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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116D2 Amp
TPA3116D2 Amp
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Old 15th October 2019, 03:30 PM   #11241
Kyrk is offline Kyrk  Greece
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Athens
Quote:
Originally Posted by phofman View Post
Very likely there are outlets in Greece with old PC equipment where a class II notebook adapter (i.e. 2 pins) will be for next to nothing...
I am not sure what you mean.
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Old 15th October 2019, 07:26 PM   #11242
phofman is online now phofman  Czech Republic
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Location: Pilsen
Ground loops are by far the most common problem with connecting desktop PCs to audio equipment. New posts about ground loops problems pop up constantly.

So you need to eliminate the ground loop. IMO the easiest and most reliable thing in this case is to use an insulation class II power adapter for your amp Appliance classes - Wikipedia which does not use the protection earth wire (which creates the ground loop in your case).

USB soundcard may not help, if the ground of the USB output on the motherboard is still far away from the PSU terminal and the board carries large currents in the return section used by the USB ground. It is often the case.

Any older notebook adapter will do, provided it has enough power. In my project I measured the TPA3116 distortion and powered with 20V, the distortion started rising at 2x18W/8ohm. IMO 60W for your 3ch setup will suffice, 90W would be better. I am sure if you search shops with used PC/old junk in Greece, you will find such an adapter for almost free. Otherwise buy from ebay from Europe, e.g. Genuine Original 2-Power 19.5V 4.61A 90W AC Power Supply Charger Adapter PSU | eBay
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Old 16th October 2019, 05:23 PM   #11243
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northern germany
You are right, ar 40 Euros this sound card is not worth it. I got one for 12 Euros inc. P&P.
I needed something driven by a laptop with linear response and a 5 Volt microphone input + an optical output, which it does very well. For loudspeaker measurements there is not really much sense in anything sampling more than 48kHz.

Concerning the passive transformer. Ask you self what you want: You want to have no DC to keep noise away. Any audio device will have a roll off at two sides of the spectrum, if it is not DC coupled. So there will be, maybe -3dB at 20 Hz and 20 kHz. Now ask yourself again, what does your sound system deliver? Be honest, sub 40 Hz is not realistic. If you have a roll off, just push the bass up a notch and you compensated for this. What negative effects do you think, has a reversed phase? Just a tipp: The music does not play backwards.
In this forum the stupid talk is filtered out a bit, other forums are lead by the most stupid talkers...

In the end, you have to try your self. The Dynavox will work, change the sound subjectively a little, as you never will be able to do a perfectly leveled A/B comparison.
In a blind test some will like the transformer "sound" even better, just like some like tubes in the audio chain.

PS Ah, China. No I just yesterday got some stuff, perfectly in time. I mentioned that you have to plan in advance, a little, as the transfer times may vary. Like at our homes, there are quick and slow working company´s.

Last edited by Turbowatch2; 16th October 2019 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 17th October 2019, 03:01 PM   #11244
Kyrk is offline Kyrk  Greece
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Athens
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbowatch2 View Post
You are right, ar 40 Euros this sound card is not worth it. I got one for 12 Euros inc. P&P.
I needed something driven by a laptop with linear response and a 5 Volt microphone input + an optical output, which it does very well. For loudspeaker measurements there is not really much sense in anything sampling more than 48kHz.

Concerning the passive transformer. Ask you self what you want: You want to have no DC to keep noise away. Any audio device will have a roll off at two sides of the spectrum, if it is not DC coupled. So there will be, maybe -3dB at 20 Hz and 20 kHz. Now ask yourself again, what does your sound system deliver? Be honest, sub 40 Hz is not realistic. If you have a roll off, just push the bass up a notch and you compensated for this. What negative effects do you think, has a reversed phase? Just a tipp: The music does not play backwards.
In this forum the stupid talk is filtered out a bit, other forums are lead by the most stupid talkers...

In the end, you have to try your self. The Dynavox will work, change the sound subjectively a little, as you never will be able to do a perfectly leveled A/B comparison.
In a blind test some will like the transformer "sound" even better, just like some like tubes in the audio chain.

