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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116D2 Amp
TPA3116D2 Amp
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Old 15th November 2018, 09:18 PM   #10741
voltwide is offline voltwide  Ireland
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if you measure the output at the speaker terminals behind the LC-output filter there is little switching signal remaining so a regular DVM should do.

And obviously your DVM works correct at the working channel.

One output is hi, the other low. So I would assume there is some DC-error signal at one or both inputs.

Perhaps a faulty coupling cap. Are there MLCC coupling caps? If so, replace this crap by film caps.

Last edited by voltwide; 15th November 2018 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 15th November 2018, 09:29 PM   #10742
FauxFrench is online now FauxFrench  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltwide View Post
if you measure the output at the speaker terminals behind the LC-output filter there is little switching signal remaining so a regular DVM should do.

The problem of using the ordinary LC output filter is that a load is needed to dampen the filter and avoid over-voltage. As the outputs appear to have an important DC component between them, the outputs will be overloaded by the DC current and the undisturbed values cannot be measured.
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Old 15th November 2018, 09:40 PM   #10743
voltwide is offline voltwide  Ireland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FauxFrench View Post
The problem of using the ordinary LC output filter is that a load is needed to dampen the filter and avoid over-voltage. As the outputs appear to have an important DC component between them, the outputs will be overloaded by the DC current and the undisturbed values cannot be measured.
If this was the problem, an 5~10R dummy resistor should do the trick.
In case of DC overheating the resistor, put in series a film cap 1uF - now you have a damping snubber.
Anyway, the symptoms described lead me to a DC input error.

Last edited by voltwide; 15th November 2018 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 15th November 2018, 09:53 PM   #10744
FauxFrench is online now FauxFrench  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltwide View Post
If this was the problem, an 5~10R dummy resistor should do the trick. Anyway, the symptoms described lead me to a DC input error.
True, a dummy resistor would do the trick but also pull the outputs with the DC offset.

The DC input error is a logical assumption.
Situation: Both the stereo and PBTL sub-channel used to work. Then, the stereo TPA3116 chip on the same board was modified from stereo setup to PBTL configuration and worked. This modification of the other chip left this sub-channel chip to malfunction. Is there a link or are we just unfortunate that another fault appeared at the same time? A bit tricky with a board owner having only moderate diagnostic tools.
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Old 15th November 2018, 10:15 PM   #10745
voltwide is offline voltwide  Ireland
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I assume some fault done by the user. Maybe some MLCC was mistreated and cracked? Some solder blob shorting IC-pins? There are myriades of possibilities....
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Old 15th November 2018, 10:44 PM   #10746
FauxFrench is online now FauxFrench  France
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Originally Posted by voltwide View Post
I assume some fault done by the user. Maybe some MLCC was mistreated and cracked? Some solder blob shorting IC-pins? There are myriades of possibilities....

You are terribly right. This is why I try to find a reference configuration from where we understand the measurements and can progress by adding functionality.
Very cooperative owner and precise in response. Just not a lot of tools. We will give it a try.
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Old 19th November 2018, 06:38 PM   #10747
Nenola is offline Nenola  Finland
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I recently had a reason to get me one of those TPA3116 2.1 boards. From the few choices I ended up with the one with most adjustments:

TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W 721968958942 | eBay

First test with a 19v laptop PSU wasn't very promising, there was hiss and buzz from every channel. The buzz disappeared almost completely when I touched the heatsink. After that I assembled the amp in an aluminium enclosure, hoping to get rid of some interference.

The hiss from main channels disappears when I turn the treble pot clockwise. But after that the buzz gets louder... not good.

The amp is connected to my pc via FX-AUDIO DAC-X6, first using the usb connection. I could pretty much hear every single thing that happens inside my computer. Tried to get rid of that with optical connection, but no good. The interference has to come from the mains network, because I also get sounds from my speakers when the freezer in the same room starts up. The freezer has safety earth, but the PSU doesn't.

I will try to get this working, so next steps are:
1. Test with another PSU
2. Test with other sources and computer without the DAC between

Any tips on the amp itself? Should I try to make some grounding between the board and the enclosure? I don't have any pcb stands in there at the moment, they would probably make some connection between them? At the moment the only connection is from the pots.
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Old 19th November 2018, 11:44 PM   #10748
jfetter is offline jfetter  United States
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The output z of that laptop supply will not give kick-drum bass.
I use the tpa3118 mono boards and mount a few inches from MeanWell 24v 100W supply.
The little boards sound unbelievable, bass like a subwoofer.
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