New TK2050 board

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Could you help me buy some switching power amplifiers or conversion from Taobao

Thanks, I know it doesn't look pretty, but I didn't know that this would cause not optimal sound. Has the cap taken damage from this?



I bought it from taobao.com which is the chinese ebay equivalent, but difficult to use if you're not in China. I asked the seller if he also sells on ebay, he said no. I could maybe help to send out of china if someone is eager to try this board, but I got the last one, he is sold out until next month. Price was about the same as the sure board.


Could you help me buy some switching power amplifiers or conversion from Taobao.com.

and my chinese is quite poor, and find this Taobao Agent site: www.buychina.com; how about it? or can you help me shop some from Taobao directly. and contact me in email. thanks!
 
I have a question about the T4... can anyone suggest/hyperlink to an option for this "Power down interface to switch or controller: It can be remotely switched off from compatible preamp or controller"?

Also, if I run two T4s will I also need two 500R SMPS?

Hi, you can find 'power down' connector on board as showed below. Shorting the connector or input a low level TTL signal will power down the amp, and left it open or input high level TTL signal means normal.
You'd better use 2x SMPS. But that depend on how many power you need from amps.
 

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Hi all,

I just built a pair of Overnight Sensations to use on my desk (i.e. nearfield). They are currently powered by a Pioneer Elite A-35R. But I'm looking for something physically smaller. My original plan was to use the Dayton DTA-100a, but as they are currently back-ordered, I went looking for alternatives.

That's what brought me to this thread, of which I read (or at least skimmed :)) in its entirety.

Anyway: just had a couple questions before I pull the trigger: if I get the Hifimediy T2 amp board plus the SMPS300R 28V 110V power supply, all I need to do is wire the two and I'm ready to go, right? In other words, do I need to adjust anything on the PS or amp board?

I ask because on the page for the T2 SE STA510A MUNDORF MCAP, it says "We recommend 38V psu turned down to 34-35VDC". How does one turn down the voltage on these Connex PSUs? Can't decide if I want to go with the "upgraded" T2 or not.

Are those ALPS pots on the T2?

Leaning towards this GD-Audio GDCH-05 chassis. Looks like at least one other person in this thread used the same case---do you happen to remember what height PCB standoff you used to make the pot line up correctly?

Any thoughts on T1 versus T2 in terms of sound quality? I know the T1 is recommended for 8ohm loads (which my speakers are), but the T2 is cheaper, and 50 Watts should be more than enough for nearfield listening. (The Pioneer is 45W, and I barely have it turned up.)

Any other thoughts/suggestions? FWIW, I have a Cambridge Audio DacMagic sitting between the computer and the amp. I tried using my Class D Audio SDS-470 for this purpose, but it's ridiculously overpowered (600 Watts @ 8 ohms).
 
Hi all,

I just built a pair of Overnight Sensations to use on my desk (i.e. nearfield). They are currently powered by a Pioneer Elite A-35R. But I'm looking for something physically smaller. My original plan was to use the Dayton DTA-100a, but as they are currently back-ordered, I went looking for alternatives.

That's what brought me to this thread, of which I read (or at least skimmed :)) in its entirety.

Anyway: just had a couple questions before I pull the trigger: if I get the Hifimediy T2 amp board plus the SMPS300R 28V 110V power supply, all I need to do is wire the two and I'm ready to go, right? In other words, do I need to adjust anything on the PS or amp board?

I ask because on the page for the T2 SE STA510A MUNDORF MCAP, it says "We recommend 38V psu turned down to 34-35VDC". How does one turn down the voltage on these Connex PSUs? Can't decide if I want to go with the "upgraded" T2 or not.

Are those ALPS pots on the T2?

Leaning towards this GD-Audio GDCH-05 chassis. Looks like at least one other person in this thread used the same case---do you happen to remember what height PCB standoff you used to make the pot line up correctly?

Any thoughts on T1 versus T2 in terms of sound quality? I know the T1 is recommended for 8ohm loads (which my speakers are), but the T2 is cheaper, and 50 Watts should be more than enough for nearfield listening. (The Pioneer is 45W, and I barely have it turned up.)

Any other thoughts/suggestions? FWIW, I have a Cambridge Audio DacMagic sitting between the computer and the amp. I tried using my Class D Audio SDS-470 for this purpose, but it's ridiculously overpowered (600 Watts @ 8 ohms).

The dayton is an out-of-the-box working solution. It seems to be due on 8/2, in 2 weeks. I doubt you can get your hifimediy aplifier before then, due to shipping time.

How do the overnight sensations sound?
 
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The dayton is an out-of-the-box working solution. It seems to be due on 8/2, in 2 weeks. I doubt you can get your hifimediy aplifier before then, due to shipping time.

True, but after reading this thread, I'm now wanting more power and/or higher sound/build quality rather than quick delivery. :)

As far as out-of-the-box solutions, what about the Topping TP-22? Or the Muse DT-50? Both are about the same cost as the Dayton, but look to be higher quality.

How do the overnight sensations sound?

