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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
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Old 29th July 2019, 03:15 PM   #2421
availlyrics is offline availlyrics  India
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khron View Post
...Separating the grounds as you say will only be achievable through cutting traces on the boards, i hope you're aware of that. Plus that none of the outputs are grounded anyway - perhaps you meant power grounds.
Yes , I meant power ground.

Quote:
....I'm powering a pair of those little boards out of the same 19V laptop brick (albeit the amp boards themselves are "on" the speakers, so physically separated), and all the noise i can hear out of them is some background hiss, with my ear right up against them... .
I powered it with 2 bricks & then 1 brick, but could'nt tell any audible differences.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 15th September 2019, 04:00 AM   #2422
1152 is offline 1152  United States
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Is there any way to add/replace the bass on the stereo tpa3118 boards? Otherwise, the sound is excellent. The wattage doesn’t seem anywhere near 30w/channel with 24v 3A power brick and efficient 4R speakers, but it’s loud enough. Just miss the bass. My Lepai LP2020TI+ amp is louder with much more bass with only the stock 12v supply.
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Old 15th September 2019, 02:22 PM   #2423
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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For class D amplifiers, the output power depends on the supply voltage and the speaker impedance. A TPA3118 with 24V supply can deliver more output than a TPA2020 with 12V supply. The reason why you experience less power from the TPA3118 is most likely that the gain of the TPA3118 is less than that of the TA2020 and you accordingly have less output power though the TPA3118 could do more with more input signal.

You can always add a sub-amplifier. A sub-amplifier is nothing more than a mono amplifier with a low frequency band-pass filter at the input.
The mono amplifier can be based on a chip of the same type or a different type than the chip(s) used for the stereo amplifier.

Last edited by FauxFrench; 15th September 2019 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 19th September 2019, 07:23 PM   #2424
Think is offline Think  Netherlands
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Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
Little pbtl board with balanced input: (US $3.84)
Click the image to open in full size.

Anyone tried it?
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Old 3rd October 2019, 10:46 AM   #2425
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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I'm using three mono TPA3118 boards to achieve 2.1 sound. Noise floor is high, causing a hiss. I see the recommendation is to remove R27 to bring the level down to 20dB, which I think will be adequate. I'm not convinced that I can remove the SMD component without damaging the board/traces/other components, so I'm wondering if I can rather put a 4k7 resistor across the inputs? If so, what would the resultant level be?

Also allied to this, I have ganged all three of the mute connections on these boards to one SPST toggle switch. It works as expected but I'm wondering if this is a smart move since I recall someone with a similar setup posting here that used three switches - ie one for each board.
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Old 3rd October 2019, 02:35 PM   #2426
Khron is offline Khron  Finland
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I have an arguably "barbaric" method for removing SMD components, but it works pretty damn well.

Step one - add some solder to each end of the (passive) component in question
Step two - grab a pair of tweezers in your non-main hand
Step three - maneuver your soldering iron in such a way that the (side of) the tip lays flat on top of the component, and the solder-wetted area of the tip reaches both blobs on the ends of the component in question
Step four - when the solder on both ends of the component is molten, grab it with the tweezers (even "through" the solder) and remove it.

Cleaning the solder off the remaining pads is optional, but welcome. You'll also wanna check that you haven't created any solder-bridges during the procedure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by erikthegreek View Post
I'm using three mono TPA3118 boards to achieve 2.1 sound. Noise floor is high, causing a hiss. I see the recommendation is to remove R27 to bring the level down to 20dB, which I think will be adequate. I'm not convinced that I can remove the SMD component without damaging the board/traces/other components, so I'm wondering if I can rather put a 4k7 resistor across the inputs? If so, what would the resultant level be?

Also allied to this, I have ganged all three of the mute connections on these boards to one SPST toggle switch. It works as expected but I'm wondering if this is a smart move since I recall someone with a similar setup posting here that used three switches - ie one for each board.
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Old 3rd October 2019, 11:18 PM   #2427
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikthegreek View Post
I'm using three mono TPA3118 boards to achieve 2.1 sound. Noise floor is high, causing a hiss. I see the recommendation is to remove R27 to bring the level down to 20dB, which I think will be adequate. I'm not convinced that I can remove the SMD component without damaging the board/traces/other components, so I'm wondering if I can rather put a 4k7 resistor across the inputs? If so, what would the resultant level be?

Also allied to this, I have ganged all three of the mute connections on these boards to one SPST toggle switch. It works as expected but I'm wondering if this is a smart move since I recall someone with a similar setup posting here that used three switches - ie one for each board.
Hi Erik,
I am not sure if 4K7 across the input of the TPA3118 boards will work as well as the 4K7 on the output of the volume potentiometer used on the TPA3116 boards. The reason is that on the TPA3118 boards the 4K7 will be before the input signal coupling capacitors while on the TPA3116 board they were after the input coupling capacitors, as far as I remember.

Removing an SMD resistor with a soldering iron is much easier than placing an SMD resistor. I use a method similar to Krohn:
Use the fine tip on the soldering iron. Put some solder on the two terminal ends of the resistor you want to remove such that the solder form small balls. Clean the soldering iron tip. Place the soldering iron tip on one end of the resistor, in contact with the solder ball, and push toward the body of the resistor. Then, move the soldering iron tip to the opposite end of the resistor and push toward the body of the resistor from that end. Move the tip from one end to the other end of the resistor more times such that the solder on both ends melt. After a while, also the glue that held the resistor in place during wave-soldering will give in and the resistor starts moving. Most often the small SMD resistor will stick to the tip of the soldering iron due to the surface tension of the solder. That’s it!

Last edited by FauxFrench; 3rd October 2019 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 4th October 2019, 05:36 AM   #2428
erikthegreek is offline erikthegreek
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Thanks to Khron and FauxFrench for this info - I'm happy with the procedure after reading this. I'm mostly concerned about collateral damage, as the tip on the smallest soldering iron I have still looks massive against the components. I've had a good look with some magnification and it looks doable, so I'll get to it this weekend.

As a matter of interest, what temperature can these SMD components typically withstand before being damaged?
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Old 4th October 2019, 06:52 AM   #2429
grahamgraham is offline grahamgraham  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikthegreek View Post
Thanks to Khron and FauxFrench for this info - I'm happy with the procedure after reading this. I'm mostly concerned about collateral damage, as the tip on the smallest soldering iron I have still looks massive against the components. I've had a good look with some magnification and it looks doable, so I'll get to it this weekend.

As a matter of interest, what temperature can these SMD components typically withstand before being damaged?
Do you have an old board that is faulty or something like that to practice on? I'm sure you will have some sort of electronic item knocking about that is disposable that you can take apart!
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Old 4th October 2019, 07:38 AM   #2430
FauxFrench is offline FauxFrench  France
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Originally Posted by erikthegreek View Post
................ I've had a good look with some magnification and it looks doable, so I'll get to it this weekend.

As a matter of interest, what temperature can these SMD components typically withstand before being damaged?

Practicing on a defect board is a very good idea.

Your concern in this case is to get the resistor off without damage to the PCB tracks and pads. The resistor will be lost because it is so small. Most components can stand some 200 degrees Celsius but it depends on the type of component. SMD components are not intended to be reused.
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