I'm a little confused on this. The Sure site states the input sensitivity as 0.771 V. That is the required input voltage to drive it to full output and most home audio equipment should put that out. Is the issue the input impedance of 22 K? If driven by a device with a high output impedance the amps input could be loading that down too much so that the input voltage actually drops.What are you driving the amp with?
If the above is correct then the gain of the amp is not the issue, but the somewhat high input impedance. If that is the case then a buffer with very high output impedance might be required.
Rod
If the above is correct then the gain of the amp is not the issue, but the somewhat high input impedance. If that is the case then a buffer with very high output impedance might be required.
Rod
It's being run off an M-audio audiophile USB from my pc. With the PC turned up to full and the m-audio turned up to full running some bose 4 ohm pc style speakers I'm getting a fairly normal listening volume, definitely by no means loud.
I asked sure the same question and their response was that I needed a 400w power supply, amazes me how clueless they are there, I'm definitely getting NO WHERE near 100w a channel out of it, my old 20wpc @ 4 ohm went much much louder.
Can't find the output impedance of the m-audio anywhere
I asked sure the same question and their response was that I needed a 400w power supply, amazes me how clueless they are there, I'm definitely getting NO WHERE near 100w a channel out of it, my old 20wpc @ 4 ohm went much much louder.
Can't find the output impedance of the m-audio anywhere
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I misspoke - Should have said "If the above is correct then the gain of the amp is not the issue, but the somewhat LOW input impedance. If that is the case then a buffer with very LOW output impedance might be required.
Rod
quick bump to this as I don't want to start another thread.
My version isn't a shure, is an ebay thing claiming to use a TK2050 but it isn't as loud as it should be.
setup is a 12 volt battery going to a voltage booster outputting 30 volts
the odd thing is I can turn it up to full volume (on the MP3 player putting sound into it) and adjust the input voltage from 12 to 30 volts and there is no discernible change in volume, wtf? might try burning it in for a while.
My version isn't a shure, is an ebay thing claiming to use a TK2050 but it isn't as loud as it should be.
setup is a 12 volt battery going to a voltage booster outputting 30 volts
the odd thing is I can turn it up to full volume (on the MP3 player putting sound into it) and adjust the input voltage from 12 to 30 volts and there is no discernible change in volume, wtf? might try burning it in for a while.
Thanks for the reply Mike, much appreciated.
none that I could find, there are two potentiometers but I worked out they are for adjusting DC offset.
That makes sense I guess, a pre-amp would be ideal as having to use the volume control on the MP3/whatever player is annoying. I have one of these (or a clone of it) based on a TA2024 and it seems just as loud and a bit less noisy, probably has a rudimentary preamp of some kind.
Dayton Audio DTA-2 Class T Digital Audio Amplifier Module
Do you have a link to the headphone amp you used? I'm sure 24 volts will give all the juice I need, but can easily tap into the 12 volt side if that will work.
I'll hook up my PC or something else to confirm it will work as I expect, then buy more bits to make it work.
none that I could find, there are two potentiometers but I worked out they are for adjusting DC offset.
That makes sense I guess, a pre-amp would be ideal as having to use the volume control on the MP3/whatever player is annoying. I have one of these (or a clone of it) based on a TA2024 and it seems just as loud and a bit less noisy, probably has a rudimentary preamp of some kind.
Dayton Audio DTA-2 Class T Digital Audio Amplifier Module
Do you have a link to the headphone amp you used? I'm sure 24 volts will give all the juice I need, but can easily tap into the 12 volt side if that will work.
I'll hook up my PC or something else to confirm it will work as I expect, then buy more bits to make it work.
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Here's a link to the Sure pre-amp.
Sure Electronics AA-AB32261 Stereo 2 x 150mW Class AB LM4881 Headphone Amplifier Board
Here's a link to the TPA3116 2.1 board I'm working with. The ".1" subwoofer portion of the board has all the "pre-amp" components for summing the stereo signal and providing the low pass filter. I've reverse engineered that portion of the board. That may allow you to modify the board to suit your needs.
12V 50WX2 100W TPA3116D2 2 1 HiFi Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Verst Board | eBay
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