New TK2050 board

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Its getting quite expensive to use my ghettoblaster if i have to change the amp once a month. So it would be nice to know what have i done wrong.

Here is the burned chip:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/20120811_185319.jpg

All other components seem to be ok.

Hi, I'm sorry for that. There is some unknown situation when increase the gain. Could you see any chips burned? If the chips not burned, you can try to replay the bead with a short wire/ jumper.
And by the way, if you can, I think it's better idea to add a pre-amp when you find the output is not large enough.
 
I came across while surfing the net, as your do on a Sunday afternoon, and discovered bass shakers. This got my mind thinking about using the spare channel on my T4 amplifier to output to a bass shaker. So, two channels would be LR and the other two would be centre and bass shaker. Here's the catch... my centre speaker is 8ohms and the bass shaker is 4ohms. I only need 50W for the bass shaker so power isn't an issue, but having two different ohms speakers might. Thoughts anyone?

I think T4 is no problem for the center speaker, but if you want to drive 4ohm bass shaker, you'd better use lower supply voltage for safe. or if you can make sure the input signal is not too high for bass, it will be ok too. The T4 use sta516B so you can get 100W max to 4ohm, must not be more.
 
T2 @ Special Edition TC2000 + TP2050

tk3.jpg

tk1.jpg
 
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Hi folks or Hifimediy,

I dummy did not care this time for the right diode direction. The red power diode of my T2 was extended to the power switch but sadly interchanged ...:(

After main powering smps made a buzzing noise and no lights went ON. Smps seems to be O.K. but after soldered into right position the amp still not works. Is the board damaged or what else can I do ... ?? Thanks.
 
Hi folks or Hifimediy,

I dummy did not care this time for the right diode direction. The red power diode of my T2 was extended to the power switch but sadly interchanged ...:(

After main powering smps made a buzzing noise and no lights went ON. Smps seems to be O.K. but after soldered into right position the amp still not works. Is the board damaged or what else can I do ... ?? Thanks.

Hi, is "the red diode" means LED? I don't quite understand, sorry. :confused:
 
yes LED , but I have news. I tried another new T2 and this time I took care. The second T2 worked but after mounting into the chassis and connecting speaker-outs it made same problem like first T2. A buzzing noise while red LED is ON. I suspected the speaker-outs and disconnected them from amp. Indeed both amps work with a klick and speaker-relay LED (yellow) is ON. When connected the binding posts of the chassis to the T2 the noise again appears while the speaker-relay LED is OFF and red power LED is ON. It seems that I did not make a mistake with first LED. Both boards obviously work with disconnected speaker outs ...?!! I sent also an eMail to you. Thanks for your help.
 
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... anybody any suggestions, supposes ??

I made another thing. I have disconnected the speaker outs and switched the T2 ON. Power LED and speaker LED went ON with a klick noise. Fine. Then I touched one speakercable with + of left channel and instantly a small flash, klick and amp shuts down. Then again switched the T2 ON. This time I touched - of left channel. Again same thing appeared. Klick, lights OFF and amp shuts down.

Yubing it seems that both amps work without speakerconnections. If you remember I had same issue in the past with a T1. You said to me that my smps probably makes a problem.
The smps is not the problem because this time I checked up with 24 V battery and same thing happened again. Please PM or eMail. Thanks ...
 
yes LED , but I have news. I tried another new T2 and this time I took care. The second T2 worked but after mounting into the chassis and connecting speaker-outs it made same problem like first T2. A buzzing noise while red LED is ON. I suspected the speaker-outs and disconnected them from amp. Indeed both amps work with a klick and speaker-relay LED (yellow) is ON. When connected the binding posts of the chassis to the T2 the noise again appears while the speaker-relay LED is OFF and red power LED is ON. It seems that I did not make a mistake with first LED. Both boards obviously work with disconnected speaker outs ...?!! I sent also an eMail to you. Thanks for your help.

... anybody any suggestions, supposes ??

I made another thing. I have disconnected the speaker outs and switched the T2 ON. Power LED and speaker LED went ON with a klick noise. Fine. Then I touched one speakercable with + of left channel and instantly a small flash, klick and amp shuts down. Then again switched the T2 ON. This time I touched - of left channel. Again same thing appeared. Klick, lights OFF and amp shuts down.

