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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

TPA3116D2 Amp
TPA3116D2 Amp
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Old 16th February 2018, 09:43 PM   #10281
taita is offline taita  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millstonemike View Post
The Nenola has a point. You can only input two signals into this board as the sub channel is combined from the L-R inputs.
Then this board doesn't suit me. I need three unfiltered channels. Too bad, the output filter looks really nice and is scarce in this type of board.
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Old 17th February 2018, 02:00 AM   #10282
millstonemike is offline millstonemike  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taita View Post
Then this board doesn't suit me. I need three unfiltered channels. Too bad, the output filter looks really nice and is scarce in this type of board.
Your in rough waters. There's very few 3 channel amps. And combining three digital mono amps in close proximity is prone to inter-amp interference (switching frequency). To do that, you need to mod the boards to use the master and slaves option and run a clocking link from the maser to the slaves. There is a a nice, compact mono Sanwu TPA3118 1 x 60 W board for USD$5 each. But I haven't modded it to advise.
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Old 17th February 2018, 07:18 AM   #10283
taita is offline taita  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millstonemike View Post
Your in rough waters. There's very few 3 channel amps. And combining three digital mono amps in close proximity is prone to inter-amp interference (switching frequency). To do that, you need to mod the boards to use the master and slaves option and run a clocking link from the maser to the slaves. There is a a nice, compact mono Sanwu TPA3118 1 x 60 W board for USD$5 each. But I haven't modded it to advise.
Yes, I agree mono amps should be a better solution in my case. Many of these amps are available for even lower prices. But I rather buy boards for a few euro's more I don't have to mod. Any advise on this?
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Old 17th February 2018, 10:52 AM   #10284
millstonemike is offline millstonemike  United States
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There's some possibilities ... but need more info.

What type of power are you looking for? 8 ohm or 4 ohm drivers? Will the amp be separate or are you building two active speakers with an amp embedded in each?
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Old 17th February 2018, 01:26 PM   #10285
taita is offline taita  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millstonemike View Post
There's some possibilities ... but need more info.

What type of power are you looking for? 8 ohm or 4 ohm drivers? Will the amp be separate or are you building two active speakers with an amp embedded in each?
The amplifiers will be used in an active system and are used for mid and tweeter. So 50 W for mid and 25 W for tweeter should be sufficient. For the woofer I already have Hypex UCD 400. My intention is to integrate the amplifiers with the speakers. The streamer/active system is at a central position.

Which frequency should I use to determine the impedance of the speakers, the minimum, average or maximum? The minimum is somewhere around 5-6 ohm. Options for power supply are 0-24V and -35-0+35V

Last edited by taita; 17th February 2018 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 17th February 2018, 01:47 PM   #10286
millstonemike is offline millstonemike  United States
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That's easier. You only need two channels, one for the mid and one for the tweeter as you have a separate amp for the woofer. You 5-6 Ohm minimum impedance implies nominal 8 ohm woofers. At 24 volts, you can get 33 W rms into a 8 ohm driver regardless of amp rating. If you had a 4 ohm mid, that would increase to 65 W rms with a 24 V PS. There are a myriad of 2 channel TPA3116 class D amp boards that will do that.
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Old 18th February 2018, 05:00 PM   #10287
dak20 is offline dak20  Kazakhstan
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Hi guys. I'll take this.

Free ship Assembled HIFI digital power amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 high power board 12 24V subwoofer bass board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

But this cuts satellites from 100 hertz, how to draw from 150-200 hertz. Someone had experience with this? Show me the picture that I need to change to make 150 Hertz?
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Old 21st February 2018, 04:36 PM   #10288
FX1 is offline FX1
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I have two of these and both failed, now one channel, later the two, and the same with the input DC. I found that the failure is produced by the tracks of the PCB. All connections failed. I put a wire bridge from the positive DC to diode and connected the output of speakers directly from the output of the capacitors under the PCB. Doing all that the amp is functioning and at a very high degree of performance. The sound is very good and no hiss nor hum (proved in different speakers from 4 to 8 Ohms without modifications). I use an SMPS of 24V 15A and no interference at all.

Also, no click at on like you say.

So, surely the problem isn't in the input side of audio, is on input DC and is on output of speakers. The two amps that I have did the same.

I know that it's two years later but if this can help other to repair this amps ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by jwicaksana View Post
I bought the red dual chip board and the right channel didn't work.
2X100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V 24V for Arduino | eBay
There is a faint click upon turn on and the left channel does that but there's nothing on the right. I tried switching speakers and it's the same. If it is bad connector, most likely the right channel would be noisy or something like that. But this is nothing at all. Could it be the pot, female 3.5mm socket, or the chip itself?
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Old 27th February 2018, 10:51 PM   #10289
Think is offline Think  Netherlands
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TPA3116D2 Amp
Quote:
Originally Posted by dak20 View Post
Hi guys. I'll take this.

Free ship Assembled HIFI digital power amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 high power board 12 24V subwoofer bass board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

But this cuts satellites from 100 hertz, how to draw from 150-200 hertz. Someone had experience with this? Show me the picture that I need to change to make 150 Hertz?
I have 2 of these boards and they are great. I noticed that the board in your link is missing the full range/ 100hz (?) HP filter switch for the tops.

Where did you find / how do you know that is cuts at 100hz and why would you like to change it? If your tops are not producing much down 150/200hz (like mine) a bit more overlap in the 100-200hz is not a real problem. The 100hz cut keeps the top drivers from reaching xmas for the low frequencies wel enough for most speakers. It would have been nicer if it would have been variable as well; but for the money........... I paid a little less on ebay.
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Last edited by Think; 27th February 2018 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 27th February 2018, 11:48 PM   #10290
Think is offline Think  Netherlands
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TPA3116D2 Amp
Quote:
Originally Posted by KTomi View Post
Ok, It will not be a problem that these ICs will not be synchronized?
I don't know what the problem would be as they are seperate amps.

Does any see a problem with using 2 class D boards for tops and sub?
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