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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#1 |
diyAudio Member
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As it seems, what I posted on Class D photogallery tickeled someone's curiosity.
Left picture: the original Final Amplifier Densen B-3xx + Other pictures: my Densenclone Made with: - an IKEA LACK shelf - amplifier board TA2024 ( Ebay ) - Switching Power Supply 12 V – 5A ( Ebay ) - blue LED and connectors More information in next post. Ciao. Luca P.S.: latest evolution at page 2 Last edited by scigu63; 5th June 2016 at 01:36 PM. Reason: more explaining title |
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#2 |
diyAudio Member
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And here is the building information:
1) dig the shelf. It’s enough to take off the first piece of plywood ( less than 1 inch ) by making 4 holes with a drill at the corners of the rectangle you want to take off, then cut from one hole to the other with a handsaw 2) Take out the folded paper that fills the inside, it’s easy using the handsaw 3) Connect by screws the PSU and amp to a wooden board, with some holes on bottom to let cooling air to go around . If you are interested in using more powerful stuffs, then it’s better to use an aluminum sheet, better for cooling and thinner than wood, so the useful space is larger 4) Connect the base and the connector strip using a piece of L aluminum profile 5) Put wires and a LED with a R ( 820 ohm if with 12V PSU ) Tips: 1) While working, protect the edges of the shelf with paper tape ( see picture ), to avoid hurts and dents 2) Mind the height: the base board + the components must be less than 4.3 cm ( 1.7 “ ) Components: You can use more powerful PSU, external also if you like, and more performing amps than TA2024 ( e.g. the TK2050 board ) of course. The only limits are the space, specially the height, and the cooling. You can put a potentiometer, too, to have an integrated amp, but in my opinion it would be less “charming”. Much better put that in an other case, the same of the amp, of course, as a passive preamp. Thanks for your kind attention and ciao. Luca |
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#3 |
diyAudio Member
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brilliant!! very good looking
Is there any ventilation for the PSU? I know its not used hard for that amp board but it must get warm
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I collect projects - building them is another hobby altogether |
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
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No ventilation at the moment.
After a 4 hour straight use, the case over the PSU is only slightly warm. But in order to be sure, I'm going to drill some holes under the PSU, in the wood base and the case. Ciao. Luca |
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
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flip the board with the amp, power supply and rear connections upside down.
Then drill big (2cm) holes where the psu fan is and around the empty spaces in the case. Add some small stick on rubber feet of for about 5mm clearance and it should be fine All in all a great looking little amp - great thinking!
__________________
I collect projects - building them is another hobby altogether |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
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Here is the new version, with aluminum sheet base and holes on bottom, to help coooling the amp, when using more powerful devices.
Ciao. Luca |
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Esbjerg, westcoast of Jutland, Denmark
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Cool
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#8 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North West
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Nice idea. Proper cheap DIY.
Lack shelf just £5 in the UK, and also available in black or green. Apparently. ![]() |
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#9 |
diyAudio Member
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As I wrote, here is the passive preamp to be connected to the power amp.
The potentiometer is the very good DACT Type stepped attenuator 2 x 20 Kohm; the case follows the same minimalist philosophy of the project. I think the pictures are quite self explaining. Ciao a tutti. Luca |
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#10 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Nice and tasteful, Luca !!
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thanks ![]() Blaue Leuchtdioden machen blöd. (hb)
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