Topping TP10 Mk3 and Topping TP20 impressons?

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Hi all.

I recently bought a ta2020 amplifier and i thought modding it would be a nice first touch with audio.

After reading this article, i concluded that
1. adding caps to the 12V line
2. replacing possibly fake components with genuine
3. replacing components with better quality equivalents
4. adding a bigger than 220μF buffer cap

would do a noticeable change ( for the better ) to the sound.

So, i opened the case to see what is what and who is who. And i got confused. Big time.
No matter how much i look at it and try to follow the lines, i cant get it right.

Firstly, i saw those six green capacitors numbered 3 in the attached picture, right next to the b plugs. They bring ERO markings and are numbered MKT 1818 .47k63 ( fake? they don't seem to exist ). By the .47k63 i assume that they are 0.47 μF @ 63 Volts. Given the value (0.47), according to the ta2020 datasheet, four of them should be the output capacitors. Right? So what are the remaining two? The datasheet doesn't give any other caps at this value.

Then there are four caps, numbered 1, which are 470 μF at 16 volts and connected in parallel. Are these the 12V caps?

Right next to these four caps, there is another one, numbered 2, which is 220 μF at 16volts. Is that the buffer cap? And if that is indeed the buffer cap where are the input caps?

What are these two blue components (?) numbered 4?

I also saw that the ta2020 datasheet states that for 8 ohm speakers ( like the ones i have ), the output caps should be 0.22 μF. Once output caps recognized, should i change them or is it no good?

Thanks.
 

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Hi CaliCanjaros,

I'm not familiar with the board shown, but from the photo, the two marked 4 look like the input caps, probably ~ 2.2uf film caps, item 3 are part of the output filters, the others: if you say items marked 1 are in parallel they look like the 12v tank caps, you can trace the tracks to the switch / 12v power and IC pins 22, 25 and 27 to confirm. Item 2 – not sure.

Hope this helps,

cheers.. Steve
 
Hi Steve. Thanks for the fast reply.

Actually your message helped a lot. You were right. These four caps numbered 1 are the 12V line capacitors. I located them to the pins suggested. One thing that troubled me is that sometimes i get a sound from my multimeter when connecting to the +pole of the caps and ta2020's pin 32!!
The ero marked green film caps are indeed the output capacitors. Four of them are the output capacitors and two of them are the zobel caps. Apparently the four output caps are set in 0.47 μF for 4Ohm RL, but why would the zobel caps be set in the same value?
As for the two big blue caps numbered 4, i see that they are connected with the pot. The pot is connected with the rca input plugs, so i guess you are right once again. These are the input caps.

Now that i have a dim idea, i m thinking of
- changing the four 12V line caps from 470 μF @ 16V to 4*2200 @ 35V caps ( i was thinking nichicon FW. any suggestions? ) .
- Changing the six film caps to 0.22 μF caps ( four output caps set for 8ohm RL [i was thinking electrolytic instead of film ], and the two zobel to the value indicated in the datasheet )

Only thing left is to figure out what that 220 μF cap is for.

Any suggestions about which brand's caps i should choose? Any other modification? Should i go for the things i said above or have i got something wrong?

Thanks.
 
Hi Steve. Thanks for the fast reply.

Actually your message helped a lot. You were right. These four caps numbered 1 are the 12V line capacitors. I located them to the pins suggested. One thing that troubled me is that sometimes i get a sound from my multimeter when connecting to the +pole of the caps and ta2020's pin 32!!
The ero marked green film caps are indeed the output capacitors. Four of them are the output capacitors and two of them are the zobel caps. Apparently the four output caps are set in 0.47 μF for 4Ohm RL, but why would the zobel caps be set in the same value?
As for the two big blue caps numbered 4, i see that they are connected with the pot. The pot is connected with the rca input plugs, so i guess you are right once again. These are the input caps.

Now that i have a dim idea, i m thinking of
- changing the four 12V line caps from 470 μF @ 16V to 4*2200 @ 35V caps ( i was thinking nichicon FW. any suggestions? ) .
- Changing the six film caps to 0.22 μF caps ( four output caps set for 8ohm RL [i was thinking electrolytic instead of film ], and the two zobel to the value indicated in the datasheet )

Only thing left is to figure out what that 220 μF cap is for.

Any suggestions about which brand's caps i should choose? Any other modification? Should i go for the things i said above or have i got something wrong?

Thanks.

Hello again,
Item 1. the 4 x 2200 / 35v FW's - good choice, its been done before and works well.
Item 2. network caps, give it a go! but I would recommend NON-polarized caps. Please report your findings.
Item 3. the 220uf cap, again trace the tracks ans see where it leads (IC pin #)

hope this helps!

cheers.. Steve
 
I am trying to decide what kind of capacitors i will use for input and output.

