Wow, I didn't think about this
I don't even know if the Meanwell makes noise, or some bzzzzzzz, etc but it's a good idea, with just the 230 VAC linked to the chassis ? So that I can plug it on my wall ?
Very good idea
And so the Meanwell's 25 KHz would maybe hurt our ears ?
By the way I see 234 K hours for MTBF for the Meanwells ?
(this is 65 years / 10 hours per day)
Will be enough for me
Regards,
Try it
You should try it and let us know how it compares. It is very cheap and easy to hook up. Connexelectronics also sells a nice truepath. Bigger, more expensive, sounds as good? with much more power and better efficiency.
I totally agree on a bit of headroom is nice, but with toroids many have reported better sound with larger than needed transformers, maybe due to less temperature change due to higher gauge coil wire? (there might be other explanations that I am not equipped to discuss
).With SMPS oversizing can make less sense as there can be too many caps in the PSU and it will be less efficient when almost idling (what is the normal power usage at avg. listening levels anyway? 10 watts from my 2024 amp into ~82dB speakers go along way).
In my oppinion a 150-200watt SMPS with higher switching frequency to keep away form the audio band and charger caps faster and high PSU efficiency (= low electrical bill and less heat development) would be preferable and I'm still certain that is plenty of power for audio application.
Each to his own though
I have no reference to a better way to calculate and the 1/10th thumb rule I picked up somewhere on this forum. It fits nicely with reality though
I am sure you're not throwing away sound when you use a smaller PSU. If the 12% efficiency loss is what causes the psu to start the fan when I am listening to a movie then I would mind
. It depends on the fan rpm vs watt profile how annoying it would be.The enermax fan is not running as being made for higher power loads = larger watt range with no or little fan movement. A fan doesn't draw 8-15 watts anyway, most are around 0,11A @ 12v = 1,3watt at max rpm.
Your sure 2050 board draws around 10 watts at loud levels then...?
Wow, I didn't think about this
I don't even know if the Meanwell makes noise, or some bzzzzzzz, etc but it's a good idea, with just the 230 VAC linked to the chassis ? So that I can plug it on my wall ?
Very good idea
And so the Meanwell's 25 KHz would maybe hurt our ears ?
By the way I see 234 K hours for MTBF for the Meanwells ?
(this is 65 years / 10 hours per day)
Will be enough for me
Regards,
If placed in the same case I would shield the PSU from the amp and wires. When switching that close to the audioband you can occasionally both hear switching noise from the PSU and the amp can be polluted by it if the PSU is not shielded properly (many SMPS bricks buzz when put to the ear and PCs are inherently prone to noise in the audio band although every frequence is way out of audio band in theory).
Same case
My amps use giant (by surface mount standards) axial foil caps with flying leads throughout the input coupling and output filter and sit right on top of the MeanWell S-350-36 on a piece of cardboard. There is nothing like noise in the sound. Only deep transparency and explosive micro dynamics like no AB amp I have ever heard. These MeanWells are SWEET! for $40.
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So what power supply do you want us to use?
My amps use giant (by surface mount standards) axial foil caps with flying leads throughout the input coupling and output filter and sit right on top of the MeanWell S-350-36 on a piece of cardboard. There is nothing like noise in the sound. Only deep transparency and explosive micro dynamics like no AB amp I have ever heard. These MeanWells are SWEET! for $40.
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So what power supply do you want us to use?
You seem to be kind of missing the point. This is not battle of the PSUs to be right or wrong. You use what ever PSU fits your wallet, your ears and whatever else criteria you have set up. I am merely tossing out ideas for others to comment on.
I would personally look for a PSU with the specs previously mentioned, among others the S-320 (nice link and kind of the point of my comments... to see if others has comments or nice finds on the web).
I would settle for less watts and gain higher switching frequency and smaller physical dimension, knowing that the PSU also runs better when properly matched to the load.
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I gotta try both styles of supply and see what sounds best to me. I hear lots of good stuff about Meanwells but have one amplfier designer/manufacturer friend that has great sounding ICE amps that he uses more of a ClassA style linear supply for that are to die for and another manufacturer friend saying exactly the same thing and then again you guys are crazy for Meanwell. So, its cheap enough to try the Meanwell and if its not my cup of tea it is still a great supply for testing!
Uriah
Uriah
Power Supply Overkill
I though this might be amusing at this point in the discussion of power supply overkill. Here is a photo of my new Big Dac Board running the dac section on a 100 Amp/Hour battery.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/137976-experience-diy-dac.html
I though this might be amusing at this point in the discussion of power supply overkill. Here is a photo of my new Big Dac Board running the dac section on a 100 Amp/Hour battery.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/137976-experience-diy-dac.html
Attachments
I assume that the power rating for the TP2050 chip - e.g., 2x50w or 1x100w - represents a theoretical maximum rather than a fixed constant. Has anyone tried pushing one of these amps to the limit - that is, low impedance speakers, high volume, and demanding music - and measuring the power output?
It would be nice to have some quantitative data to support qualitative claims of sound quality using different power sources.
Relay control
That is the speaker protection IC to control the relay for turn on delay to eliminate the pop. The DC protection is not utilized as it is a bit trickier to implement with the bridged output but it could be modded to do so.
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That is the speaker protection IC to control the relay for turn on delay to eliminate the pop. The DC protection is not utilized as it is a bit trickier to implement with the bridged output but it could be modded to do so.
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A small relay plus photocoupler circuit is used for DC protection now. Or any one have better idea?
Hi Tripath Master Hifimediy,
I see that the T3 is meanwhile at ebay listed.
Regarding Powersupply I am a bit confused which one is best to use. Reading item description one smps alone makes a bit noise. Taking 2 pieces should be the solution.
I never tried a tripath with a torroidal transformer. Is this board recommended to supply it with a torroidal transformer ? On the other hand a smps is mostly recommended here to supply your other boards like tk2050 V2.
I see that the T3 is meanwhile at ebay listed.
Regarding Powersupply I am a bit confused which one is best to use. Reading item description one smps alone makes a bit noise. Taking 2 pieces should be the solution.
I never tried a tripath with a torroidal transformer. Is this board recommended to supply it with a torroidal transformer ? On the other hand a smps is mostly recommended here to supply your other boards like tk2050 V2.
The torroidal vs smps discussions should be the same for the T3 vs the other tk2050 boards. I haven't tried torroidal myself with any of the tk2050 boards.
The two channel power supply board should be good suited with a torroid, while for smps it would be better to use the new mono psu board to avoid any potentional noise.
off topic (DAC)
Is one DC supply enought when only running the DAC part of this board? What voltage?
Hi Scott, are you running direct out of DAC chip mod on this? which dac chip is it? I have a very similar red DAC board , and mine makes some strange noise when I haven't connected any digital input.
Is one DC supply enought when only running the DAC part of this board? What voltage?
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