Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it

And the diode drops 1.5V from that 24V so ~22.5V to chip/4caps ? I don't remember clearly? The popping and protection tripping was something I encountered whenever I wanted, with speakers dropping to close to 1 ohm impedance I used then :) The little Sanwu could play much much louder (measured in volts to speakers) than the most expensive mono boards I had. Popping of smd filmcaps, I used to replace the ceramics too, filmsmd are not the best caps when handsoldering on ampboards LOL very fragile. (and expensive). The Allo big 3118 board (volt+ I think) has also some of those film caps, but machine soldered surely and not the Rubycons but only the ones that are available from Panasonic(for budget reasons). But even Allo on their first small board Volt had electrolytic 35V capacitors, foil said Panasonic FR, the vent showed they were never made by Panasonic, but just got another plastic wrap. This is most common chinese faking, millions/billions of capacitors are rebranded with foils and a hairdryer :)
 
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The common dual tpa3116 Bluetooth 5.0 boards had this thing where you could not replace the onboard caps without a fatal result. I eventually moved on to just adding more caps to the supply, off-board.

Haven’t had that happen in years of doing that to lots of other equipment.

They have been working fine for years, powered on constantly however.

Cheap unknown stuff= maintain lower voltages also. First of things that’ll be compromised are the caps.
 
The first series of tpa3116/18 ampboards performed best with voltages below 21.6V if I remember correctly, those were 2ch boards, and large, with large distances from decoupling caps to pins, large distances from ground to ground, but on 2 layer pcb's. Some later ampboards might be on 4 layer pcb's, with weak vias replacing through hole parts on those 4 layer boards might mean they never work again?