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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#571 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ny
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I think you may find that two S-350-48 MeanWell supplies cost less than one SE-450 anyway.
. . Quote:
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Scott |
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#572 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Paris, France
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Quote:
unfortunaltely, S series stop at 350W max. So the only advantage of a single SE-450 would be size. BTW what exactly is the "phantom noise" you mentioned ? |
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#573 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hi, guys.
Finally we found what's wrong with the T3e. If power supply is DC, it will be polarity sensitive. The + of power supply have to be connected to the right screw for control circuit use, otherwise the relay will not turn on( but no harm to amplifier or other parts). I have test it under 30~50V DC and it work good, but 36V~50V will be better for relay. |
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#574 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ny
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There are reports, and I can duplicate it, of an odd, low level noise when two separate boards are run off of one power supply. Even batteries. It is like a ground hum but higher in frequency. Some people call it a whistle. I would call it a tone. I believe it is caused by the near identical switching frequencies beating in interference and modulating the grounds. Full mono with multiple $40 S-350-48 will be the way to go with the 517b. I would probably order mine without the heatsink and give up the slim form for some more traditional stock that I already have that would mount the board right to the fins. Board and fins oriented vertically.
__________________
Scott |
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#575 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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For T3, we will prevent the noise by keeping different frequencies between boards. So We will mark the boards like : A/B/C...(which means different idle frequencie), then we can use different marking boards for multi channels.
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#576 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hi, I was working on a new 2.1 channel amplifier for days. It's DDX and input S/PDIF directly ( so it's a power DAC actually) .
As a system, I add a mcu and HID like LCM, remote receiver and rotary encoder, etc. I just think that will be another interesting project. Any ideas? ![]() |
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#577 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Looks neat how much do you think it will cost?
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#578 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Looking good.
Arjenshenzen/arjenhelder says he is working on something similar based on a ta2020 board (only without the .1 part :P) Yours looks much more powerfull though. Maybe try some smaller caps parallel instead of one big cap, it reduces the equivalent ESR. Also, placing the buffercap(s) closer to the chips might be a good idea. Will there be a separate board for the digital input? Edit: i also see 2 Vins, does this mean this board requires a symmetrical psu? As there is only one buffer cap, which cannot buffer both lines.. |
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#579 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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I don't finished the first sample, but I hope the price will be another surprise
![]() This is DDX which means no analog signal before output to speaker, which is different from TA2020(analog input itself). The digital input are all built in on board now, so the HID(human interface device) part is now separated for convenience of installation. And 2 Vins are for symmetrical AC input( half bridge circuit is used for AC-DC). If a DC power is used, single rail is enough. |
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#580 |
diyAudio Moderator
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I've used the DDX chips and like them very much.
Forum member Neil Davis knows them well. |
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