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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
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Old 11th October 2019, 01:02 PM   #2441
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it

Not sure what your question is. What you have should work but you probably have too many PSU’s. Unless you were planning on running them full power. The problem with multiple amps is sometimes they have a modulation frequency interference and hence need to be in master/slave mode with frequency connection.

Clicking you have sounds like maybe one of the psu’s is cycling on/off? Or a bad PSU. What amps are you using?

I would use separate power supplies on all of them unless you plan on using frequency master/slave option. That will reduce interference. Sketch you have should work but make sure you use star topology for ground - not bus topology.

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Old 12th October 2019, 12:48 AM   #2442
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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Most cheap D-amp modules have a diode in the + supply line, this should help against most SMPS problems and make it possible to use multiple modules with one power supply. I have not seen the master/ slave configuration as an option at any cheap board. Even some TI engineers advice to ignore it.

Active speaker usually use 70% power for bass and the remaining 30% for mid/high.
Also the low amp may disturb the higher frequency. So giving them two power supplies, if you have three of them, seems the best idea.

These "click´s" may have their cause in some part of your chain. The usual way is to take components away and look what happens.
Most of the D-amps safety devices switch on and off until the fault is removed. This may be short cut, low voltage or DC somewhere. You got to search for it.
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Old 14th October 2019, 05:57 PM   #2443
kieranFM is offline kieranFM
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Thank you Turbowatch and XRK! I found the cause of the clicking sound, it was the 12V wallwart I had for testing, the laptop bricks were all okay, even when the music is not playing there's no hum/click at all. I connected the midrange pair and the tweeter pair to 1 brick and 1 brick for each of the woofer boards. Finally was able to test paxor with this setup, it was really awesome. The boards were able to drive the 10inch woofers without any problems, although the brick for the midrange and tweeter is warmer than the 2 for the woofers. Is that okay, in the long run? I mean I thought it would be the bricks for the woofer that would be pushing out more. I switched the bricks and it's the same. It's not really hot though, just warm to the touch. I had them run the whole afternoon and then the evening yesterday and played around with the crossover. I didn't do any mods to the boards yet, as of now I really like the way they sound. This weekend I'll mod a spare pair of boards just to compare.

Thanks again!
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Old 14th October 2019, 06:32 PM   #2444
irribeo is offline irribeo  Netherlands
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Might be related, maybe not. When powered on without signal, the ampboards run warmer than when playing music. In a three way tri-amp (3 times 3118) speaker the tweeter amplifier here gets warmer than both mid and bass amps, playing music. Crossed-over, filtered before signal goes to 3118 amps.
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Old 14th October 2019, 08:55 PM   #2445
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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The tweeter/ mid amp running hotter than one would expect, to me seems quite normal. Any amp has a basic consumption, and very low power signals are generated much less efficient than high moves of the bass cone. Look at the datasheet of your amp-IC.
In general, if something gets so hot you do not like to touch it, increase the heat sink or air flow. Warm is quite OK.

Personally I prefer active loudspeakers over passive ones, first because of quality, second about lower costs if you go high end, compared to passive x-overs.
On the other side, the concept of cramping electronics in the loudspeaker cabinet is not a very smart idea.
Marketing mostly failed to sell such construction for HIFI.

In my set up the speaker is build to perform acoustically, while the amp has it´s own, purpose build housing.
The active sub woofer, while accepted with HIFI and HT users, is not the best technical solution, as electronics strongly dislike vibrations. Maybe the WAF play´s an important role in this case, as the "he" may only be allowed to carry one part into the house at a time?
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