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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116D2 Amp
TPA3116D2 Amp
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Old 21st July 2019, 06:54 AM   #11091
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiten View Post
Hi, fauxfrench, doctormord
My supply voltage written on powersupply as well as measured is 18.5 V, 3.5 A (Laptop power supply) Speaker Impedance is 8 Ohms.
Dont know if DC resistance measurement is meant for me; but I measured it with no power and disconnected speakers. On 200k DMM setting it is 157k on one channel and other channel shows open.

Hi Hiten,

18.5V/3.5A is fine - not near the maximum voltage and not near the minimum voltage.
8 Ohm is also fine.
Generally, if you feed an amplifier board with a supply voltage around the middle of its voltage range, connect speakers of higher impedance (8 Ohm is fine) and without input signal, the fault indicator (the blinking LED) should not be activated. If it is anyway activated, it is very likely that the board has a fault.
A board fault is not easy to repair for a "newbie" because most of the components are very small.

What you can do and seem already to have started, is to measure (without supply power) the impedance from all four output terminals (one at a time) to power supply ground ("-") and to power supply "+". Any impedance below 100 Ohm is an indication of a defect chip. Changing the chip is not easy.
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Old 21st July 2019, 09:32 AM   #11092
enio nery is offline enio nery  Philippines
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: San Fernando, Pampanga
Quote:
Originally Posted by FauxFrench View Post
Hi Hiten,

18.5V/3.5A is fine - not near the maximum voltage and not near the minimum voltage.
8 Ohm is also fine.
Generally, if you feed an amplifier board with a supply voltage around the middle of its voltage range, connect speakers of higher impedance (8 Ohm is fine) and without input signal, the fault indicator (the blinking LED) should not be activated. If it is anyway activated, it is very likely that the board has a fault.
A board fault is not easy to repair for a "newbie" because most of the components are very small.

What you can do and seem already to have started, is to measure (without supply power) the impedance from all four output terminals (one at a time) to power supply ground ("-") and to power supply "+". Any impedance below 100 Ohm is an indication of a defect chip. Changing the chip is not easy.
I thought that blue LED is the power indicator. Lol
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Old 21st July 2019, 10:15 AM   #11093
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by enio nery View Post
I thought that blue LED is the power indicator. Lol
Without knowing the exact design of that board, often the "power LED" is connected to a status pin of the chip. As the status is normally "all fine", the LED is normally ON and we see it as a mere power LED.
If it is a true power LED just connected to the power supply lines and it starts blinking, then the power supply line is repeatedly shorted with the frequency of the blinking. It is possible with such a hick-up situation but then I am quite certain the chip is burned.
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Old 22nd July 2019, 05:08 AM   #11094
Hiten is offline Hiten  India
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: India
Quote:
Originally Posted by FauxFrench View Post
What you can do and seem already to have started, is to measure (without supply power) the impedance from all four output terminals (one at a time) to power supply ground ("-") and to power supply "+". Any impedance below 100 Ohm is an indication of a defect chip. Changing the chip is not easy.
Yes I can solder but replacing tiny chip is difficult. So I will leave it as is.
Thanks and regards
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Old 22nd July 2019, 07:18 AM   #11095
goodguys is offline goodguys  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Hi. Does anyone have an opinion on this board (see attachment), have you tried it for sound quality, how does it compare with rival tpa3116 boards. It has been mentioned on this thread but no feedback.

Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wima.jpg (113.2 KB, 265 views)
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Old 22nd July 2019, 08:04 AM   #11096
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodguys View Post
Hi. Does anyone have an opinion on this board (see attachment), have you tried it for sound quality, how does it compare with rival tpa3116 boards. It has been mentioned on this thread but no feedback.

Thanks
You are right, it would be nice with someone who has experience with this board (I do not).
Looks nice but I have two less appreciating comments:
The heatsinks seems to be glued to the TPA3116 chips and the power line decoupling capacitors are 2x680uF which is little for a PBTL-coupled amplifier (for low impedance loads).
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Old 22nd July 2019, 12:34 PM   #11097
basreflex is offline basreflex  Spain
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Join Date: Oct 2007
there are boards out there with wrong component values in the feedback network creating instability. it's somewhere on this forum
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Old 25th July 2019, 05:53 AM   #11098
goodguys is offline goodguys  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Feb 2011
I am liking the lack of components in the signal path, perhaps giving a cleaner sound.
If purchasing this would you be tempted to remove the board componenets and replace with genuine.
I am also looking at the lm3886 and similarly it has very few components to get in the way of the signal, but the cost of the populated board on ebay is impossble for me to duplicate, it makes me wonder if the components are genuine.
Have you ever thought about that, stripping down to the bare board and re-populating yourself with higher quality resistors, caps, genuine ic's etc. Is this a considration or am i just being paranoid.

Thanks
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Old 31st July 2019, 09:51 AM   #11099
hansueli is offline hansueli  Switzerland
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Join Date: Oct 2017
He guys


I'm back. I had always the same stops at high volume. I just soldred 4 10000uF caps and yet no problem.



I think my powerbank has to high impedance :-(


Powerbank is 4P5S Panasonic CGR18650 2250mAh so its 18V 9Ah. Thins one I had two pieces :-D



I had another powerbank with Panasonic NCR18650 2900mAh with bigger 11.6Ah capacitance.
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Old 31st July 2019, 04:36 PM   #11100
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The mountains, calm and quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hansueli View Post
He guys
I'm back. I had always the same stops at high volume. I just soldred 4 10000uF caps and yet no problem.
I think my powerbank has to high impedance :-(
Powerbank is 4P5S Panasonic CGR18650 2250mAh so its 18V 9Ah. Thins one I had two pieces :-D
I had another powerbank with Panasonic NCR18650 2900mAh with bigger 11.6Ah capacitance.

So, with the 4x10000uF caps in parallel with the batteries, it works?
I recall someone, perhaps Turbowatch, mentioning that batteries have a delay in providing current. Perhaps this is just evidence of such an effect in batteries.
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