PS Ah, China. No I just yesterday got some stuff, perfectly in time. I mentioned that you have to plan in advance, a little, as the transfer times may vary. Like at our homes, there are quick and slow working company´s.
Thank you for your help. I decided to first check them with a Bluetooth adapter if the latency isn't bad i guess i will stay with that, otherwise i will order the dynavox isolator.
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Old 25th October 2019, 06:55 PM   #11245
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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Join Date: Jul 2016
I just received one of the 2.1 boards with variable frequency control, identical to this one:

TPA3116 2.1 50Wx2+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super Bass Speaker | eBay

It was very well packed and arrived in perfect physical condition. However, there seems to be a fault with the bass volume potentiometer. Looking at the amplifier from the front. the bass volume pot is second from left. When I rotate this pot anticlockwise to decrease the bass volume, it does not reduce the bass output to nil - it is still very audible with the bass volume pot at 0%. If I then rotate the pot clockwise, bass volume will increase as expected, until the pot is at about 50%, when the bass cuts out completely. If I continue rotating the pot clockwise, I will get bass output again at about 80% of the pot's full rotation, although the output/volume is much lower than at 50%. This output will increase until the pot is at 100% clockwise rotation.
Is the potientiometer dodgy or is the fault elsewhere? I'm waiting for an answer from the seller but I don't expect too much. If it's just the pot then I'll happily swop it out.
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Old 25th October 2019, 07:29 PM   #11246
mcdull is offline mcdull  United States
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikthegreek View Post
I just received one of the 2.1 boards with variable frequency control, identical to this one:

TPA3116 2.1 50Wx2+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super Bass Speaker | eBay

It was very well packed and arrived in perfect physical condition. However, there seems to be a fault with the bass volume potentiometer. Looking at the amplifier from the front. the bass volume pot is second from left. When I rotate this pot anticlockwise to decrease the bass volume, it does not reduce the bass output to nil - it is still very audible with the bass volume pot at 0%. If I then rotate the pot clockwise, bass volume will increase as expected, until the pot is at about 50%, when the bass cuts out completely. If I continue rotating the pot clockwise, I will get bass output again at about 80% of the pot's full rotation, although the output/volume is much lower than at 50%. This output will increase until the pot is at 100% clockwise rotation.
Is the potientiometer dodgy or is the fault elsewhere? I'm waiting for an answer from the seller but I don't expect too much. If it's just the pot then I'll happily swop it out.
I used to have this board but one channel failed on 2nd day (I took a video of the problem, full refund from seller) but I'm using 2 similar boards (one with BT, one without) with newer layout which have the big capacitor on the other side and the pot function placements are different, they are working flawlessly.

I don't remember I have the problem like what you have, and definitely not the ones I'm using. When the LR pot is at 0, I can still hear very very tiny sound from front speakers, I think probably same for the bass pot, but since I'm using passive subwoofer, don't think it's enough to drive it. Volumes increase as expected when turning clockwise.

Last edited by mcdull; 25th October 2019 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 25th October 2019, 07:41 PM   #11247
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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I've noticed the slight variation in layouts of these boards (apart from the BT function), seems there are at least two different manufacturers, maybe three. The tidiest looking seem to be those that are sold under the Ayima brand.
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Old 26th October 2019, 04:49 PM   #11248
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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Join Date: Jul 2016
As per post #11245, I pirated a similar potentiometer from one of my other amps and the new amp now works as expected.

My only concern is that some of the components are really hot - I haven't played the amp anywhere near its capacity and the six square components at the rear of the board (chokes?) are hot, with the two components nearest to the large capacitor being too hot to touch for more than a second. Ambient temp is about 23C, component temp is 61C. Is this a normal condition for these particular boards? Amp is powered by a 24v SMPS that I have used for ages on other TPA3116 boards..
Edit:Just tested with 19v laptop brick, same temps experienced.

Last edited by erikthegreek; 26th October 2019 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Extra info
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Old 27th October 2019, 08:51 AM   #11249
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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Join Date: Jul 2016
The potentiometer that I replaced, showing corrosion/poor connections. Plus a photo identifying the components that seem to be getting overly warm.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1819.jpg (671.3 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1801[1].jpg (742.2 KB, 158 views)
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Old 27th October 2019, 09:26 AM   #11250
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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Do you have loudspeakers connected? Ohms of the sub?
These amps should stay cold as far as I know.
Mismatch of load or oscillation.
Maybe someone else who has this board can comment?
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