Yubing it seems that both amps work without speakerconnections. If you remember I had same issue in the past with a T1. You said to me that my smps probably makes a problem.
The smps is not the problem because this time I checked up with 24 V battery and same thing happened again. Please PM or eMail. Thanks ...
Hi, I don't quite understand why it's fail when installed into the chassis. But I'm thinking about some possible reason. The first is that the input cable is not good connection, and then pls check the output cable(from amp to connectors), to see if any output terminal is Grounded. I suggest use a multimeter to check these upon carefully before power on, any mistake may kill the amplifier. There is also another possibility, the bottom of board touched the chassis (metal). And I also need a photo to check more if you can give:)
 
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Hi, I don't quite understand why it's fail when installed into the chassis. But I'm thinking about some possible reason. The first is that the input cable is not good connection, and then pls check the output cable(from amp to connectors), to see if any output terminal is Grounded. I suggest use a multimeter to check these upon carefully before power on, any mistake may kill the amplifier. There is also another possibility, the bottom of board touched the chassis (metal). And I also need a photo to check more if you can give:)

DarpMalone said:
Hi Dealer... Have you checked for continuity between the binding posts and the enclosure? Are you sure you they're not shorted?

Indeed you both seem to be right. This time I tried the new binding posts and probably the metal touches metal and this leads to a short-circuit. Good that there is a working speaker protection relay ;) I will check them out. Thanks ...
 
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I searched this thread but can't find any head-to-head comparison in sound between the T2 SE and T3S. I've been planning to get a HiFimeDIY amp since this thread was less than a tenth as long and I'm finally gearing up to pull the trigger. Just don't know which one. If SQ is close I'd go for the power but if the T2 SE were significantly better sounding It'll be that one.
 
I searched this thread but can't find any head-to-head comparison in sound between the T2 SE and T3S. I've been planning to get a HiFimeDIY amp since this thread was less than a tenth as long and I'm finally gearing up to pull the trigger. Just don't know which one. If SQ is close I'd go for the power but if the T2 SE were significantly better sounding It'll be that one.

Hi, I suggest choose the amp according to your need, like how many watts you need and what voltage supply you want to use.
T3S will output more power than T2 SE because it can be supplied with higher voltage. They are almost same when you use same voltage to same speaker.
 
Hi, I suggest choose the amp according to your need, like how many watts you need and what voltage supply you want to use.
T3S will output more power than T2 SE because it can be supplied with higher voltage. They are almost same when you use same voltage to same speaker.

Thanks for the help there. I think it makes more sense then to go with the T3S because you never know what I might hook it up to in the future.
 
I finally got around to putting my 3 channel amplifier together using two T4s and a SMPS800RE. The remote control switch is working really well and everything powers up nicely. BUT when everything powers up I get high pitched noise coming out the speakers. I double checked all my grounding, especially the RCA inputs and to my eyes all looks ok. I have another 2ch T4 amp with SMPS500R that works beautifully. I checked the differences between the two amps and these are:

1. I use a wooden enclosure for 2ch and metal for 3ch
2. I am using 1 SMPS to power 2 T4s in the 3ch
3. The RCA connections internally are grounded using two separate black wires that come from the potentiometer in the 2ch and in the 3ch I am using the single black to one of the RCA ground washers for front, the second T4 has red into RCA and the other white and black wire is grounded to red RCA plug.

I have been testing only the LR fronts with some spare speakers.

What other issues could I be having with the amp?
 
problem is definately in the rca stuff, you should only use the ground provided by the amplifier board, and it should connect to all of rca ground together, you can also connect the earth input to the chassis.

Do you mean the black wires (surrounding wire) for both amps are connected together? The ground washers on the RCA plugs are not connected to the chassis, but separated by a plastic washer. The black wire should be grounded but not in contact with the chassis?
 
Do you mean the black wires (surrounding wire) for both amps are connected together? The ground washers on the RCA plugs are not connected to the chassis, but separated by a plastic washer. The black wire should be grounded but not in contact with the chassis?

Or I could connect the black input wires to the grounding star that the external power and SMPS are connected too.

We are talking about the input right? yes ground both input together L and R,

But each input only connected to it's following amplifier ground input. (L and R together)

Keep them insulated from the chassis.
 
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