Most of you suggest the use of film caps. Yet i have seen others using electrolytic bipolar and even electrolytic polarized caps ( in reverse polarity )and being satisfied with the outcome.
Does anyone know what are the pros and cons for each category? Is the use of bipolar electrolytic better than the use of film caps or vice versa? Does the use of polarized caps in reverse polarity have any downs?

Thanks.
 
Hi,
having some sensitive OB to built I was looking for a cheap amp to drive them, seems this is the one, TP20.
Why not using two as mono amp, any problem only using one channel? Good idea? As for volume control we need a preamp or such, why not, seems that you just bypass the pot. Seems they do here on the same IC:
6moons audio reviews: Trends Audio TA-10
Or is it possible just using a high quality pot in a pre-RCA box prior to amps? Or even re-route the second channel via the left RCA to the second amp? That won't be symetrical adding cable to one channel... and the cheap way is no more...

Matthieu
 
hi i just came home with the toppping tp20 mk2 and there's high frequency buzzing from both the speakers when the amp's volume is below 9o clock position. when i raise the volume the buzz disappears but the white noise remains. i thought this amp was suppose to be silent? what gives? oh the hiss is present whether the rca cables are connected or not. and also, there's same kind hiss from the power supply. perhaps that's where it's leaking from?

as for the sound, it's tad too bright for my liking. would the mods mentioned here tame the glaring high while bringing out the bass? because if only the bass is affected from modding, i'm sure the mids will sound recessed in result. overlooking this woe, the amp is certainly impressive. completely grain free, liquid, and soaring top extension, and super fast! now i see what the fuss is about. if the frequencies are balanced, this could be the perfect sound for me yet.
 
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Is it the oem supply ? Maybe you could find another adapter to try, check polarity ( in case this amp does not have any protection ). Any 12V will do, and you'll know if it's the amp or the PSU.
You may flavor the sound a bit with input caps, but I think the Zobel can be tuned down to tame the high you have. And the Zobel should be done to match each very speakers, shouldn't it?
 
haha i just string lined 3x10000uf panny tsha caps i had laying around into the power input and it's a great success. they replaced the 2x68000uf nichicons i had in previously.

bass is thick and meaty now like a vintage japanese amp.

don't let 68000uf become the limiting factor for the smoothing cap mod.
 
I just got a TP 20 MK2 can we see some pics of the mods you did to yours.
Also I have a question mine has very bad banding posts every thing else like the rca jacks is of a lot higher quality my posts have inferior threads that don't fit precisely does anyone else have this problem or is it others are just using the bananas instead. am i the only one with defective posts the amp it self sounds good no his or hum very quite. where can I get better binding posts that will fit any one try and change these from the junk it came with thats my one real gripe.

I would also like to tame the bright blue leds on the vol control any one have idea for that perhaps a resistor to make them dimer what would work best.
 
I also got my Topping TP20 Mark 2 amp today. Hooked up my sony 6 ohm 3 way speakers, I did not find the bass tight and when I increased volume to full.. there is lot of distortion. I will try to modify the AMP with the capacitors and see again, if it makes any difference.

I opened the TP 20 AMP, see two 220uF 50 V capacitors (C10, C11) near to IC, and another two 1000uf 16 V capacitor ( c23, c24). Can some one please let me know which Caps to change with what specs of capacitors.

Thank you Advance
Regards
Chandra Velaga
 
I also got my Topping TP20 Mark 2 amp today. Hooked up my sony 6 ohm 3 way speakers, I did not find the bass tight and when I increased volume to full.. there is lot of distortion. I will try to modify the AMP with the capacitors and see again, if it makes any difference.

I opened the TP 20 AMP, see two 220uF 50 V capacitors (C10, C11) near to IC, and another two 1000uf 16 V capacitor ( c23, c24). Can some one please let me know which Caps to change with what specs of capacitors.

Thank you Advance
Regards
Chandra Velaga


I am updating the photos, This PCB looks different than the ones posted in the forum. where should I connect the capacitors ?
 

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I am updating the photos, This PCB looks different than the ones posted in the forum. where should I connect the capacitors ?
You should add caps to the switch (rear connection I believe) and -ve side of the dc socket (the connection on the side of it).

I see that Arjen used 6,800uF on his mkIII board and has since changed to a 4,700uF ELNA. I expect he's been selecting size vs sound vs cost. Does anyone have thoughts on the value to be used, probably low ESR is most important (possibly the reason Arjen uses 4,700uF now). 4 x 2,200uF could be better if lower ESR.
 
I just ordered a TP20-MK2.
For the low cost, I fugured it would be s good amp to "experiment" with.
Personally, with my aging ears, the rising high end and the clean sound of the L2020 chip sounds quite good to me at lower volumes. I wiil also be using my powered sub along with my 8ohm speakers rated at 88db

I just have a couple questions. Are the speaker post really that bad considereing that one usally does not install and remove wires on an amp that often.
Also, I do have a set of standard banana plugs, willl they fit the amp?
 
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