Good but not great. I say that because when I first tested them out, I literally put them on top of my Salk Songtowers, and moved the cables from the STs to the Overnight Sensations. No contest. But then again, that's a comparison to floor standing speakers costing 15x as much. So my expectations were/are a little out of whack. But with them on my desk, they sound pretty good. Noticeably better with the overpowered SDS-470 compared to the Pioneer.
 
Hi, you can find 'power down' connector on board as showed below. Shorting the connector or input a low level TTL signal will power down the amp, and left it open or input high level TTL signal means normal.
You'd better use 2x SMPS. But that depend on how many power you need from amps.

I want to use 2 x T4 to run 3 channels only (LCR). Can the second T4 only run the one channel ok? Would one 800W SMPS do the job?
 
Hey hifimediy and other experts.
I have broken already two Hifimediy T1 TK2050 STA510-amps the same manner. Only modification I have done on the amp is to increase the gain by switching input resistors R2 and R3 from 22kOhm to 56kOhm. Both amplifiers have broken after use of 15-20hours. Looking at the two boards i noticed that resistor B1 has burned and the STA510 soldertags.

Any clue what has gone wrong? Is the gain increase too big? I use a sony MP3-player as a sound source. Could short circuiting the mp3 input cause this, because i noticed that my wirings have been quite bad and this could possibly have happened. Another cause could be that it has overheated since i play it quite loud and the amp is in a 20x15cm box with ventilation holes size of a fingertip. My power source is a lithium ion battery with voltage range of 24-33V.

Here is a photo of the burned resistor.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/20120811_180853.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hey hifimediy and other experts.
I have broken two Hifimediy T1 TK2050 STA510-amps the same way. Only modification I have done on the amp is to increase the gain by switching input resistors R2 and R3 values from 22kOhm to 56kOhm. Both amplifiers have broken after use of 15-20hours. Looking at the board i noticed that resistor B1 has burned and the STA510 soldertags.

Any clue what has gone wrong? Is the gain increase too big? I use a sony MP3-player as a sound source. Could short circuiting the mp3 input cause this, because i noticed that my wirings have been quite bad and this could possibly have happened. Another cause could be that it has overheated since i play it quite loud and the amp is in a 20x15cm box with ventilation holes size of a fingertip.

Here is a photo of the burned resistor.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/20120811_180853.jpg
B1 is a beam between signal ground and power Ground. Strange that it burned :scratch: Hifimediy may have some ideas...

You have increased gain a lot !
The input gain is set by R2/R1 (and R3/R5), all identical (20K on T1 schematic). The full gain is also impacted by other resistors. By memory, the full gain of T1 is set to 15 V/V by default, consistent with a power supply voltage at about 30Vdc.

You have set input gain to 56/22= 2.5 ! I can't tell if this is why your amps burned, but it's definitively not a good thing to do. Chips can become unstable (oscillate) if gain is too high.

The tk2050 input sensitivity is about 4Vpp (1.5Vrms). A typical mp3 player plays at about 1Vrms max. I would not exceed R2=33K (33/22=1.5) and carefully check stability and temperature when increasing volume, step by step.
 
B1 is a beam between signal ground and power Ground. Strange that it burned :scratch: Hifimediy may have some ideas...

You have increased gain a lot !
The input gain is set by R2/R1 (and R3/R5), all identical (20K on T1 schematic). The full gain is also impacted by other resistors. By memory, the full gain of T1 is set to 15 V/V by default, consistent with a power supply voltage at about 30Vdc.

You have set input gain to 56/22= 2.5 ! I can't tell if this is why your amps burned, but it's definitively not a good thing to do. Chips can become unstable (oscillate) if gain is too high.

The tk2050 input sensitivity is about 4Vpp (1.5Vrms). A typical mp3 player plays at about 1Vrms max. I would not exceed R2=33K (33/22=1.5) and carefully check stability and temperature when increasing volume, step by step.
It might be that the gain is too high. I have a T2 amp running now for a year without problems with two of the input resistors with a value of 47kOhm. I used 56kOhm because thats what i found easily from my locker. If i remember correct hifimediy said that 47kOhm is ok. But the stock 20-22kOhm is definately too low for my ghettoblaster use.
 
It might be that the gain is too high. I have a T2 amp running now for a year without problems with two of the input resistors with a value of 47kOhm. I used 56kOhm because thats what i found easily from my locker. If i remember correct hifimediy said that 47kOhm is ok. But the stock 20-22kOhm is definately too low for my ghettoblaster use.
it's hard to tell not knowing the level. There is no benefit to set gain higher than necessary. It's worth investigating the max output level of your sources :)
 
I came across while surfing the net, as your do on a Sunday afternoon, and discovered bass shakers. This got my mind thinking about using the spare channel on my T4 amplifier to output to a bass shaker. So, two channels would be LR and the other two would be centre and bass shaker. Here's the catch... my centre speaker is 8ohms and the bass shaker is 4ohms. I only need 50W for the bass shaker so power isn't an issue, but having two different ohms speakers might. Thoughts anyone?
 
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