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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116D2 Amp
TPA3116D2 Amp
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Old 15th September 2020, 07:01 AM   #11651
jasonhanjk is offline jasonhanjk  Malaysia
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Singapore and Malaysia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hofmann View Post
While prying off the heatsink I ripped an smd capacitor off.
The capacitor connects to ground on one side and through a 100k resistor to pin 2 and 3 on the other.

I believe it must be C58 in the datasheet schematic. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed so?
Can safely ignore it.
Maybe you will hear power on pop.
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Old 16th September 2020, 03:48 AM   #11652
king4joy is offline king4joy  Hong Kong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FauxFrench View Post
Sorry for the late reply.

Thankyou for the schematic, it is NEVER too late, my friend.


Do I connect the speakers to the same board the same ?


Can I use the schematic on my T amp ( TA 2024 ) ?
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Old 16th September 2020, 04:12 AM   #11653
king4joy is offline king4joy  Hong Kong
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by FauxFrench View Post
Sorry for the late reply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trileru View Post
Sorry I just realized, if you have this type of inductor:



on the amp you wish to buy, then it's pretty simple to remove with a soldering iron, and it's also pretty simple to modify, especially if you have a larger value and wish a lower value. just take out some turns.

You could math it out, and one extra/less turn shouldn't matter as long as you plan to shoot for anywhere between 10-15uH.

I thought your amp has the enclosed inductor type.

If you want to diy audio stuff you should really get at least something like this:

LCR-T4 ESR Meter Transistor Tester Diode Triode Capacitance SCR Inductance | eBay
Helps alot with measuring parts. It's not precise but it's better than nothing. Should be good enough to tell you if your inductor is 10uH or 20uH for example. That way you can take out turns and measure and see when you get close to 10uH.



The Tester is a very good idea, I wish I have known about it say 20 years ago. I will get one now for sure.


When I am shopping for 10 uH chokes, I come across two 10 uH chokes with difference number of turns, from the same supplier :


10 uH, 5 uH loaded, RDC 5 m ohm, IAC 10 A, diameter of wire 1.3mm x 12 turns (at only USD$0.3 each + shipping)



and
10 uH, RDC 17 m ohm, IAC 9A, diameter of wire 1.2 mm x 32 turns. ( at US$0.6 each)



The supplier says the difference in the number of turns is because of difference material is used for the cores.


Which choke should we pick for our application ?


Without considering the material used, I would pick the cheaper one, for a shorter signal path, and a lower RDC.
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Old 16th September 2020, 04:18 AM   #11654
king4joy is offline king4joy  Hong Kong
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And according to the AWG chart, a 1.3 mm diameter wire, a 16AWG wire, is rated only at 3.7 A, and not 10A as claimed by the choke supplier.


Is it good enough for our application please ?
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Old 16th September 2020, 06:55 AM   #11655
Trileru is offline Trileru  Romania
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at 17mOhm at 3.5A you have a voltage drop of about 0.06V and about 0.2W dissipated as heat.

I say get whichever you want, it's the same thing if they have the same value. You don't know what their Isat is, and judging by the first one specs, I'd say that 5uH loaded means an Isat is low. Maybe the more expensive one has a better core. Dunno, without complete specs it's hard to judge.
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Old 16th September 2020, 08:02 PM   #11656
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by king4joy View Post
Thankyou for the schematic, it is NEVER too late, my friend.

Do I connect the speakers to the same board the same ?

Can I use the schematic on my T amp ( TA 2024 ) ?
You need to connect two dummy power resistors (proposed 6 Ohm) at the two regular speaker outputs when you use the headphone.

This headphone schematic can be used on any class D amplifier with BTL output and a single supply voltage. The voltage rating of the 220uF capacitors needs to be at least the supply voltage. For TA2024, you can use 16V or higher.
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Old 16th September 2020, 11:06 PM   #11657
Kyrk is offline Kyrk  Greece
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Location: Athens
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvervest View Post
While this is a popular module, the components are cheap and often broken/faulty. Those 50k pots are dirty from the factory and need to be replaced, and most of the filter caps on the output will be out of spec.

