I'm using a 12V line from an ATX PSU (I already had it powering my miniDSP2x8).
A better PSU may yield less noise, and my construction technique is probably not the best.
I'm actually quite happy with the T1-M. With the L-pad I can quite comfortably listen nearfield (~1 - 1.5m) and hear no hiss at all. Most people's listening positions are going to be further away than that, and the L-pad may not be necessary.
A better PSU may yield less noise, and my construction technique is probably not the best.
I'm actually quite happy with the T1-M. With the L-pad I can quite comfortably listen nearfield (~1 - 1.5m) and hear no hiss at all. Most people's listening positions are going to be further away than that, and the L-pad may not be necessary.
Hi everyone,
I would be interested in setting up an amp based on a T3S. I intend to buy the smps from hifimediy along with the card. What version should I take? Can the 300w one be enough? Or should I go with the 500w one?
Also, I may also add a T3 card (I may add a center channel to my setup). Can I plug it to the same smps (if I take the 500w one for example), or will I may have some noise as when people used to setup 2 T3 cards on the same psu? If not, would there be enough power on the 500w psu for the T3S + one T3?
Thanks!
I would be interested in setting up an amp based on a T3S. I intend to buy the smps from hifimediy along with the card. What version should I take? Can the 300w one be enough? Or should I go with the 500w one?
Also, I may also add a T3 card (I may add a center channel to my setup). Can I plug it to the same smps (if I take the 500w one for example), or will I may have some noise as when people used to setup 2 T3 cards on the same psu? If not, would there be enough power on the 500w psu for the T3S + one T3?
Thanks!
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I am currently powering the CD's on my 3-way active speakers with the PE TK2050 4 channel amp and powering it with a PE 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Power Supply.
I am thinking of replacing it with a T1-M:
-Would this be considered and upgrade?
-Is the PE power supply I have correct for this board?
-I would need 2 boards as it is for LCR speakers. If the power supply is OK can I power both boards with it?
This is a budget thing and $82 shipped is within budget
.
And obviously I am a noob.
Thanks for any help
Moto
I am thinking of replacing it with a T1-M:
-Would this be considered and upgrade?
-Is the PE power supply I have correct for this board?
-I would need 2 boards as it is for LCR speakers. If the power supply is OK can I power both boards with it?
This is a budget thing and $82 shipped is within budget
.And obviously I am a noob.
Thanks for any help
Moto
I am currently powering the CD's on my 3-way active speakers with the PE TK2050 4 channel amp and powering it with a PE 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Power Supply.
I am thinking of replacing it with a T1-M:
-Would this be considered and upgrade?
-Is the PE power supply I have correct for this board?
-I would need 2 boards as it is for LCR speakers. If the power supply is OK can I power both boards with it?
This is a budget thing and $82 shipped is within budget
And obviously I am a noob.
Thanks for any help
Moto
Hello. 24V DC 14.6A is ok to make double T1-M work.
Help My Board Smoked
Hi,
I'm looking for guidance. I purchased a T1 board last year (V1.2) and power supply from Hifimediy and just got around to hooking it up. No modifications to the board. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was to connect L & R INPUTS (not outputs) together. I wouldn't think that would have any negative impact on the amp.
Anyways the amp started smoking. I immediately cut power (27VDC measured BTW). Disconnected input. Separated inputs. Turned power back on and no smoke, but the output is much lower than I would expect.
I feel like something is blown, but I have no idea where to start looking (SMT components are small even with a magnifying glass).
I read through this thread and noticed some issues with caps on the underside (page 83). I'm not sure if this could be my problem. Maybe I got one of the boards from that batch.
I was playing the amp through an 8-ohm highly efficient speaker (98db). I was expecting it to play much louder than 'bedroom level'.
Hi res pictures attached. As you can see no modifications and no glaring discolored components.
Any suggestions?
Thanks so much in advance.
Steve
Hi,
I'm looking for guidance. I purchased a T1 board last year (V1.2) and power supply from Hifimediy and just got around to hooking it up. No modifications to the board. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was to connect L & R INPUTS (not outputs) together. I wouldn't think that would have any negative impact on the amp.
Anyways the amp started smoking. I immediately cut power (27VDC measured BTW). Disconnected input. Separated inputs. Turned power back on and no smoke, but the output is much lower than I would expect.
I feel like something is blown, but I have no idea where to start looking (SMT components are small even with a magnifying glass).
I read through this thread and noticed some issues with caps on the underside (page 83). I'm not sure if this could be my problem. Maybe I got one of the boards from that batch.
I was playing the amp through an 8-ohm highly efficient speaker (98db). I was expecting it to play much louder than 'bedroom level'.
Hi res pictures attached. As you can see no modifications and no glaring discolored components.
Any suggestions?
Thanks so much in advance.
Steve
Attachments
I bought a Meanwell clone a year ago to power a T2 amp. The ebay description even used the Meanwell performance graphs, but at £27 delivered to the U.K. I knew it was a clone.
When it arrived I opened it up to inspect it as I have seen some really dodgy soldering jobs on cheap ATX computer supplies, but it looked pretty clean so I hooked it up.
Yesterday on powering it up there was a loud pop and a flash and that was the end of my MW clone. I have no idea what happened but the IEC input fuse blew and inside the unit one of the large capacitors seems to have either bulged and shorted to the case or blown as a result of the fault.
I am sure there are Chinese manufacturers that make excellent SMPS and I will be replacing my clone with a Connexelectronic supply, but if you can afford it, buy something with a known pedigree. At the time I couldn't afford a better supply, took the risk and paid for it.
Attachments
Hi, I'm sorry for that.
If you can power on without smoke now, I suggest first to check the power supply ( main DC supply after relay or on the 2x big FC caps, and 5V power supply from the SMT chip U5) if you can.
This situation happened to me too, with T4! But in 1 second I cut the power and I cannot listen to any modification in sound. I accidentally shorted LR channels on the pot...and some smoke came out from something between heatsink and output terminals, if I remember well. These amps cannot definitely work as mono amp.
Hi, guys
I have two t1 boards (I am making an emerald physics cs3 inspired system), and I seems I have a problem. I have been able to set the DC offset to ~0mV on three of the four channels.
On the last one the minimal offset I am able to set by turning the pot all the way counterclockwise is 65mV. That seems too much.
Anybody had the same problem?
Thnx, Lovro
I have two t1 boards (I am making an emerald physics cs3 inspired system), and I seems I have a problem. I have been able to set the DC offset to ~0mV on three of the four channels.
On the last one the minimal offset I am able to set by turning the pot all the way counterclockwise is 65mV. That seems too much.
Anybody had the same problem?
Thnx, Lovro
Hi, if the channel has no problem to play music, we can say the trimmer（R22/R23) or resistor RP1 on the bottom side is down/bad soldered.
Shorting inputs with smoke as a result sounds serious.
Please get back to us with the result from the testing.
In another question. What would the idle power for a T1 STA510A at 32V be?
I have plans to drive one with a 32V 1A regulated supply, expecting no more then about 10W channel of course. The upshot is that I can use the PSU to it's full potential without getting over 60% where class-t amps supposedly start to sound worse with volume.
Please get back to us with the result from the testing.
In another question. What would the idle power for a T1 STA510A at 32V be?
I have plans to drive one with a 32V 1A regulated supply, expecting no more then about 10W channel of course. The upshot is that I can use the PSU to it's full potential without getting over 60% where class-t amps supposedly start to sound worse with volume.
T1 sta508 version was 0.1A @24V at idle. T2 was around 0.18A if I remember correctly.
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