easy to drive 85.5 dB.. Could i lower R1 even more or will it be unstable?
I'm using this amp:
TPA3116 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Board 12V-24V Power | eBay
and recently added a Bluetooth receiver:
LN-BT02 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Board Wireless Stereo Sound Module For Car
to the setup. The receiver has the facility to add a line input; it then prioritises BT and falls back to line input in the absence of a BT connection. Works beautifully, no noise. However, if I remove the line input, which is now superfluous, I get a hum from the speakers.
Since there is no ground connection anywhere in this setup, can I try to establish a ground connection to see if it cures the hum, or is there another reason for the hum? If I establish a ground connection, where should I connect to on the BT board? I was considering connecting to the common pin on the line input.
Edit: Before introducing the BT board, I would get the same hum when I left the amplifier on and powered off the source (laptop).
TPA3116 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Board 12V-24V Power | eBay
and recently added a Bluetooth receiver:
LN-BT02 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Board Wireless Stereo Sound Module For Car
to the setup. The receiver has the facility to add a line input; it then prioritises BT and falls back to line input in the absence of a BT connection. Works beautifully, no noise. However, if I remove the line input, which is now superfluous, I get a hum from the speakers.
Since there is no ground connection anywhere in this setup, can I try to establish a ground connection to see if it cures the hum, or is there another reason for the hum? If I establish a ground connection, where should I connect to on the BT board? I was considering connecting to the common pin on the line input.
Edit: Before introducing the BT board, I would get the same hum when I left the amplifier on and powered off the source (laptop).
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