I've made a video covering the previous revision (without BT) but nearly the same design showing how poor quality they are, and I'm in the process of trying to figure out why the L/R channel have a high-pass filter removing all low frequency, regardless of the "ALL-FREQ/NORMAL" switch position that seems to do nothing.
Hey mate sorry for the late reply. In your video you dont test the main volume/powerswitch pot. Is that a 50k pot as well because i really need to change replace mine but i cant seem to find a suitable replacement on the net. I can find the exact same stereo 50k pots and a 10k pot with a switch. Would you recon that the pots you can find in online retailers are the same as the ones on the board or maybe the ones on the board are some clones?( ALPS RK09712100AV 2 Ways Potentiometer 50k 20% - Audiophonics Potentiometer ALPS RK09 10k 2 way + Switch 3A - Audiophonics) 20% tolerance doesnt seem great. I would have used another pot but i cannot find any with an integrated switch
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Old 21st September 2020, 08:44 AM   #11658
jemraid is offline jemraid  United Kingdom
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TPA3116D2 Amp
Thought for the day, after reading stuff like you need 100 Watts etc!!

"Watts all dis den"

One big con trick by the manufacturers - errrr no sorry two, and a bit

No 1,

Loudspeaker classification by efficiency you might see 86 db with I watt at 1 metre (mine and pretty poor) you might see 92 db very efficient.

The 'fall off' by distance is measured in an anechoic chamber, the equivalent of a large field with no wind and no ambient sound. The reflections in most rooms will mean that there is very little fall if any at all. There is an Android app called Sound Meter which is very good indeed and reacts to sound levels at 0.4 secs. There are iPhone/iPad apps they are not so fast. Give it a try with a good volume on your speakers you will get an average of something in the region of 75 to 80 db.

No 2

For each increase of volume that our ears can hear we need a 3 db increase, a 3 db increase needs double the power from an amplifier. Ohhhhhhh sounds really nasty and the manufacturers play up to this one till the (cash) cows come home.

Worst case scenario 86 db speakers

at 1 watt = 86 db
at 2 watts = 89 db Not very good for your ears
at 4 watts = 92 db Even worse
at 8 watts = 95 db Dangerous

Lets say you got 80 db average in your room

at 1 watt = 86 db
at 1/2 watt = 83 db
at 1/4 watt - 80 db

Please do find out what the efficiency of your various speakers are and have a little work out. You'll probably find that you are listing to 1/4 to 1/2 watt most of the time.

No 2.1
Ohhh but you need a lot of power for transients, no you don't a 1/2 way decent amplifier will easily go to twice its output level.

No 2.2
Its slowly becoming apparent that the best power supplies are switch mode ones, really fast and able to put out power that people dreamed of only a few years ago, even the cheap ones £10.00! sound better than the usual but slow transformer and loads of huge capacitors.

Such is life. There's no such thing as a pastime where one doesn't see con tricks thrown at all the unsuspecting and gullible.

Cheers - J
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Old 21st September 2020, 10:00 PM   #11659
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Hi Jem,

Clever words and a very useful repetition of the relationship between amplifier power and speaker sound-level.

Humans are naive and intelligent PR-people take advantage of that.
The average man focuses on looks (subjective), price (relevant), output power (rarely relevant) and eventually THD-values (somewhat relevant) when buying audio gear. When buying a car, the important parameters are appearance (“gueule” in French), top-speed and acceleration though the two last are of little use above the basic market segment. For wine and whiskey, the age and name.
Females are not much different. When it comes to personal decoration, the attention it will bring and prestige is important.
The PR-men/women turn a sometimes complex choice into a few parameters they can manipulate. And, we fall for their dubious efforts.

My full support to that for most use the output power is not important (fully sufficient). It is just that today we can get a lot of Watts for little money. What I find is important is sound quality but choosing according to sound quality requires a solid effort from me. It is much easier with Watts.
A PBTL coupled TPA3116 can deliver some 100W in about 3 Ohm. Higher load impedances and the power is less. 100W, but so what? Try to find a speaker with a 3 Ohm impedance.

If we as humans acted rationally instead, the world would look different. Our irrational behavior is the basis for an enormous choice but also the environmental problems we now face.
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Old 22nd September 2020, 08:09 AM   #11660
king4joy is offline king4joy  Hong Kong
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My next DIY project is try my best to marry a beautiful pianist.
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